https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1785735 help me out honda-tech

 

If you pump it does it seem to get a bit better?

I jsut replaced mine and I would have good brakes, untill the got a bit hot, then I would loose everything, Once it cooled down I would have brakes again. I replaced the MC, bleed the system just like I did before and I have had great brakes ever since.

 

I am currently having the same problem on my EG, except all my fuild is there, and after the car is warm my brake pedal starts to sink.. It will feel nice and firm, and then after holding it for a few seconds at a stop sign, the damn pedal will start to sink, and I find my self having to pump it a few times to get it to feel firm again....gay! I've bleed the lines like 3 times...but I've not changed the Master Cylinder yet, that will be my next step...

 

Ight man I had the same problem on teg.....so i ended up buyin a new brake master cylinder and after that I never had a problem with it....best thing to do would to replace it.

 

same thing with me, i rode around for a couple weeks like that and finally replaced it........ problem solved

 

Am currently having that same problem myself. sucks!

 

me too but i dont wanna spend money on that

 

same problem here, how much does a MC cost and where can i get one?
i thought all i needed to do was replace the fluid

 

damn..i searched ebay and theyre going for like 70 bucks..so i think ima just get that cuz ill be spending more money by buying brake fluid every week..i tried bleed my brakes too and they were stiff when i finished but went back to the same **** again..and fluid is still leaking from SOMEWHERE..but ima get a new MC for sure cuz i dont wanna risk buyin a used one that still doesnt work..

does anyone know if a non-abs MC and an ABS MC are the same? or do i have to look for a non-abs one since i have no abs?

thanks for the info guyz..i appreciate it

 

yeah dude sounds like a master cylinder , just watch spilling brake fluid on to your alternator ,i had the same problem and when i fixed the master cylinder then i had to replace the alt too ....DOH!

 

Cool thanks, I guess I am getting a BMC....Just wondering, will I have to change out the BMC again, if I decide to do a 5 lug conversation from an Integra R, into an EG CX hatch... Or even a 4 lug with rotors all around, the reason is that I currently have drums on the rear, and rotors in the front. Thanks...

 

I changed my cmc and csc a couple months ago. I spent forever bleeding the system. I hope i never have to change the bmc.

 

is there a special way to remove/change/bleed the master cylinder? that way i know im doing it right and i dont f-up..but the whole thing with the alternator scares me..ima cover it wit a bag when i do it

 

Easy change. I was not using the same fluid so I sucked it out with a baster (99 cent store FTW) opened up one of the hard lines and let the rast drip drain out. Once it was empty took the other hard line off, removed the two nuts holding it on. Gave it a little wiggle and it came right off. Bolted the new one up (make sure to check the waser/seal driection) put the hard lines back on. Filled it with fluid and bleed the brakes. It took foreve on the right rear brake. I finally gave up, did the other 3, went back to it and bleed it again. Drove the car for a couple of days and did a quick bleed again. I got one major air bubble out of the left rear and that was it. Brakes have been very good since then!

 

whats a baster? and how was it braking after u didnt finish the last brakes? squishy or anything? so how do you drain it? just keep bleeding it or is there a bolt or something to drain?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4play4dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn..i searched ebay and theyre going for like 70 bucks..so i think ima just get that cuz ill be spending more money by buying brake fluid every week..i tried bleed my brakes too and they were stiff when i finished but went back to the same **** again..and fluid is still leaking from SOMEWHERE..but ima get a new MC for sure cuz i dont wanna risk buyin a used one that still doesnt work..

does anyone know if a non-abs MC and an ABS MC are the same? or do i have to look for a non-abs one since i have no abs?

thanks for the info guyz..i appreciate it</TD></TR></TABLE>
more likely, a non-ABS MC will use two 10mm fittings. an ABS-equipped MC will use one 10mm and one 12mm fitting. these are for tha stainless steel lines. that 12mm fitting on ABS-equipped MC's are meant to go directly to tha ABS modulator. on non-ABS vehicles, they go directly to tha proportional valve.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm_bones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cool thanks, I guess I am getting a BMC....Just wondering, will I have to change out the BMC again, if I decide to do a 5 lug conversation from an Integra R, into an EG CX hatch... Or even a 4 lug with rotors all around, the reason is that I currently have drums on the rear, and rotors in the front. Thanks...</TD></TR></TABLE>
since you'd be on much larger brakes, get tha corresponding BB & MC to accompany it. preferrably with a 1" MC. i won't have to worry about floorin' tha brake pedal just to get your big rotors to stop.

also, when you can, switch out your 3030 prop' valve to a 4040 prop' valve. this will also help get that extra fluid you need to your caliper's pistons.

_taF

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tallazzFilipino &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
more likely, a non-ABS MC will use two 10mm fittings. an ABS-equipped MC will use one 10mm and one 12mm fitting. these are for tha stainless steel lines. that 12mm fitting on ABS-equipped MC's are meant to go directly to tha ABS modulator. on non-ABS vehicles, they go directly to tha proportional valve.


since you'd be on much larger brakes, get tha corresponding BB & MC to accompany it. preferrably with a 1" MC. i won't have to worry about floorin' tha brake pedal just to get your big rotors to stop.

also, when you can, switch out your 3030 prop' valve to a 4040 prop' valve. this will also help get that extra fluid you need to your caliper's pistons.

_taF</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sweet thanks bro, you learn new things everyday!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdm_bones &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sweet thanks bro, you learn new things everyday! </TD></TR></TABLE>

here are tha things i've learned as i've ran into them:

94-01 integ's w/ABS have 1" MC.

94-01 non-ABS integ's have 15/16 MC.

94-97 integ's w/ABS used tha smaller reservoir and tha hard stainless steel ABS line uses a 12mm nut-fitting to bolt to tha MC. tha other line still uses a 10mm nut-fitting. also, bolt pattern of MC to BB is like a forward slash.

98-01 integ's w/ABS used tha larger MC (IT-R type) and tha both hard stainless steel lines (includin' ABS line) use a 10mm nut-fitting to bolt to tha MC. also, bolt pattern of MC to BB is horizontal.

so, if you're tryin' to convert to a 1" MC (w/correspondin' BB) in a EH (EG), you want to pick one up from a 98-01 integ w/ABS, since your orignal hard stainless steel lines, both, use a 10mm nut-fitting to bolt to tha MC. if you don't mind usin' a 15/16" MC (w/correspondin' BB), then you can use any year from 94-01 integ. also, tha bolt pattern of tha MC to BB in an EH (EG) is like a backward slash.

also, remember, you'll have to do some rebendin' of tha hard stainless steel lines.

_taF