Well this hasport cable-hydro conversion isn't working out for me. I'm using this kit in my crx, with an exedy twin disc. Pedal bracket's been re-enforced as well as the actual pedal. But i'm having a problem snapping clutch cables since it's so hard to press it in. So i decided to try and convert to a real deal hydro setup. I'm checking out Wilwood's pedal as well as there clutch master cylinder and it seems like i can get it to work. I have a question on what size clutch master cylinder i should get though. They have .625 .700 and .750" bore. Which size would you guys recommend getting? And do you think it'll work?!? Here are the links of the pedal i'll be using, as well as the wilwood master cylinder. Then i'll just run a stainless line to the stock honda slave cylinder. Pic of my setup as well for s**** and giggles if anyone can help me out that'll be great.
http://wilwood.com/Products/00...x.asp
http://wilwood.com/Products/00...x.asp

 

Can you physically fit the master cylinder in there? Wouldn't it hit the intake manifold?

Awesome idea though. I've heard of some people doing the conversion, but I don't know how it was done.

Good luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can you physically fit the master cylinder in there? Wouldn't it hit the intake manifold?

Awesome idea though. I've heard of some people doing the conversion, but I don't know how it was done.

Good luck! </TD></TR></TABLE>

I will be using the stock hole for the original clutch cable to mount it...... i measured everything up and it seems like it will work. I'll be about 3 inches away from the throttle body.

 

Just copy 2point2's hydro setup. It seems to be working excellent for him with his h22 CRX.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_ED3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just copy 2point2's hydro setup. It seems to be working excellent for him with his h22 CRX. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I searched for his thread... pretty cool idea. Unfortunately i don't think it'll work with my setup. That "interior brace bar" is backwards on my car since it is rhd. Mounting that prelude clutch master cylinder would kinda need a lot of fabrication. I wish i could find a reverse swing clutch pedal like tilton used to make back in the day. I found a couple online, but they have dual master cylinders

 

ah, I didn't even notice in your picture that your car is RHD.

As far as the bore option, I'd say go as big as you can. Especially if you're going to use a very stiff clutch, just to make the pedal effort less. Unless you like stiff pedal effort, like some do.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_ED3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ah, I didn't even notice in your picture that your car is RHD.

As far as the bore option, I'd say go as big as you can. Especially if you're going to use a very stiff clutch, just to make the pedal effort less. Unless you like stiff pedal effort, like some do.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The smaller the master cylinder the less pedal pressure it will take to actuate the clutch but it adds more stroke. The larger the mc the more pedal pressure it will take with less stroke.

I run the reverse mount tilton pedal with a 3/4" (.750) mc and it works fine. I'm also using a tilton hydrolic t'/o bearing so I dont know how well that size would work for a stock slave cylinder.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TrueNorthStar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I run the reverse mount tilton pedal with a 3/4" (.750) mc and it works fine. I'm also using a tilton hydrolic t'/o bearing so I dont know how well that size would work for a stock slave cylinder.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea i wanted to use a reverse mount pedal.. . but no one makes it anymore believe it or not! Tilton only sells them as a set, and wilwood only makes one that uses 2 master cylinders.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by theinfamouskonrad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yea i wanted to use a reverse mount pedal.. . but no one makes it anymore believe it or not! Tilton only sells them as a set, and wilwood only makes one that uses 2 master cylinders. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn that sucks!

Did you try looking around to see if any of their vendors/distibutors might have some left over stock?

 

I did some looking around online, CNC Brakes still make reverse mount single pedals. You can pick them up at http://www.chassisshop.com.

I've bought a few things from this company in the past and they have never let me down, lots of people swear by them in the weld/fab forum.

 

nice they actually make one still! Yea i'm checking out this cnc one and i think i'm going to go with this route instead. Question for you truenorthstar.... you think with the stock slave cylinder that i should get the 3/4" master cylinder like your using... or should i just get a 7/8" one instead? and they pedal length is 12 1/4" for a 6:1 ratio, do you think that's enough, or should i go with a bigger ratio?

 

The bigger you go the stiffer your pedal effort will be and the smaller your engagement distance will be.

But like I said earlier, I use the tilton t/o bearing and it definitely affects my setup.

I'm not sure what the size the stock m/c is or the stroke ratio of a stock hydro pedal on a Honda is.

If you can get me the size of the stock m/c and some measurements off a stock Honda hydro pedal I could do the calculations for you to get the right size m/c.

