It's pretty much a bolt-on affair, so I'll let the pictures do the talking:


Start by removing the one bolt from each rear lower control arm (I'm using itr rear lca's, so your setup may be a little different...)




There are five bolts holding two brackets on per side - one is the side rear tow hook, and the other is the bracket which holds the swaybar.




Comparing stock (above) vs ST (below):



Stock is 1/2" in diameter:



ST is 7/8" in diameter:




The ST brackets bolt on using only three bolts. It's up to you whether to reuse the oem bolts or the ST ones... I used the longer ones:




There's a weird plate to line up the endlinks and bolt to the rear lca's. I'm pretty disappointed in the design, but whatever works:






Here's an installed view from the rear - you can barely see it:





I left it on the softest setting. With 11k F and 16k R, it's pretty neutral unless you trailbrake or lift off throttle in a corner.

Thanks to johnzm for a great deal on the bar. Best suspension mod besides coilovers so far!

 

maybe you shoulda had invested that money on some new tires .

 

stock is 14mm, not 1/2" (12mm).

and i believe ST has a different bracket or something for 88 style control arms.

the bracket you have is suppose to bolt to the shock when you have the regular style LCA and shock.

youre going to find that bracket is going to torque a bit the way you installed it. it may work fine in the end, but id be wary of binding. take a look after youve driven a few miles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jackinthetrunk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe you shoulda had invested that money on some new tires .</TD></TR></TABLE>

Looks like DOT R tires

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock is 14mm, not 1/2" (12mm).

and i believe ST has a different bracket or something for 88 style control arms.

the bracket you have is suppose to bolt to the shock when you have the regular style LCA and shock.

youre going to find that bracket is going to torque a bit the way you installed it. it may work fine in the end, but id be wary of binding. take a look after youve driven a few miles.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have 88/ITR LCA's and I removed the welded nut and attached the bracket flush to the LCA. This prevented the bracket from turning and it is mounted similar to the non-88's. I've had no problems with it mounted this way.


I have mine mounted on the middle setting and like it. I would like to experiment with the stiffer setting to see how it feels.

ALSO, you can re-mount your tow hooks to those brackets. It's nice to retain the stock brackets for towing purposes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock is 14mm, not 1/2" (12mm).

and i believe ST has a different bracket or something for 88 style control arms.

the bracket you have is suppose to bolt to the shock when you have the regular style LCA and shock.

youre going to find that bracket is going to torque a bit the way you installed it. it may work fine in the end, but id be wary of binding. take a look after youve driven a few miles.</TD></TR></TABLE>


*shrug*

The calipers don't lie. I could measure again for you, but the stocker isn't going back on there anytime soon anyway!

The bracket did seem very odd... I guess that makes sense, but I wasn't going to fork out the $40+shipping from ST for some kit that makes this bolt up all nice and neat.

If anything, I'll see what I can come up with at ace hardware. I did this around 11:30pm the night before an autox and you can tell I was anxious to get it done. If worst comes to worst and diy don't work, then I'll go to OPM locally and have them give it a go to sort it out.