Well my motor its finally done it's in the car Now... Fully built ls/vtec set up is: what do you guys think???

B18a block
honed,deckted,.20 over bore etc etc
LS crank micropolish,balance...
Wiseco 11.7:1 CR
Eagle rods
STR block guard
golden eagle lsvtec kit 82mm.
B16 water,oil pump
brand new seals gaskets...

B16 head
5 angle valve job P/P
Crower stage 3 cams ( do this cams idle Ok ??? )
Crower springs
Rev hard retainers
STR cam gears
JDMpasword intake mani-gasket
Skunk 2 65 mm intake mani-
ITR T.B 65 mm.
UR alt pulley
JDM 4-1 header 2 1/2
Omni power test pipe 2 1/2
Apex-i N1 exhaust

B16 tranny
Exedy stage 1 clutch kit
Exedy 9.5lbs flywheel

Mics
Aem fuel rail
B&M F.P.R
RC 310 cc injectors

What is tha tube that comes out of the T.B???

Does the vtec selenoid has a ground wire that goes right in the center of it?




The T.B has those two little tubes on the botton where do they go??? can i just by pass it???

Modified by NAlover at 6:05 PM 10/21/2006


Modified by NAlover at 6:07 PM 10/21/2006


Modified by NAlover at 6:13 PM 10/21/2006

 

the tubeon the top of the throttle body goes to the charcoal canister. if you dont have a charcoal canister you can just cap it.

i dont know what you are trying to ask about the vtec solenoid but thats the wire for it yeah.

the 2 hoses on the bottom of the throttle body are for coolant lines. a small line goes into that valve (the nipple furthes to the front of the car) and then it comes out the other nipple (the one pointing towards the firewall) and goes to the IACV, and then out the IACV to the water pipe on the back of the block.

 

thanks a lot man is my first swap so information was need it.
Other question I know there are 3 ground wires:
1. valve cover ground wire
2. tranny ground wire
3.??????

After the motor was install everything was conected i have two plugs left which is one for the P/S and the other is for that piece right there. ( it goes on top of the intake mani) will it be ok like that??


Anything will help thanks for the support


Modified by NAlover at 8:18 AM 10/22/2006

 

you be fine with out that sensor and yes u need all ground's,even good to upgrade your grounds with bigger wire's

 

those tubes have antifreeze going threw them, it hooks to the iacv on the back of the intake manifold...

 

Well I got everything hooked up but the car don't wanna start it just click and that's it... We think is the starter is not right....

 

either the starter is bad or the battery is dead

 

the first time it cranked
the second time it will juct (click)
We checked the starter with another battery and it works... the battery is good too we tryed another battery and samething happend...
I think the battery its not sending power to the starter... or the relay is not good I don't know all I know is that IS HOT OUTSIDE.


Modified by NAlover at 11:10 AM 10/22/2006

 

check all of your grounds, fuses for starter, and batter and all conections, also did u get the thurmastat ground on? check those all out and see if it works, its hella cold up here right now, even with the sun shineing on me lol

 

valve cover ground - got it
tranny ground - got it
negative battery ground -got it
thermostac ground - got it
Bro the wierd thing is that the first time it crank up.... but the second time it won't do anything...
Does the starter has a relay or something????
I wanna get my car started

 

bump for some info ...

 

maybe you fried the ignition switch? try using a different one and see what happens.

 

well when you put the key in the ignitions the lights on the cluster come on, No check engine light... but if you try to start the car it don't do anything it don't even click....
It could be a groung, relay, ECU who knows...
I'm still happy 'cuz it cranked up the first time i tryed... at least
It might be a fuse or some stupid ****... I chech the fuses inside the car and the engine bay they are all good

 

IF THE STARTER IS BAD TRY A TRICK... GET A LONG ENOUGH PEICE OF WIRE SPLICE IT ON BOTH END'S AND PUT THE KEY ON IN THE ON POSITION AND TOUCH THE POWER TERMAL ON THE BATTERY TO THE STARTER WERE THE CONNECTOR GOES.THATS GOING TO GIVE IT DIRECT POWER.I HAD TO RUN MY OLD COUPE ON A START UP BUTTON CAUSE I GUESS SOMETHING IN THE HARNESS WENT BAD

 

From now on I understand how important are the ground wires ... My uncle was all drunk and **** so he goes gets a 10mm wrench and tied the ground wire and he was like go ahead crank that bitch up.... I was like ok...
first try, it crank up like any honda it idles like **** but I don't care tunning should be interesting

 

I sure hope you're not running around on a stock ECU with 310cc injectors.

 

I was in the same situation couple weeks ago where a short in my audio caused the batt to completely short out, car would just about crank first time, lights on dash were mega dim, then it just clicked when I tried to crank..

Battery is a first.. and then starter motor.

If not the above ignition fuse related?

 

No I'm running a hondata s100 it was tunned for a B16 ,but thats just to brake-in I plan on tunning it maybe in two week... gotta find a good tunner down here

Well today I fixed the water leak on the thermostac , The only way I can get the car to Idle right at 1000rpm is by retarding the distribuitor. Will it be ok to drive around like that???

I drove the car on jack stands tomorrow I will take it to the gas station put some 93 in there and drive it around.

 

I wanna drive the car today let's see what happends

 

nice build hopefully it all works out.

 

thanks man...
I bought a 65mm ITR T.B without TPS so i put one in and it looks like it has to be set or something, because the car don't wanna idle lower than 2200rpm...
How can i set the TPS..??? Hope to get some info.
I drove the car yesterday after 1 month and it felt really good... it sound strong.

 

check for vacuum leaks

 

looks like you got it. just needed a groud to the starter

 

well after lookind for leaks I Found that the T.B was loose so air was coming out... got that fixed and now it idles perfect at 900rpm... I'm just having a little problem with the fan It don't wanna work now....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NAlover &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well after lookind for leaks I Found that the T.B was loose so air was coming out... got that fixed and now it idles perfect at 900rpm... I'm just having a little problem with the fan It don't wanna work now.... </TD></TR></TABLE>

fan switch. Its on the thermostat housing, replace it. I got mien new from Honda for $29 but I had to wait, Autozone has them for $25 new.