I just got off the phone with a couple of Acura Dealerships and they said that when they do the timing belt and water pump, they also replace the other belts (A/C, Alternator, Power Steering).

Is it necessary to replace ALL of these belts? I can understand if they are worn or something, but 650$ (cdn) is a little ridiculous if I don't need it. I also called a honda dealer and they quoted $395...for just timing belt and water pump...sounds like they are just trying to get a few extra bucks out of me.

 

daym thats ridiculous. and yes, you should always replace all the belts. you never know when the other ones go out. then youre back to gettin **** done all over again. its costly.

i paid $265 for the waterpump, all belts, and the tensioner (which i also recommend replacing). the dealer was going to charge me $350 to have it installed, but i just did it myself. it was a little time consuming and it was a bitch to do. my mechanic was only chargin me $220 to put it on. im sure if you look around, youll find a guy who can do it for cheaper. i recommend finding someone who can do it... then buying the parts and having him do it instead (if you do not wanna try it on your own).

good luck man.

 

I'm sure the belts don't make up a whole lot of that price, belts are relatively cheap, and all of those have to come off anyway when you do the timing belt. It takes forever to change the timing belt, which is probably why the cost is so high. I did it myself to save money, but it also took all day and a trip to my friends house to get an impact wrench.

 

Yeah, I noticed on the quote from Honda, the water pump and timing belt were cheap and the labor was something like 230$....

Think I may just have to do that...find someone who knows their stuff and have them do it. Anyone up for a trip to Ottawa.

Thanks for the info guys!

 

anythjing under 500 us is a good deal for water pump, tensioner, timing belt, and all accy belts. Trust me, it is not a "hard" job, but it is still a big pain in the as$. And it's way cheaper than valves when it breaks.

 

yup.

 

Yea man you need to take the valve cover off, both timing covers, the drivers side upper engine mount, the cruise control solenoid, all the drive belts, the inner fender skin. Now the work begins. You have to take the 14mm tensioner bolt out 180deg, loosen the belt around the sprockets, I am pretty sure the crankpulley needs to be removed also. This I saw in the Integra Manual as well as the Haynes service manual. It involves keeping it still with a strap wrench while removing a 50+FT/LB bolt... while on your back... UGH! There is a sequence to putting it in that is helpflul to follow, making sure the 90deg refrence on the cam pulleys are dead on with the TDC marking on the crankpulley once that is all reinstalled. The tensioner is a great idea to replace... I recently did a head job on my car and I slid the timing belt back over the camsprockets, cranked it 3 teeth to make it snug from TDC and then re-tightened the tensioner bolt. It is also REALLY EASY to almost strip the head of the bolt rendering it almost un-usable. Once back together at +3,+2, it drove like a banshee for about a day, then it became slacked enough to flap against the lower timing cover. Trust me, this is a scary sound... especially if you just replaced exhaust valves due to mechanical overrev. It creates a sound similar to a spun rod bearing... I would take the man's advice and get the parts from a tech buddy and have him do it on the side. I am going to do timing belt, water pump, tensioner, new 14mm tensioner bolt and wait on the drive belts. I may do the drive belts, I only have 42500. I have ITR/Portflow springs, Ti retainers and CTR/ITR cams. On the GSR rockers they actually record higher lift due to the rocker ratio on the C1, this and the added valvetrain stress will actually wear on a belt more. I HATE THAT FLAPPING SOUND... I thought I had a blown motor... thank GOD for the simple problems!! 5/7/02... I cant wait!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

rev..rev..rev...rev...rreeEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA Aaaahhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

( the sound of a happy car with lots of new all motor toys I will finally be able to exploit with a taut, happy timing belt!!)

NOTE TO SELF AND OTHERS: if you are adjusting cam sprockets, only do so at TDC on cyl#1. line the cams up proper 90deg up and refrenced to one another and loosen the sprockets. keeping the belt stationary, take a 14mm open ended wrench and rotate the cams to the desired settings. Timing belt should not be moved. Torque down the cam sprockets, revarify tesion is unchanged, reassemble, crank over and reset base timing if intake cam is adjusted, bridge the
service connector behind the glovebox and set timing to 14-18BTDC @ 500 +/-50RPM. (B18C1) check your VECI label for actual engine idle speed per model.