How-To: OBD-0 to OBD-1 Conversion Harness Starter
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
From: Peoria, IL, 61604
How-To: OBD-0 to OBD-1 Conversion Harness Starter
Guys
This is only the first few steps in creating an OBD-0 to OBD-1 conversion harness. Feel free to add if you would like.
Synopsis
Last tuesday I sourced a complete D16Z6 for my CRX. My initial plan was to just swap the OBD-0 stuff over and use the PM6 ECU. Having done several of these swaps in the past, and knowing the ease of isntallation, it seemed like a good idea. I did not like the bounds needed to go to, to tune however (comparison of PM6 to P28) and after much research and soul searching, I decided on wednesday that I wanted to go OBD-1 and run a P28.
I hopped on ebay, trying to find a P28. Some were going for over 150, etc, im not sure why. Within a few minutes and some 'obscure' searching, I found an oddly worded P28 Ecu. It only had 2 hours left on the auction and was going for 72 dollars. I sniper-bid at the last moment and got it for 102 (fair I would say.) The bonus to this ECU was that the seller was including the P28 OBD-1 connectors (A,B,D) with 8+ inches of bare wire. I knew I was going to have to make my own conversion harness because the swap ABSOLUTELY HAD to be done this weekend and there was no way I could get one from rywire in-time.
After me and the seller talked on the phone for a while, and I told him what I was doing, he offered up an OBD-0 ECU for free in the deal. Perfect! Exactly what I need to make my own clean harness.
I received the ECU on Friday and began to get to work. The first thing you're going to need to do is remove the motherboard/connectors from the ECU casing. This can be easily accomplished. If you cant figure this out, then I wouldnt suggest trying to create your own conversion harness.
Here is the motherboard out with the necessary tools for desoldering/depinning the connections. I uses a very simple desolering tool which acts like a vaccum. It has a spring loaded clip in which you head the solder up to liquid form, place the pen over the solder, and fire the trigger. It sucks the solder up really quick, but you need to be fast as to not let the solder dry. I use a continuous solder gun (the cheap kind) because I hate waiting for the gun to warm up (if you use a nicer trigger style gun)
Rotate the ECU so that the female connections are pointing towards you
To get the technique down, you can begin by desoldering the screws that hold the ECU connectors down. For some reason Honda decided to fill the philleps screws with solder. Head the screw head up until you can see the pool of solder develop. Once you have done that, place the desolder tool over the screw and fire away. It should suck up most of the solder. Repeat if necessary.
Here you can see the holding screws, cleaned out and ready for removal.
I did not capture any pictures of the actual pins that need to be desoldered, but you can easy verify which ones ned to, by flipping the board over, and actually following the hard lines out of the ECU connectors, and down into the board. The same above method for desoldering applies to desoldering these ECU connections
Here you can see I have completely desoldered the connections for Connector A, and have removed the connector.
I have begun working on the B and C connectors. Here's what the connections on the bottom of the board look like, after desoldering them. Notice the holes
Now both connectors are out and the P28 connectors/pigtails
Donor P28
Connectors plugged in.
Now you're ready to start soldering wires from the pigtail to the connectors.
Good luck!
This is only the first few steps in creating an OBD-0 to OBD-1 conversion harness. Feel free to add if you would like.
Synopsis
Last tuesday I sourced a complete D16Z6 for my CRX. My initial plan was to just swap the OBD-0 stuff over and use the PM6 ECU. Having done several of these swaps in the past, and knowing the ease of isntallation, it seemed like a good idea. I did not like the bounds needed to go to, to tune however (comparison of PM6 to P28) and after much research and soul searching, I decided on wednesday that I wanted to go OBD-1 and run a P28.
I hopped on ebay, trying to find a P28. Some were going for over 150, etc, im not sure why. Within a few minutes and some 'obscure' searching, I found an oddly worded P28 Ecu. It only had 2 hours left on the auction and was going for 72 dollars. I sniper-bid at the last moment and got it for 102 (fair I would say.) The bonus to this ECU was that the seller was including the P28 OBD-1 connectors (A,B,D) with 8+ inches of bare wire. I knew I was going to have to make my own conversion harness because the swap ABSOLUTELY HAD to be done this weekend and there was no way I could get one from rywire in-time.