 

Just wondering. Seems like you're putting yourself through a lot of
hassles when there is the YS1 available.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WWDTrackRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just wondering. Seems like you're putting yourself through a lot of
hassles when there is the YS1 available.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i know.... i used to have one and i know i should have kept it. But now i kinda have to keep it. Type r tranny completely rebuilt by gear-speed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by theinfamouskonrad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i know.... i used to have one and i know i should have kept it. But now i kinda have to keep it. Type r tranny completely rebuilt by gear-speed </TD></TR></TABLE>

Still cheaper to buy a YS1 tranny. Swap your rebuilt ITR guts over into it.
Bam done. None of this hydro stuff nonsense.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WWDTrackRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Still cheaper to buy a YS1 tranny. Swap your rebuilt ITR guts over into it.
Bam done. None of this hydro stuff nonsense.</TD></TR></TABLE>

he would still have the same problem with snapping cables, if he wants to run the clutch he has to go hydro, did you check out the willwood hydro throwout bearing setup that completely bypasses the bearing fork

 

You have an advantage with RHD as you have room to place the master cylinder in the engine bay. I am going to attempt to install a clutch M/C on my EF (LHD) from a 94 teg. I stripped the pedal and m/c out and now will be removing the interior from my EF to try and fab this in. Because I have no room in the engine bay (The strut tower is blocking me on the LHD) I will have to modify the pedal assy to move the m/c inside the car and have the reservoir in the bay.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

he would still have the same problem with snapping cables, if he wants to run the clutch he has to go hydro, did you check out the willwood hydro throwout bearing setup that completely bypasses the bearing fork</TD></TR></TABLE>
no he wouldnt, with the hasport kit the key is lubrication of hte hydro mechinism

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TrueNorthStar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not sure what the size the stock m/c is</TD></TR></TABLE>
All of the OEM Civic/Integra/del Sol clutch master cylinders I have seen are marked 5/8" (0.625", ~15.9mm).

For reference, the Omnipower Quicklutch piece is 21mm (~0.827", which is between 13/16" and 27/32"). With the OEM slave cylinder (I don't know the size), Omni claims it reduces pedal travel (and increases pedal effort) by about 50% compared to the 5/8" MC.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
he would still have the same problem with snapping cables, if he wants to run the clutch he has to go hydro, did you check out the willwood hydro throwout bearing setup that completely bypasses the bearing fork</TD></TR></TABLE>

I used to run a dual-diaphragm Action clutch on my YS1 for 2 years of daily driving. I never snapped the cable. Is his clutch stiffer than that? wow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WWDTrackRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I used to run a dual-diaphragm Action clutch on my YS1 for 2 years of daily driving. I never snapped the cable. Is his clutch stiffer than that? wow.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe the hasport kit is why the clutch is so stiff. idk how i can describe it but the only way i'm able to drive on the street is by having my seat all the way forward, and having to grasp the steering wheel with both hands to engage the clutch **praying it won't snap everytime i push it in I've went through genuine honda clutch cables, as well as better brand "autozone" ones such as the beck+arnley. If you press the brake pedal in while the car is off, that's how my clutch feels times 2. I know if i would have kept an actual cable tranny that it would be way easier, but i believe converting to hydrolic you can actually "feel" the clutch more

 

Yah the Hydro conversion aint that great. I've read tons of problems with it.
Anyway... Larry @ Endyn went to YS1 still had problems

http://www.theoldone.com/artic...c.htm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Endyn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As you recall, I've never been terribly satisfied with the clutch action afforded by the combination of my modified Hasport cable/hydraulic conversion kit and the ClutchMaster's twin disk clutch. I've had the clutch for almost a year (saving it for the project) and nobody could remember if it incorporated the max-race, or the street diaphragm, so I had CM ship the street unit to me for a trial run. While the transmission was out, I swapped all the gears into a new YS1 tranny case I purchased new from Acura. My thinking was that the factory cable throw-out arm assembly would be superior to the modded Hasport....but it really wasn't any better. The releasing the clutch still required almost the entire travel of the pedal, with full disengagement occurring with the pedal very near the floor. This was definitely not making driving fun.

I called Chris Jewell (formerly of CM) and now at Competition Clutch. Chris sent me one of his twin disk clutch / flywheel kits. While appearing similar to the CM unit, the CC set-up uses an entirely different flywheel step and pressure plate positioning. While pedal pressure (with the street diaphragm) was still high, the clutch did provide less pedal travel for engagement and better overall drivability. The issues confronting cable twin disk users are the result of two things. First, the throw-out bearings are so large in diameter that the don't contact the inner edges of the diaphragms, but rather the middle of the fingers, resulting in poor mechanical advantage.....and high pedal pressure. Second, the distance from the rear of the throw-out bearing (where it contacts the throw-out arm) to the face of the bearing that contacts the clutch fingers needs to be increased about .100".This will prevent the throw-out arm from going so far over-center, which once again adversely affects mechanical advantage. I'm currently working on remedies for both of these problems along with Chris Jewell.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by theinfamouskonrad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I believe the hasport kit is why the clutch is so stiff. idk how i can describe it but the only way i'm able to drive on the street is by having my seat all the way forward, and having to grasp the steering wheel with both hands to engage the clutch **praying it won't snap everytime i push it in I've went through genuine honda clutch cables, as well as better brand "autozone" ones such as the beck+arnley. If you press the brake pedal in while the car is off, that's how my clutch feels times 2. I know if i would have kept an actual cable tranny that it would be way easier, but i believe converting to hydrolic you can actually "feel" the clutch more</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn!

I run the Tilton Twin Disk (Carbon/carbon) with my setup and I would have to say the actuall pedal pressure for me is lighter than a stock "D" cable clutch with about 1/4 pedal travel from fully engaged to full release