sitting engine question(s) please look ASAP
Thread Starter
B*a*n*n*e*d
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 402
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati, Ohio, United States
Okay so if a motor is sitting in a car, with out a hood for almost a year straight through all the elements of a year(rain, snow etc). At one time the hood was on the car and everything was in tact. then over time people began to strip/gank **** off it, hood, plug wires, fuel rail and injectors, intake etc. I have no idea when that happened, I just know it wasn't recently so probally 6+ months. Right now its current state is: It has a valve cover on it, and the plugs are still in it(with a little puddle of water in the plug wells mind you haha). it has an intake manifold on it. Could anything of happend to this motor? If so what? The only where water could have possibly got in was where the fuel rail was. Just want to know things to look out for. And things I should do before (attempting) to start the car after I put new plugs in it, wires, and a fuel rail and injectors. Was thinking take the valve cover off and visually inspect it. Poor some oil over the cams. check coolant and oil level. manually turn the motor over a few times. then turn the key and pray?
Modified by JadeGreenEF9 at 12:47 AM 10/13/2006
Modified by JadeGreenEF9 at 12:47 AM 10/13/2006
Thread Starter
B*a*n*n*e*d
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 402
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati, Ohio, United States
anyone? this is like rackin my brain here. Only reason im on here asking about it is I dont have the motor yet. The throttle body is is gonna be fine.. the exhaust ports I think would be fine since there vertical, and the head hangs out past them. Only thing im worried about is the holes for the fuel rail..because theives are dicks who cant even shove the injectors in the holes to save the motor. So water got down into the intake manifold. could have leaked through any valve that was open down into the cylinders. rust the cylinder walls. which isn't "too" big of a deal I'd just get the block honed and call it a day. what im more worried about is water seeping past the rings into the crank case, since I don't think their is any oil in the motor. well atleast when I pulled the dip stick out it was bone dry. im going tomorrow to get the car, so I guess if anyone cares i'll post the results after I pop the head off haha. thanks. anyone care to shed some light?
Thread Starter
B*a*n*n*e*d
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 402
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati, Ohio, United States
alright. well if anyone cares. I got a fully built LS for 100 bucks :D that I will in turn, make my money back plus some parting out the car that came with the motor. Motor has a DH racing head. took the valve cover off, has crower cams, dual valve springs and ti retainers and looks like it has been ported& polished. ARP head studs. will update once I take the head off and see whats in the block. Been told by numerous people. and the person who built the bottom end like a year ago, it has 10.5:1 forged pistons(dunno what kind yet), eagle rods, a block gaurd and im assuming it has ARP rod bolts as well since...who the hell puts a built motor together with stock rod bolts. motor also has a Skunk2 intake manifold and I also spyed an AEM fuel filter on the firewall. so thats a plus. Im assuming it has a walbro in it, but i'll check when I pick the car up monday. Not a bad deal for 100 bucks eh? i'll make more than that sellin the tranny off it. hmmm now debating on throwing my turbo kit on it now, and make sure its tuned GOOD. or put a thicker head gasket on it first to drop the CR down a bit. something in the 9.5 range
Modified by JadeGreenEF9 at 2:48 AM 10/15/2006
Modified by JadeGreenEF9 at 2:48 AM 10/15/2006
pour some Murphys miracle oil in the spark plug holes and let it sit as long as you can, pour it in now, crank it a few times with plugs out to blow this oil out and reinstall plugs.
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