Ok, so I figured I would sort this issue out b4 I start tackling the CRX next week. I first thought that the problem was the fuel pump b/c the car hasnt been started in 2yrs. however, I noticed that when I turn the key, I do not even get one click sound and the CEL light does not illuminate either. I am leaning towards the main relay but here's my question: will the fuel pump prime w/o receiving a signal from the main relay? or, will the fuel pump prime w/o the main relay working? how do u check the main relay? any help is much appreciated.

Things I have already checked:
1) Fuses - all were fine besides the ALT fuse. I should also mention that the ALT needs replacing as well.

2) Spark - passed the spark test. I did this b/c it was cranking aok but just not firing up b4 I purchased the CRX.

 

have you checked the battery voltage first? could just be a bad battery. Main relays rarely go out - lots of people point to them as the problem because they see other people talk about it on Hondatech It's not very likely to be the problem.

And replace the alternator fuse, I do believe that is linked to another major circuit.

If you're aware of a problem - fix it before troubleshooting other things, sometimes they're related.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NikoZai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

And replace the alternator fuse, I do believe that is linked to another major circuit.
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lol, yes you need this! Peter, remember I called you on the side of the road that day on the way to LA? That was the fuse that blew

 

I have had several main relays go out. The fuel pump will not prime with out it.

 

um, ya of course, the main relay is the fuel pump relay

 

Lemme guess, the Alt. fuse you speak of is called the "Altenator Soldenoid Fuse?" It is directly linked to the fuel pump. Mine did this when my fuel pump kill switch grounded out. You need to find the short in the fuel pump wiring, or whatever is causing the Alt. fuse to blow, and then replace the fuse with the same amperage fuse. I tried just slapping in a much higher rated fuse to see if I could just get it home real quick but it didn't blow, just wouldn't work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lemme guess, the Alt. fuse you speak of is called the "Altenator Soldenoid Fuse?" It is directly linked to the fuel pump. Mine did this when my fuel pump kill switch grounded out. You need to find the short in the fuel pump wiring, or whatever is causing the Alt. fuse to blow, and then replace the fuse with the same amperage fuse. I tried just slapping in a much higher rated fuse to see if I could just get it home real quick but it didn't blow, just wouldn't work.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That would be the right fuse. Would this cause the CEL to not illuminate when trying to start the vehicle?

I must appologize if I am sounding like a rookie at this. This is my first EF and I am finding things slightly diff electrically than my EK or EM2.

Btw, Battery is right out of the plastic so it could be that!

 

The #31 fuse, according to page 16-20 in the CRX workshop manual shows that it is the intermediary to just about EVERYTHING lol It's one of 2 main fuses.

Starter, Hazard lights and ECU will still probably work. They are on #34

Everything else will not.
You've got a major short in your electrical system. Finding a short like this can be obvious if you know what has been modified, pinched on crimped somewhere causing the shielding to break on a 12v+ wire... Or your alternator is causing it.

To diagnose this, disconnect the alternator and install a new fuse.
If it pops when you reconnect the alternator, there's your problem.
If it pops before you connect the alternator, you'll have to continue testing other possibilities.

This is almost a common sense task - but you do need to understand how an electrical system works and what you're doing. You're looking for a 12v+ wire in that circuit, touching the chassis, unshielded or with broken shielding.

Don't install a larger fuse (higher amperage)
Don't bypass the fuse with a piece of metal. (you'll burn your car to the ground)

If you're really savy, like me, you can use a auto-switching fuse and a compass. Move the compass over wire runs, whereever the short is, a small Electromagnetic field will be present and cause the compass needle to spin or point toward the field.


Ryan diagnosed this on the side of the road in... what? Death valley? LOL His problem turned out to be melted O2 Sensor wiring on the header (i think)


Modified by NikoZai at 10:25 PM 10/17/2006

 

cheers mate for the help!

 

Just for an update...
I finally found some time to work on the CRX.

I solved the Altenator Soldenoid Fuse (#14 in dash fuse box) issue by replacing the alt w/ a remanufatured one. This has now enabled me to hear the main relay clicking when I turn the key to ACC and ON position. However, the fuel pump still doesnt engage nor does the CEL illuminate on the dash. Also, when I turn the key into the ON position the tach reads 750rpm when the engine is obviously not running.

HELP pls!!

 

bump...help anybody!?

 

Hey did you ever get this sorted? I have no cel on key turn.