now i want to just slapp it on but my friend said something about stock z6 having paper head gasket and said i should change it to metal or thicker one.. can i just turbo my car the way it is?

and imma run the blue box on six psi for a while till i can get injectors

what do you guyz think about the blue box?

thanks

 

The Z6 uses a MLS steel headgasket.

The blue box is fine if you are using a P28 ecu and as long as you retard the timing about 4 degrees from the dizzy.


>>><<<

 

so its ok to turbo my sohc the way it is?

anyone got the greddy drain plug that goes onto the oil pan to sell?

 

Just boost it untill the head starts to lift. If you notice your coolant res. filling up then it's time to change the headgasket (use an OEM one). Changing a head gasket on a single cam only takes a couple of hours.

 

what if he had ems instead of the blue box?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by F20Cteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The Z6 uses a MLS steel headgasket.

The blue box is fine if you are using a P28 ecu and as long as you retard the timing about 4 degrees from the dizzy.


&gt;&gt;&gt;&lt;&lt;&lt;</TD></TR></TABLE>

The blue box SHOULD be safe to run at stock levels and should require no retarding of the dist. I would personally skip the blue box into a river and get something like Hondata or Crome.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The blue box SHOULD be safe to run at stock levels and should require no retarding of the dist. I would personally skip the blue box into a river and get something like Hondata or Crome.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i do have hondata. but no injectors or money for tuning. imma run the blue box for now i just want the kit in

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by moops vs moors &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you'll be fine. much safer if intercooled at the very least get a DSM sidemount for $20.

Intercooling and tuning are the reason for D series making 220 whp reliably these days.

better have a boost guage also</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep its intercooled type 31 intercooler very nice.. its a used kit guy had it on 6 psi w/ the blue box. i wanna run it soo bad.. tues ill start the install.

i just need to get some info before i start it thats all dont wanna run into something bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The blue box SHOULD be safe to run at stock levels and should require no retarding of the dist. I would personally skip the blue box into a river and get something like Hondata or Crome.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It should be, but it isn't. To be safe, retarding the dizzy is simple fix. The box provides plenty of fuel, but it doesn't do anything with timing.

It is much safer to be a few degrees retarded.

&gt;&gt;&gt;&lt;&lt;&lt;

 

Just a lil FYI I had the greddy kit on mine wityh the blue box as well and loved it...After 6psi got boring threw a wideband on and ran 13psi safely...Car was a mid to low 13 sec car. THe one time I went to the track put down a wopping 15.5 with a 3.6 60' foot lol smoke show.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostin92hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just a lil FYI I had the greddy kit on mine wityh the blue box as well and loved it...After 6psi got boring threw a wideband on and ran 13psi safely...Car was a mid to low 13 sec car. THe one time I went to the track put down a wopping 15.5 with a 3.6 60' foot lol smoke show.</TD></TR></TABLE>

nice first person that was happy w/ blue box people dont like it for some reason thanks fo rthe info

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egturbo1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

nice first person that was happy w/ blue box people dont like it for some reason thanks fo rthe info</TD></TR></TABLE>


Except a few "flaws" with his story...

1). The stock map sensor can't read past 11.7psi, much less 13psi.
2). You can't tune the blue box. So how did he throw a wideband on it and be ready to roll? Lemme guess, VAFC?

 

anymore info?

btw- would aluminum weld onto the z6 oil pan? cuz i got a y8 oil that is tapped welded. i need to cut that bung and then weld it onto my z6 will it work? thanks

 

You can't weld al to steel, yet , but you can braze it.


&gt;&gt;&gt;&lt;&lt;&lt;

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by F20Cteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can't weld al to steel, yet , but you can braze it.


&gt;&gt;&gt;&lt;&lt;&lt;</TD></TR></TABLE>

what do you mean?

 

When in the molten state the two metals don't bond.


Brazing works because it is bronze and bronze sticks to everything. (honestly not sure on the metallurgy aspect of brazing)

&gt;&gt;&gt;&lt;&lt;&lt;

 

thats the only thing stopping me from completing my install anyone know where i can get one?

 

the oil drain that goes onto the oil pan that greddy gives ya i really need that part..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Except a few "flaws" with his story...

1). The stock map sensor can't read past 11.7psi, much less 13psi.
2). You can't tune the blue box. So how did he throw a wideband on it and be ready to roll? Lemme guess, VAFC?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree his story is flawed lol. but the blue box is good to 10-11psi just fine. It reads the map sensor voltage and when it sees boost on the map, it alters the signal to the ecu so that the ecu doesnt throw a code (for california emissions) and it then modifies the injector signals to bring the stock injectors up to 90% duty cycle regardless of boost. Its WAAYYYY rich at 6psi which is what everyone always complained about.

you can just adjust the boost up to 10 or so and its still rich as hell (safe as hell) since irregardless of boost level the injectors are pumping fuel. It just helps lean it out at higher boost.

basically, greddy kit @ 6psi is like an a/f of around 9-10 or so.

kick the boost up to around 10psi and the a/f leans out to around 10.5-11.5 almost perfect.

for something you can get off ebay for $50, you cant go wrong for makeshift management just to get going while waiting to get your other tuning stuff ready.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stackz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can just adjust the boost up to 10 or so and its still rich as hell (safe as hell) since irregardless of boost level the injectors are pumping fuel. It just helps lean it out at higher boost. </TD></TR></TABLE>

To say that running 9:1 is "safe as hell" is a very misleading statement. Ever seen what happens from running way too much fuel? It can do just as much damage as running lean.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stackz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
for something you can get off ebay for $50, you cant go wrong for makeshift management just to get going while waiting to get your other tuning stuff ready.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can chip your ECU for less then $10 with components if you know how to solder and then run soemthing like Crome or Uberdata which is free. At least then you also get ignition retard and then aren't being a total oakie with your setup.

 

can't wait.... i really need the drain plug that goes onto the oil pan

 

got my radiator but there are two extra bungs sticking out of it.. what is it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egturbo1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">got my radiator but there are two extra bungs sticking out of it.. what is it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Most likely for the tranny cooler. Are they barbed nipples at the bottom? Most aftermarket radiators are universal. Don't worry about them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most likely for the tranny cooler. Are they barbed nipples at the bottom? Most aftermarket radiators are universal. Don't worry about them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea they're barbed..

man guyz more delays.. i have to wait for the clutch to be installed first before i run the kit.. cuz i have stock clutch..

 

What psi are you starting at? You can still put the kit on with your stock clutch...I wouldn't let that stop you of all things. It'll take 6psi or so until you get the new clutch on there, just make the clutch your first priority though.