I've had a couple questions on this and its easier to post the write up rather than try to explain everything....enjoy:

First, I have installed 2 sets of hoodpins and these were way easier to install than either of those. However I cannot say that this would work on every car, but with a little know how they are easily fitted to a 4th Gen Prelude.

That being said DISCLAIMER good luck, you screw it up, not my fault

The camlock kit can be purchased at any hardware/home improvement store and is MAG Security Model# 8808KA759, this way they are keyed alike (but any can be easily keyed alike by any knowledgeable locksmith for about $4 or so) The kit comes with all the necessary parts for the install (and some extras), I used the drop down latch and the 90 degree turn mechanism. I promise that will all make sense when you have it in your hand.

The first thing that you have to do is decide where you want them. As shown in the pics above I found a place on both sides that cleared anything that would interfere and went from there. So these spots ended up about 10 inches up from the front of the fender, and then I taped off on the fender this location (as shown below)


I then transferred the measurement across onto the hood:


I then applied another piece of tape to cover the area that would be drilled through (to protect the clearcoat from chipping/cracking), and drew a line on it to show the 10" mark:


I then slipped the latch part under where the fender bolts onto the outer fender and then measured from the center of the camlock to the fender, 1 1/2"


I then transferred this measurement onto the tape on the hood (keep in mind the gap between the fender/hood when closed)


Once marking this, I drilled a pilot hole so I could center the larger bit in the next step ( I used a unibit)


I then measured up the unibit using the "beauty ring washer" that mounts directly under the face of the lock:


Topside after drilling:


Underside:


The underside will have to be made larger, I used the unibit from the underside and then a dremel tool


This hole will have to be large enough to accomodate the socket that will be needed to tighten down the nut on the backside of the lock


This is where you will have to test fit to make sure that the angles are correct, and that with the lock in there that the socket still fits:


Should look something like this


This is the "lock washer", it has 4 little teeth (that dremel made a little smaller-highlighted) and keeps the lock from spinning freely. I also had to grind down one side to fit it in correctly, hightlighted w/ red tint. (the pic isnt all that good, but if you get one in your hands you'll see what I'm talking about)


Lock installed with the latch part attached. The lockset will come with two different "stoppers", one for 90 degree rotation of the lock and one for 180. I used the 90 degree where the lock rotated toward the back of the car for the unlock, and then rotating into the fender


Finished install from the top (single and entire hood)



As stated in the "Prelude Pictures" thread, this was not so much for the lockable feature of these but for the cleaner look than hood pins or having to vastly modify the Hood Lock kit that Mr.Gasket puts out to accomodate the sloping angle of our hoods. All that being said if you have any questions dont hesitate to ask.

K

 

I know my question is not related to the hood pins but, did you have to trim the frame underneath the hood to get it to close? The reason I ask is because I bought a Seibon OEM carbon fiber hood and the hood wont close. the gap on your drivers side looks like mine. The only difference is your hood closes lol. I want to find a solution to this problem other than going court over a $460 hood. Thanks.

 

The arc put in the CF hood is greater than the design of the car....this actually decreased the gap, but as you pointed out didnt fix it. It doesnt rub anywhere it was just finished w/ a little bit different arc

K

 

pm'ed you

 

Looks clean & functional. Are the locks rated for exterior use? My only concern is that the lock internals will start to rust up & freeze on you.

 

pretty nice writeup. there are some other locks out there that are pretty clean as well. some road racers use it.

it is flush with the hood. kinda looks like the door handles off those big trucks, just oval. work really well and can lock.

but the problem is that they are 100 bux.

 

yeah like billy's....they are sick...but $10 for these or $100 for his....i aint got that kinda cash.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2lude4u &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks clean & functional. Are the locks rated for exterior use? My only concern is that the lock internals will start to rust up & freeze on you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, that had been considered, i'm just gonna keep'em WD-40'd after everytime they get wet....we'll just have to see what happens long term (but I can probably afford to replace them a couple times over the years)

K

 

dude, thanks for the wrie up man AAAA i need to do something like this so i feel safe drivin my car on the highway, my only concern is the locks messin up the hood over time.. cracking maybe, and the locks freezing up and not being able to open the hood, ill prob get some of these soon tho, i appreciate it, great alternative to annoying hood pins, just remember to unlock them before u pop ur hood or it prob will crack.

 

Nice writeup and all but but why not just drill your frame? I think they look weird to the sides like that but I probaly needed to do that too as it wasn't flush on the sides. That's gone now and if you have that problem I'd say it time it should even out more.

FAQ this modzzz