We started building this car for a customer and ive been too busy to make a post about it, but i thought i would do it now.

Basically, the whole thing started because the customer had a certain monetary budget (dont we all) and he wanted the best bang for his buck. We threw around ideas of a Stock GSR swap OBD1 with nitrous, then felt it would be too unreliable on a stock motor. Turbo B series was out of the question, H22 swap, etc etc.

After thinking about it for awhile, and being inspired by FULL RACEs Turbo D series for Pinks, i said "why not turbo D?" well, the project was born once numbers were crunched and heres what we came up with:

<FONT COLOR="Red">ENGINE BUILD, TURBO KIT AND ALL FABRICATION DONE BY MAINSTREAM PERFORMANCE/Turbo Dave Fabrications</FONT>
D16A6 block STOCK SLEEVES
CP Pistons
Eagle Rods
Y8 SOHC VTEC HEAD and INTAKE MANIFOLD
LS TB
Stock head IE stock springs, ret, valves
Balanced bottom end, bore, hone, deck, hottank
ACL bearings
all the new OEM stuff (oil pump, timing belt, water pump, etc)
TDF D series bottom mount short runner Turbo manifold
Turbonetics T3/T4 57 Trim
<FONT COLOR="Red">MSPi Intercooler kit, piping, DP , Exhuast</FONT>
EVO 8 560cc injectors
Boomslang Conversion harness OBD0-OBD1
Digitalboxtuning.com ECU (p28 chipped with Chrome)
ZC Tranny with equal length axles
Competition Clutch Stage 4 with upgraded PP
Stock flywheel

PICS:
Here is the intercooler we originally wanted to use (JUST KIDDING)



Block with its new slugs:



Turbo Setup WITH FACTORY FULL CORE RADIATOR, Crossmember, Battery location








3in DP with FACTORY CROSSMEMBER




Shooting for at least 300whp. be happy with more obviously. just got it cranked up so tomrrow we will tune it. stay tuned.

 

wow, looks great, cant wait for numbers!

 

you guys are doing some good work

 

good luck
keep the D's representeD!!!!!!!

 

 

I have boosted many a EF and big props for working with the stock rad and crossmemember.A 3" downpipe is some good fab work. Im thinking 350whp min.You should stop tinkering with Hondas and get back to fabbing my bad *** 2JZ swap package though

 

very very nice

 

link to where you got the manifold from please.

 

Looks good, Good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oscarmayer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">link to where you got the manifold from please.</TD></TR></TABLE>

mainstreamperformance.com, my shop

 

nice sohc build! cant wait to see #s

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oscarmayer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">link to where you got the manifold from please.</TD></TR></TABLE>

go away, youre not welcome here

 

it looks sick

 

suscribed....everyone underestimates the power of D. Good luck with the tuning.

 

GOOD NEWS:
car made good power. 285whp/235tq on pump gas at 18psi.

Bad News:
the 19 year old D16A6 sleeve on number gave out in the middle of a pull. Cracked in half i guess we didnt have as good of luck as Full Race

I already snatched the motor out of the car and have it on an engine stand. im gonna reassemble it in a y7 motor, with a block guard this time.


I really hate block guards, ive always had problems with them, or friends that had cooling issues with them, but i think it may have saved this block had it been installed.

ill have pics an updates soon, i hope to have it back up an running by the end of this week

 

good#'s...hate the sleeve issue though...

swap the block, and go at it again

 

isnt 285 @ 18psi pretty low for a semi-built sohc with a .57 trim?

 

 

those are low numbers for a 57 trim and 18lbs.

But the sleeve cracking tells me that it probably wasnt healthy before hand.

Thats badass how u guys kept all that stock gayness, very cost effective.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecKiDD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">GOOD NEWS:
car made good power. 285whp/235tq on pump gas at 18psi.

Bad News:
the 19 year old D16A6 sleeve on number gave out in the middle of a pull. Cracked in half i guess we didnt have as good of luck as Full Race

I already snatched the motor out of the car and have it on an engine stand. im gonna reassemble it in a y7 motor, with a block guard this time.


I really hate block guards, ive always had problems with them, or friends that had cooling issues with them, but i think it may have saved this block had it been installed.

ill have pics an updates soon, i hope to have it back up an running by the end of this week</TD></TR></TABLE>

i wouldn't say the sleeves are to blame...
but anyways i'd reccomend the golden eagle blockguard... i filed and sanded until it could go into the block with my hands, not hammered in....

didn't hone or rebore and it works fine

 

well at 18psi was only the 20th run. we didnt even touch the timing yet, it was actually retarded a good 6 degrees.

i think we could have popped 300whp on pump gas.

stock head too remember, no cam or spring an ret so we cant rev it out.

but yeah, GE block guard is being ordered monday

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i wouldn't say the sleeves are to blame...
but anyways i'd reccomend the golden eagle blockguard... i filed and sanded until it could go into the block with my hands, not hammered in....

didn't hone or rebore and it works fine </TD></TR></TABLE>

what would the point of this be? Id figure that would be worse?
People Have said to tack weld in blockguards so they dont move or popup during hard load and expansion???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PinkMaggit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what would the point of this be? Id figure that would be worse?
People Have said to tack weld in blockguards so they dont move or popup during hard load and expansion???</TD></TR></TABLE>


if you have to hammer it in, it would of course move the sleeves ever so slightly throwing off any aligned boring and hone job.
second the metal expands- an already super tight blockguard will try to expand and have no where to go.
third- the blockguard's primary job IMO is to prevent sleeve walk. sleeve walk is what blows headgaskets, not head lift. there is a reason why several of us had headgasket issues which went away by just adding a blockguard.

it shouldnt be loose enough that it just can move up and down, and when i meant press it in by hand, it does take some force to do it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecKiDD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well at 18psi was only the 20th run. we didnt even touch the timing yet, it was actually retarded a good 6 degrees.

i think we could have popped 300whp on pump gas.

stock head too remember, no cam or spring an ret so we cant rev it out.

but yeah, GE block guard is being ordered monday</TD></TR></TABLE>

Only 6 degrees retarded on 18psi and pump gas?!?!?
No wonder it cracked a sleeve.
A blockguard won't fix that. That is way too much timing for that setup.

 

10 degrees on 93 octane? are you kidding me?

thats not too much timing