Im thinking of picking this flywheel up but it needs to be repaired. I know that new, JUN flywheel are expensive, but How much would you pay for this? (sellers pics):



Im still calling around to find out how much this would cost to repair at a machine shop. Any recomended shops I should take this to around the SF Bay Area? If it costs to much to repair, Im going to pass.

 

You can get a Fidanza flywheel, brand new, less weight, and has a replaceable surface plate, for $130

Unless you are getting this for free, don't bother.

 

How the *** did that happen? I'd seriously liked to know.

 

I asked the seller and he told me that he missed shifted at redline from 3rd to 2nd (missed 4th) and he suspects that since he did not use loctite on the bolts plus the fact that the rpms just shot up to heaven, the flywheel became loose and that was the result, plus broken pressure plate, desinergated disk, and a hole through the tranny bell housing.

He replaced the clutch with a tilton road race clutch that came with a flywheel and had no use for the JUN one anymore. He figured it would be an easy/cheap repair for anybody who wanted it.

He also told me he paid $400US for it direct from JUN USA (so its been a couple of years since JUN is no longer in the US). Its surprising how much of a premium JDM companies are charging for their parts, but I guess it comes down to R&D costs. (Although, now that its been a decade or so since, they should of made up their R&D costs and then some; and prices should be lower)

 

A machine shop should be able to take care of this relatively easily. Have them turn down the center portion in addition to resurfacing the flywheel and then verify proper balance afterwards. One thing that it does have going for it is that any balance issues are much closer to the inside of the flywheel - where it is seeing less force, compared to the outside edge.

I have this same flywheel on my FD and it's been great - although I'm sure my 6-puck has done wonders to the surface by now. Also do a search on one-piece chromoly vs aluminum flywheels [ http://www.team-integra.net/fo...27533 ]


Modified by clayne at 11:46 PM 10/20/2006


Modified by clayne at 11:46 PM 10/20/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can get a Fidanza flywheel, brand new, less weight, and has a replaceable surface plate, for $130

Unless you are getting this for free, don't bother.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well not quite free, but it is lightened the right way. Weight is taken off from the outside leaving some weight around the center compared to aluminum where the whole thing is lightened.

Also, probably not a big issue, but those mounting bolts that hold the surface plate on aluminum flywheels scare me. With my luck lately, somehow its going to come loose and cause some damage. I feel more safe with a one piece flywheel.

One good thing of getting it repaired is that I know that it will be in spec and balanced.

 

LOL

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondura &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, probably not a big issue, but those mounting bolts that hold the surface plate on aluminum flywheels scare me. With my luck lately, somehow its going to come loose and cause some damage. I feel more safe with a one piece flywheel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're buying a flywheel that nearly flew out of a tranny at ultra high rpm that recieved an ungodly amount of vibration/abuse and are worried about a brand new SFI approved fidenza blowing apart?

IMO, I think you should put the JDM wow factor to rest and go with an ACT prolite.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL

You're buying a flywheel that nearly flew out of a tranny at ultra high rpm that recieved an ungodly amount of vibration/abuse and are worried about a brand new SFI approved fidenza blowing apart?

IMO, I think you should put the JDM wow factor to rest and go with an ACT prolite. </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's not just about JDM because it's a JUN. This flywheel is a one-piece chromoly and NOT aluminum. Aluminum is not all around better than a chromoly flywheel. In addition, the "errors" on this flywheel are completely relegated to surface damage in the center of the flywheel - where centripetal force is significantly lower than outside. If he can get this flywheel for free and fix it up for cheap - he's getting a good deal. One thing though: he should be aware of incompatibilities between JUN flywheel teeth and USDM starter teeth hardness.

 

seller already told me that he bought this one direct from JUN USA and had no problems with the starter/ring gear teeth.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clayne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's not just about JDM because it's a JUN. This flywheel is a one-piece chromoly and NOT aluminum. Aluminum is not all around better than a chromoly flywheel. In addition, the "errors" on this flywheel are completely relegated to surface damage in the center of the flywheel - where centripetal force is significantly lower than outside. If he can get this flywheel for free and fix it up for cheap - he's getting a good deal. One thing though: he should be aware of incompatibilities between JUN flywheel teeth and USDM starter teeth hardness.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can you explain that more ?

 

http://www.team-integra.net/fo...27533

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL
You're buying a flywheel that nearly flew out of a tranny at ultra high rpm that recieved an ungodly amount of vibration/abuse and are worried about a brand new SFI approved fidenza blowing apart?

IMO, I think you should put the JDM wow factor to rest and go with an ACT prolite. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Considering still, not definite on bidding on it. I believe if taken to a good machine shop, I assume they can repair and balance to a tighter clearance/tolerance (perfectly balanced) and be better than a new JUN OR multi-piece Fidanza, comptech, clutchmaster, obx, ebay, etc... (Do these companies even make them or outsourced from a foreign company?) that is assembeled by who knows how many people and may not be perfectly balanced and screws to the friction surface tight.

But, I am leaning towards the ACT prolite, as finding a solid quote and a recommended machine shop to take it to seems harder than I first thought.

 

Ok gotcha...soo is there anything you can do about that or basicly stay away from chromoly unless u want bent teeth ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lude98SH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok gotcha...soo is there anything you can do about that or basicly stay away from chromoly unless u want bent teeth ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

i already asked the seller about the teeth matching problems, and he said that this one did not have the problem as it was purchased from JUN USA, the ones that were from JUN Japan had the starter problems because of the different starter that was used in Japan.

 

mine has 125,000 miles on it, lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondura &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i already asked the seller about the teeth matching problems, and he said that this one did not have the problem as it was purchased from JUN USA, the ones that were from JUN Japan had the starter problems because of the different starter that was used in Japan.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok but for anyone who wanted to purchase a JUN since there is no JUN USA anymore I guess were all screwed in that aspect.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondura &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
But, I am leaning towards the ACT prolite, as finding a solid quote and a recommended machine shop to take it to seems harder than I first thought. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Any machine shop who does standard flywheel resurfacing will have the equipment to do this.