**UPDATE PAGE 4**



Buddy's welding skillzzzz


n/a header off

on ground

collector torched off, bandsaw blade was junk so had to do it the hard way

the flange itself

and the flange in place, ready for more welding






t3 flange only uses about 2 feet of flat stock at most, and this is if you expletive up a lot. center punch the holes after you trace them. drill them out. bolt these to the flange, cut 2 more pieces to fit in between these. weld the seams, grind, weld again. cut 2 pieces to fit (the verticals) and weld, cut 2 more to fit in between these, and viola. hit this **** up on a belt sander to get rid of any warpage.

i've also got 1/2 of my primaries cut, ill post this up tomorow. fence post top rail ftw! 1/58" pipe



welded them on, had to check for alternator/waterpump gooseneck clearance, it does some weird **** to get to the bottom of the rad

didnt bother to clean any of the fluxcore splatter, didn't feel like it.





galvanized fencepost toprail ftw, welds like a charm too! just dont breathe it in


Made with $8 in materials


Modified by SinisterCRX at 11:49 PM 10/30/2006

 

Always best to clean the metal first

Edit: is that valve cover new

 

uh........

A for effort

 

metal was clean, what's the point?

valve cover was cleaned, i'm too lazy to take my alternator out and pressure wash the engine bay, i do a little too much mudding at times

and fluxcore madness... is fluxcore madness. why take away from it?

 

^

Say hello to the fabricator

 

yeah. not having a bandsaw that will cut is a pain. hacksaw, tinsnips, bench/bent grinder, and 3lb ballpene hammer were what built this manifold, along with a hobart handler 140 .035 fluxcore mig.

the runners off of 1 and 2 were stick welded, china import welder, 100amp 220v, but used it around 60-80 on 5/64 rods, 6011 series, the entire time.

the flange warped like crazy, me/my friend went to get some food and came back and were like wtf? it warped 1/4" as is seen, so i busted out the oxy/propane torch and cut a flange off of a failed header of his, welded it on. next day my bends/flange came in from racing solutions..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SinisterCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">made with $8 in materials </TD></TR></TABLE>

you get what you pay for?

 

not really... you weld what you can cut.

 

are you expecting that thing to last ?

 

it has no reason, other than looking like **** because my friend didn't have a wire wheel, or any wire brushes that we could find (no idea why, sand blaster wasn't working either ), it's solid.

how is something braced and solid supposed to not last? its better than modifying the stock manifold for boost..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c0mpl3x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how is something braced and solid supposed to not last? its better than modifying the stock manifold for boost..</TD></TR></TABLE>


its made from a fence. fences are not designed for 800+ degrees of egt braced or not

 

Speechless...
-Michael-

 

Its certainly not ideal... but I bet it'll work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by badeg4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
its made from a fence. fences are not designed for 800+ degrees of egt braced or not
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Stop posting already. You already sound like a dumbass. He made a manifold with what he had around. You are irrelevant in this thread. Take a hike.


To the OP, looks good. Is that 22R in a truck?

&gt;&gt;&gt;&lt;&lt;&lt;

 

looks ugly as hell. but possibly may work

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by F20Cteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stop posting already. You already sound like a dumbass. He made a manifold with what he had around. You are irrelevant in this thread. Take a hike.


To the OP, looks good. Is that 22R in a truck?

&gt;&gt;&gt;&lt;&lt;&lt;</TD></TR></TABLE>

want to explain why i sound like a dumbass? and not the guy who made a manifold out of a fence? what are you going to do for a downpipe? soupcans?


Modified by badeg4 at 5:22 AM 10/20/2006

 

no, more fencepost. it's about a 12ga (im guessing around a sch25) steel, quite a good blend for some reason. steel is steel, it doesn't melt until what, 1900º? 800 degrees or not, doesn't matter

 

having the harsh 90 degree bends will create hot spots that will expand and contract more than the straight sections. Just the nature of it will make it crack over time. You say you're mudding a lot. Shake it around a bit and you're adding to the weakness. I've seen things more stupiid than that work before, so I wouldn't be surprised if it worked, but you could do a lot better if you put about $50 into it.
If you want it to last and be reliable, do it right. If this is on a weekend warrior that you don't give a rat's *** about, hack it and have fun for free.
Lets see the beast this thing is in.

 

this is worse than the **** on home made turbo dot com!

i laughed my *** off at the soup can comment.

honestly, i once thought of making exhaust out of copper water pipe, i thought it wouldnt rust, i diddnt have a welder, but i had a propane torch and solder.

that actually wasnt a bad idea! hahahah

 

this place has a stock 22rte turbo manifold for $75

http://www.pdq4parts.com/

for a t3 flange

http://www.well.com/~mosk/Adap....html

but you still get a for making you own

 

all that matters, is if it holds together long enough to beat on the car

 

we all have to start somewhere! lol

 

So your telling me yours, is going to last as long as lets say... somthing like this?

Those welds arnt clean, you can have a leak in numerous places

 

some people will stop at nothing for boost. awesome.

 

8$ to lose.

why the expletive not.

he has everything to gain and only 8$ to lose.