I have the T3 60-1 .82A/R from Full-Race. I also have the ATP 4-bolt to V-band adapter flange.

The Problem: The bolts holding the flange to the turbo keep backing out. I've tried red lock-tite, locking washers, even tacked them in place with a mig welder haha (the welds broke...cause it was so small). Annnnd it's getting quite annoying to say the least.

The Plan: I'm in mig (to get better) and tig (to learn) classes here at school even though I'm majoring in accounting I was going to put new bolts in there and then tig the flange to the turbo itself all the way around the seam. I don't see why it wouldn't because it's not like it would then be in the way of anything.

The Question: Do you see any major problem or have any tips/advice before I do this? Would this have any negative results on the turbo...if so, what? Would you suggest using filler or would it be ok to weld it without filler? I would assume I should just so it doesn't crack or something.


Picture:
- I'm talking about the seam that is on the other side of the locking washers holding that flange to the "stock" discharge port on the turbo.
- I know the welds on the DP are probably bad haha....but no worries I'm going to get some new stainless tubing and tig weld a new on in my class for free haha.

 

Try using studs. Also, make sure the 'red' loc-tite is high temp... not high strength.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try using studs. Also, make sure the 'red' loc-tite is high temp... not high strength.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea it was the high temp stuff. I did the studs thing on the manifold to turbo area. I was having the same problem of bolts backing out all the time. I put studs in and even they backed out haha. Soooo I was like "f&ck you studs, you will stay in there)....and proceeded to weld the studs in place haha. Now I just have to check the nuts occasionally. I was just using this same logic for the adapter flange to DP area.

 

i have the same turbo, same adapter, and same problem.

i had to use red loctite twice, but its all better now, just tightened the hell out of them. i would recommend using studs before welding, its a cheap fix and you can take them out rather than having to grind a weld down

 

Last time I checked, HT loktite is only good for 400-450 degrees F. Exhaust gases run around 1000 degrees so scratch the loktite.

Double nutting always worked for me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Laserjock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Double nutting always worked for me.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would do that, but I only have like a fraction of an inch of clearance between the bolt and the v-band.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would recommend using studs before welding, its a cheap fix and you can take them out rather than having to grind a weld down</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea the studs is a good idea, but if the nut comes loose then I'll be at square one again. It's just a pain to get to all the bolts...mainly because I can't and have to take it off the car to tighten them. Who says I would grind any welds? That's what the tig welding class will be for haha. Nice and precise...and pretty too haha. I just figure that I would take it off before class one day, weld it, and put it back on in the parking lot and drive back to the dorm

 

My 30r's v-band flange is welded directly to the housing, no problems at all

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by a1320addict &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My 30r's v-band flange is welded directly to the housing, no problems at all </TD></TR></TABLE>

Coolness. I wasn't sure if I should just tig small sections at a time so I can keep the heat transfering to the turbo's insides as low as possible.

 

have you thought about tightening them, and then putting a little tack weld from the bolt to the flange? i have the 5 bolt to V-band adapter, havent run the car yet, hope i dont have this issue, but if i do, im gonna have it tigged on to the turbo

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you thought about tightening them, and then putting a little tack weld from the bolt to the flange? i have the 5 bolt to V-band adapter, havent run the car yet, hope i dont have this issue, but if i do, im gonna have it tigged on to the turbo</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AF-P Dunc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ...even tacked them in place with a mig welder haha (the welds broke...cause it was so small). Annnnd it's getting quite annoying to say the least. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea, I tried it....the tack I guess was just too small or didn't penetrate enough. Eventually the vibration broke it.

 

There are some locking nuts you can buy that should fix this. I got mine at mcmaster-carr and I haven't had any problems using studs and there stainless locking nuts.

-Michael-

If you go to mcmastercarr.com
Search for locking nuts
then click self locking nuts
then click locknuts
then click expanding
(those are what I use)

 

Both the tack welding and the lock nuts should work.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AF-P Dunc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Coolness. I wasn't sure if I should just tig small sections at a time so I can keep the heat transfering to the turbo's insides as low as possible.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Definently remove the center section if you're going to go this route and weld to the housing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by a1320addict &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Definently remove the center section if you're going to go this route and weld to the housing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why is this? If I were to do this with, I would not be disassembling the turbo at all.

 

i was having this happen on a few parts of my whip too...and belive it or not the only thing that solved it was god damn rtv silicone...

as long as you dont go nuts it will help hold the bolts in place...te rtv fills in the space between threads and helps keep everything from vibrating out....

so id just put a dab on each bolt tighten up...and see how you fare...btw you have the right size bolts right...sometimes theyll be close but not the right ones...and they just back out

 

and if that doesnt work....get some new bolts all together and use safety wire...thats never failed me just a pita to setup

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumking15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">....so id just put a dab on each bolt tighten up...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd be willing to try that. Thanks for the idea

 

Id post up in the FAB forum, those cats are pretty ingenuitive

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AF-P Dunc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'd be willing to try that. Thanks for the idea </TD></TR></TABLE>
no prob has worked pretty well for me...on a sidenote tho...it sucks when dismantling...i usually take my tap and clean out the threads after ive done this and re-assembling....you dont want the small buildup of rtv to junk up the threads and cause strippin....but this is all ive found to work...its weird since hi-temp loctite doesnt work...but this has...