Looking to see what fuel pressure I should be running w/ my setup?

CAI
AN-R Header (step down)
2.5" RSR Exhaust - 2 silencers
Crane Cams (stage 3 rollers)
MSD Ignition wires w/coil
Hondata S100
B&M FPR
Mahle 11.5:1 Pistons
H Beam Rods
Bored TB
UR Crank Pulley

I have no O2 sensor. It looks like the header was never designed for one.

Anyone running a built H22 with no O2? Why? ...What's the benefit?

How will this effect my fuel pressure setting?

Thanks guys!!


Modified by Speedjerk at 10:27 PM 10/10/2006

 

your header was ment to be taken to an exhaust shop and a O2 bung be welded into it for whatever application

since your OBD1, just weld in 1 o2 bung and then a second for wideband tuning you can cap off and eliminate the cat (if possible)

sounds like your a 4th gen....this for a 22 or 23
(judgement based on RSR Exhaust)

Grand Haven eh?
<--- Kalamazoo...well Portage/Galesburg is where I call home

 

you definately need an O2 otherwise you're just doing alot of guessing.

Fuel pressure can be in the 40-50 range just dont go changing it after you tune it.

Crane Roller Cams huh? I envy you.

 

whats so great about those cams?

fuel pressure essentially depends on the size of the injectors you use and the duty cycle of the injectors. Start at stock pressure and go from there. I sure hope you arent using stock injectors with that setup....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Speedjerk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I have no O2 sensor. It looks like the header was never designed for one.

Anyone running a built H22 with no O2? Why? ...What's the benefit?

How will this effect my fuel pressure setting?

Thanks guys!!


Modified by Speedjerk at 10:27 PM 10/10/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>

you need to take the header to an exhaust shop and have them weld atleast one o2 bung for a primary o2 sensor. If you want, you can have another one installed incase you buy a wideband.
Without a primary o2 sensor you will be running open loop all the time, so your tune had better be DAMN good. The only system that i would ever even consider running in open loop all the time is Neptune....but even then, i dont think the neptune program or any tuner is capable of making it run as good as with a primary o2 sensor aiding with part throttle fuel requirements.

open loop means that the ecu is not using signals from the o2 sensor in order to determine fuel requirements. Essentially, at a certain load/rpm (in open loop) the injector duration is set to one value and does not change.

Closed loop means that the ecu is getting help from signals coming from the o2 sensor in order to determine the fuel requirements. This allows for better fuel efficiency because it allows the ecu to know how the air and fuel is being burnt after the combustion has occurred and make minor adjustments to how much fuel to add or subtract from the preset injector duration per load/rpm.

running open loop (no use of the o2 sensor) all the time will in most cases result in poor fuel economy.

 

Hey hey, what's up neighbor? Little late night Honda talk? Cool Kzoo!! I used to party down there years ago. Anyway, yeah...it's the JDM H22a 4th gen VTEC. I think this joker blew the org. motor and bought this and then did a piston and cam up grade, but I'm not sure because he gave me no receipts. From the looks of it, I do not have an O2 installed and he never did a fabrication like you are talking about. The car has been running extremely rich and I just turned the pressure down from a WHOPPING 95psi to 30psi. Do you think that is too low? And do I have a Hondata installed / tuned if there is no O2? I don't think Hondata will work without an O2, will it?

Glad to see some neighbors are pitching in - pun intended - TIGERS RULE!!!!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Speedjerk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's the JDM H22a 4th gen VTEC. I think this joker blew the org. motor and bought this and then did a piston and cam up grade, but I'm not sure because he gave me no receipts. From the looks of it, I do not have an O2 installed and he never did a fabrication like you are talking about. The car has been running extremely rich and I just turned the pressure down from a WHOPPING 95psi to 30psi. Do you think that is too low? And do I have a Hondata installed / tuned if there is no O2? I don't think Hondata will work without an O2, will it?

Glad to see some neighbors are pitching in - pun intended - TIGERS RULE!!!!!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

95psi isnt possible AND you cant lower fuel pressure beyond the stock pressure with a B&M FPR which is 45-47psi with the vaccum line off. This is because the B&M FPR uses the bottom half of the stock regulator. Yes, hondata can be set to run in open loop all the time just like all the other complete EFI tuning programs.

I'd suggest getting the motor retuned and purchase a stock o2 sensor so you can enable closed loop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats so great about those cams?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

its not so much the cams as it is the rockers that go with it..

super light wieght, less friction, vtec killers


and holy expletive!! 95psi you'd have fuel sprayin out your exhaust, lol

 

fuel puddling anyone?

 

Very intelligent post (98vtec). That's why I'm here...to get a little insight from the true Honda enthusiasts. ...

How do I know whether or not they are stock injectors and what is stock fuel pressure on the JDM H22 at idle?

Oh by the way...my block says H22 (stamped below the upper cooling hose housing) -- not H22A1. However, my head says something about a P13 on the side...just above the exhaust ports. What's up with that??? I thought the JDM H22 ran a p28 program. Is this what this little stamp indicates?

SHOOT...I think gas prices go up every time I turn this thing over. ...Talk about supply and demand....this thing demands a GAL/mile. No Joke. Since I have turned the static pressure down to 30, it seems to run a lot better...or at least the smell of gas is no longer present. I've also notice better fuel economy. However, I think the damage is done because I see puffs of blue smoke at times after hard acceleration into VTEC. Also, I am reading 0psi oil pressure at (warm) idle. I have an Auto Meter gage that reads up to (I think) 150psi. At cold start engine reads 30psi than slowly drops to 0psi after about 10-15 minutes of warm up. During a quick start and go, pressure rises quickly up to 75psi upon loaded acceleration up to a shift point of 4-5kRPM. When warm, pressure reads 23psi at a 2500 RPM cruise and 30psi @ 3000 RPM cruise. When accelerating into VTEC when warm gage pegs out at approx. 70psi.

I bought the car two months ago as an advertised "FULLY BUILT H22" that had only 1500 miles on it. Guy said it was never tuned and never run with N2O; however, he gave me a wet ZEK kit he said he never installed. Then last week I noticed a nipple screwed into the top of my IM with a 1/4 hose attached to it w. a screw in the bottom. ...CAN YOU SAY SUCKER. I attribute this to that "GIANT SUCKING SOUND" Ross Perot talked about years ago. My question is...

1. Do I have a bearing problem? ( I don't think its a bad gage because it reads good upon initial start-up.)

2. Do you think I have excessive blow-by in the cylinders due to the rings never seating properly from the 95+ fuel pressure this guy ran the car with? Would this cause the oil pressure to drop at a warm idle?

3. Is there a good chance it's valve seals or a bad valve?

4. Should I just sell the car AS IS...letting the buyer know it has problems, but I don't know what? I feel this car is out of my league and I am having a tuft time getting help from local techs. I don't want to spend any money on it. I bought the car thinking it was a professional build that would last for many years...trouble free.

Please help guys. I appreciate everything you have done so far, but I need more input and ADVICE. Thanks


Modified by Speedjerk at 12:40 AM 10/11/2006

 

leakdown and compression test will tell you alot.

 

its possible you could have washer the cylinders down with fuel and caused a few probs that way. what does the oil look like? Theres plenty of info and help here if you need it.

BTW are you sure you have roller cams in there?