okay hmmmm. I've changed break pads, sway bars, end links, coilovers, etc., but how do you change drum breaks. My brother informed me that you will have to do those at garages?

Also how much would an ep3 or dc5 rear disc swap cost?

 

I've seen rear disc conversions cost in the ballpark of $200 (USD). In order to replace drum shoes, requires either some crafty use of tools, or a specialty spring compressor. I'd say have the shoes replaced by a shop, because it's cheap enough to skip the hassles of doing it yourself.

 

Now I'm debating on whether to do a disc swap since it's only $200 or should I just do get my drum breaks replaced. BTW I cleaned the drum breaks. They are shiny silver now, stock color looking brand new.

 

All you need is a drum brake spring tool, its 9 bucks at autozone. Take a picture before you disassemble it so you can get it back together right. They're quite simple once you get over all the parts.
I wrote a full DIY on 7th gen. Its a pain, but the spring tool helps a lot.

 

is it a big difference in stopping with the rear disc swap? maybe it's just me but I feel that disc brakes don't last as long as drum (eg. you have replace it when the rotors are warped).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civ05se &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it a big difference in stopping with the rear disc swap? maybe it's just me but I feel that disc brakes don't last as long as drum (eg. you have replace it when the rotors are warped).</TD></TR></TABLE>

True, you need to replace rotors on warpage, but I've had Drum housings crack, which is worse.

 

I guess I'll stick to drums until the future. Mostly stopping power comes from front from my understanding.

Thanks for letting me know about the spring tool and your DIY. I'll be reading that a lot lol. I love working on cars just don't really have much time.


Modified by oddmut at 11:34 AM 10/16/2006

 

unless you are autoX'ing or other racing, disc conversion probably isnt the 1st thing to do. I would add better front breaking equipment before doing the rears.

Try upgrading to Brembo Blank Rotors, HAWK pads and Stainless steel lines, this is all you should need for the street ( and is wat i plan on running once my breaks wear out)

 

Right now I'm running OEM size rotors that are cross-drilled / slotted. With my stock calipers. I'm also running AEM pads which are awesome. Reduced break dust and you can feel the stopping difference. I didn't upgrade the lines for a nicer feel but that's what I'm running so far on the front. For the amount of HP I have it is perfect. I just like the rear disc because it's pretty and with that, you can pull off 180's which you can't with drums as drums don't grip and stop you hard enough. Basically I want my rear tires to lock up and create a 180 slide into the next lane!

BOOOYA! I grew up motocrossing.

I like ur set up the only thing I would do is get it slotted as to help with heat reduction. Cross-drilled is not really too smart if you like to slam on your breaks hard haha. Causes cracks. Also in regards to the OEM size rotors from Rotora which are mine but has 2 features to it, my friend used to work at a garage in el monte i think and the owner of rotora buys their rotors from them. Lol that's kinda sad.

 

Even slotted arent needed for street driving, Brembo blanks are IMO the best rotors for daily driving (without going to a big brake kit) but if u ARE planning on autox, then slotted might be an idea.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18a_CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Even slotted arent needed for street driving, Brembo blanks are IMO the best rotors for daily driving (without going to a big brake kit) but if u ARE planning on autox, then slotted might be an idea.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is bad advice.

Slotted rotors, aside from being a tremendous waste of money, are not well suited for any sort of driving where you'll cook brakes because they create hotspots and stress risers at the edges of the slots.
Use blanks, they've got more surface area, and they're so cheap they're disposable. Look in the RR/AX forum, no one uses anything but blanks.
Additionally, don't swap the drums for discs if you're going to AutoX, the swap automatically drops you into STX, where you'll find yourself playing with WRXs, ITRs and e36s, and trust me, you don't want any of that.
The best autocross brakes are stock ones, with DOT4 and decient HP street pads.
The drums can take the beating... the car's only got 110 WHP. Additionally, the F/R bias is about 4.5:1, so they don't do much.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civ05se &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it a big difference in stopping with the rear disc swap?</TD></TR></TABLE>

are you kidding? hell yea they do, in my opinion, if you want a REALLY good performace change for round 500, do this... do the rear disc swap and put all 4 disks in matchin new rotors and pads and you will notice an INCREDIBLE change in braking. im doin this is to my hopefully soon.

 

okay so why do high performance cars run ceramic either slotted or cross-drilled rotors?

 

Ceramic isn't iron, it behaves differently.
Cross drilling, slotting, etc... look snazzy. Doesn't mean it actually accomplishes anything functionally. dual exhausts on inline engines is pointless too, yet theres tons of cars with that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boilermaker1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This is bad advice.

Slotted rotors, aside from being a tremendous waste of money, are not well suited for any sort of driving where you'll cook brakes because they create hotspots and stress risers at the edges of the slots.
Use blanks, they've got more surface area, and they're so cheap they're disposable. Look in the RR/AX forum, no one uses anything but blanks.
Additionally, don't swap the drums for discs if you're going to AutoX, the swap automatically drops you into STX, where you'll find yourself playing with WRXs, ITRs and e36s, and trust me, you don't want any of that.
The best autocross brakes are stock ones, with DOT4 and decient HP street pads.
The drums can take the beating... the car's only got 110 WHP. Additionally, the F/R bias is about 4.5:1, so they don't do much.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well there u have it, the AutoX guru has spoken. Dont do what i said then, Go blanks. Boiler is probably the most knowledgable person on here when it comes to this stuff, so Id take his word as gosple

 

haha alright. Well just on my half I love to keep dishing out stuff so I can get more knowledge on it lol.

I guess my last question would be why do they inform you that cross-drilled and slotted are for performance racing and **** like that?

 

Theres marketing, and there's engineering... they tend to not totally agree with each other.

 

okay so basically out of slotted, cross-drilled, and blank, blanks are the best as they give more surface area and do not segregate the heat correct?

 

Bingo, its a solid surface.

 

wow. boilermaker, where have you been?! i've been looking for some more information on autox.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toyomatt84 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've seen rear disc conversions cost in the ballpark of $200 (USD). In order to replace drum shoes, requires either some crafty use of tools, or a specialty spring compressor. I'd say have the shoes replaced by a shop, because it's cheap enough to skip the hassles of doing it yourself.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd definitely take it to a shop.. But if you're willing to learn how to do it yourself.. The only crafty tools you'll need are vise grip pliers.. I usually use those along with a flat blade screwdriver, slip joint plier, and a big vise.. Best way to do it is to remove the hub.. After that, it's a downhill battle.. Just rememeber to do one side at a time so that you can use the other side for reference..

 

200 for the rear swap? more like 400... unless you jack an Si

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blouisgod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">200 for the rear swap? more like 400... unless you jack an Si</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can get all the parts at the local Import Auto Salvage for roughly $150. And, considering I could do all the work on my driveway, maybe add in some money for new fasteners and some water, and you get $200.

 

If you know a bit about how to work on cars then you should figure it out... take one side apart at a time to use as refence, dont take the hub out unless the drum dont come out... hope your good with your hands because you need to know how to work those springs because it could be hard for a first timer

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toyomatt84 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I can get all the parts at the local Import Auto Salvage for roughly $150. And, considering I could do all the work on my driveway, maybe add in some money for new fasteners and some water, and you get $200. </TD></TR></TABLE>
WOW, good by you,around here is 350 to 400!