Dizzy doesnt have spark???
ok i did a B16 swap in my buddys CRX for him... well before that he had a mini me swap that a local shop did for him and they converted it obd-1... well i did the swap and i told him i wont touch his wiring because i dont hack other hacks wiring... he then had some guy he met do the wiring, and i checked over the work when i got home, everything is pinned correctly on the ecu but there is no spark from the dizzy... i checked all the grounds (thermastate housing, tranny, and valve cover, even made extra grounds)... but for some reason it has power but no spark??? we switched dizzys hoping it was a coil or ignitor, and we changed main relays but nope that didnt work... then we switched ecu's and still nothing... well has anyone experienced this before???
does thefuel pump prime when the ignition switch is turned to the on position? If not, try fuse #14 under the dash, it is to the alternator, look closely at this fuse mine was blown and i couldn"t even tell until I checked it a second time.
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Ok, please, the next time yo have a problem like this - don't cause 10 more problems by screwing with things that don't need to be screwed with. Why would you be replacing main relays due to a no-spark condition?
buy a manual, they have troubleshooting steps you can follow for each specific condition.
It's hard for me to identify what could be wrong after everything you've messed with.
As for the wiring... if it was already OBD1 - nothing really needed to be done except maaaybe a knock wire if he's runnin a P30. What did he have someone change?!?
I would have started with a volt meter by checking continuity on each wire at the Distributor to their corresponding position at the ECU. If that's good, then you check fuses, fuses ok, - if there are no engine codes - replace the dizzy. (or test the dizzy at a auto-store)
Don't replace what doesn't need to be replaced. That's what we call "throwing parts at a problem" and doesn't ever solve it.
buy a manual, they have troubleshooting steps you can follow for each specific condition.It's hard for me to identify what could be wrong after everything you've messed with.
As for the wiring... if it was already OBD1 - nothing really needed to be done except maaaybe a knock wire if he's runnin a P30. What did he have someone change?!?
I would have started with a volt meter by checking continuity on each wire at the Distributor to their corresponding position at the ECU. If that's good, then you check fuses, fuses ok, - if there are no engine codes - replace the dizzy. (or test the dizzy at a auto-store)
Don't replace what doesn't need to be replaced. That's what we call "throwing parts at a problem" and doesn't ever solve it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NikoZai »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, please, the next time yo have a problem like this - don't cause 10 more problems by screwing with things that don't need to be screwed with. Why would you be replacing main relays due to a no-spark condition?
buy a manual, they have troubleshooting steps you can follow for each specific condition.
It's hard for me to identify what could be wrong after everything you've messed with.
As for the wiring... if it was already OBD1 - nothing really needed to be done except maaaybe a knock wire if he's runnin a P30. What did he have someone change?!?
I would have started with a volt meter by checking continuity on each wire at the Distributor to their corresponding position at the ECU. If that's good, then you check fuses, fuses ok, - if there are no engine codes - replace the dizzy. (or test the dizzy at a auto-store)
Don't replace what doesn't need to be replaced. That's what we call "throwing parts at a problem" and doesn't ever solve it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
buy a manual, they have troubleshooting steps you can follow for each specific condition.It's hard for me to identify what could be wrong after everything you've messed with.
As for the wiring... if it was already OBD1 - nothing really needed to be done except maaaybe a knock wire if he's runnin a P30. What did he have someone change?!?
I would have started with a volt meter by checking continuity on each wire at the Distributor to their corresponding position at the ECU. If that's good, then you check fuses, fuses ok, - if there are no engine codes - replace the dizzy. (or test the dizzy at a auto-store)
Don't replace what doesn't need to be replaced. That's what we call "throwing parts at a problem" and doesn't ever solve it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nickoZai
the stuff i replaced with this car came from my buddys running b16 hatch... we took everything back off seeing that everything we tryed didnt work... yes we tried dffrent ECU's main relays and dizzys... i have checked all the fuses, im not a wiring guy i just put it in... yes i do have manuals i have pdf version shop manuals... i told the guy who owns the car i dont mess with other people's wiring... somone else did this and im just tryin to get this 2 run...
the stuff i replaced with this car came from my buddys running b16 hatch... we took everything back off seeing that everything we tryed didnt work... yes we tried dffrent ECU's main relays and dizzys... i have checked all the fuses, im not a wiring guy i just put it in... yes i do have manuals i have pdf version shop manuals... i told the guy who owns the car i dont mess with other people's wiring... somone else did this and im just tryin to get this 2 run...
Looks like we need to start a "If it aint broke, fix it till it is!" thread.
Are you still using an ignitor in that mess? If so, check it and or get rid of it.
Are you still using an ignitor in that mess? If so, check it and or get rid of it.
i double checked the thermaste when it first happend all the grounds are there... Like i said i switched parts with a running B16 hatch and nothing i switched the Dizzy's and nothing so it cant be a coil or ignitor... all i did was switch with parts off a unning car i put all the parts back... its not a dizzy ecu relay the only thing i can think of is the guy fucked up his wiring... all the ecu spots are right...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NikoZai »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would have started with a volt meter by checking continuity on each wire at the Distributor to their corresponding position at the ECU..</TD></TR></TABLE>
DO THIS NOW
I would have started with a volt meter by checking continuity on each wire at the Distributor to their corresponding position at the ECU..</TD></TR></TABLE>
DO THIS NOW
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