After me and the seller talked on the phone for a while, and I told him what I was doing, he offered up an OBD-0 ECU for free in the deal. Perfect! Exactly what I need to make my own clean harness.
I received the ECU on Friday and began to get to work. The first thing you're going to need to do is remove the motherboard/connectors from the ECU casing. This can be easily accomplished. If you cant figure this out, then I wouldnt suggest trying to create your own conversion harness.
Here is the motherboard out with the necessary tools for desoldering/depinning the connections. I uses a very simple desolering tool which acts like a vaccum. It has a spring loaded clip in which you head the solder up to liquid form, place the pen over the solder, and fire the trigger. It sucks the solder up really quick, but you need to be fast as to not let the solder dry. I use a continuous solder gun (the cheap kind) because I hate waiting for the gun to warm up (if you use a nicer trigger style gun)
Rotate the ECU so that the female connections are pointing towards you
To get the technique down, you can begin by desoldering the screws that hold the ECU connectors down. For some reason Honda decided to fill the philleps screws with solder. Head the screw head up until you can see the pool of solder develop. Once you have done that, place the desolder tool over the screw and fire away. It should suck up most of the solder. Repeat if necessary.
Here you can see the holding screws, cleaned out and ready for removal.
I did not capture any pictures of the actual pins that need to be desoldered, but you can easy verify which ones ned to, by flipping the board over, and actually following the hard lines out of the ECU connectors, and down into the board. The same above method for desoldering applies to desoldering these ECU connections
Here you can see I have completely desoldered the connections for Connector A, and have removed the connector.
I have begun working on the B and C connectors. Here's what the connections on the bottom of the board look like, after desoldering them. Notice the holes
Now both connectors are out and the P28 connectors/pigtails
Donor P28
Connectors plugged in.
Now you're ready to start soldering wires from the pigtail to the connectors.
Good luck!
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,038
Likes: 3
From: Kitchener, On, Canada
Re: (Tw1n Turb0 Z)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tw1n Turb0 Z »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All the rest is covered in FAQ
I used the 'complete OBD-0 > OBD-1 pinout guide found in FAQ and it worked just fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I highly doubt it. All OBD0 to OBD1 pinouts I've seen here ask for the same wires in 2 different spots. I did mine with 2 ECU print out from Partsource, and I matched them all one by one and it worked great for me!
I used the 'complete OBD-0 > OBD-1 pinout guide found in FAQ and it worked just fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I highly doubt it. All OBD0 to OBD1 pinouts I've seen here ask for the same wires in 2 different spots. I did mine with 2 ECU print out from Partsource, and I matched them all one by one and it worked great for me!
So by reading this all i have to do is wire the obd0 A1 pin to the obd1 A1 pin,obd0 A2 to the obd1 A7 and so on...?
OBD0-OBD1 ECU Pinout
A1 -> A1
A2 -> A7
A3 -> A3
A4 -> ADD
A5 -> A5
A6 -> ADD
A7 -> A12/A14
A9 -> A11
A12 -> B4
A13 -> B6
A15 -> B3
A16 -> B5
A21 -> B15
A23 -> A2
A24 -> A4
A25 -> A13
A26 -> A18/A16
B1 -> A15
B2 -> A16/A18
B5 -> B8
B9 -> B13
B10 -> B16
B11 -> B10
B12 -> B12
B13 -> C3
B14 -> C4
B15 -> C1
B16 -> C2
D1 -> B1
D2 -> C10
D3 -> ADD
D4 -> mil
D6 -> ADD
D9 -> B14
D10 -> B19
D11 -> C7
D13 -> C6
D14 -> C16
D15 -> C5
D17 -> C11
D19 -> C15
D20 -> C13
D21 -> C14
D22 -> C12
OBD0-OBD1 ECU Pinout
A1 -> A1
A2 -> A7
A3 -> A3
A4 -> ADD
A5 -> A5
A6 -> ADD
A7 -> A12/A14
A9 -> A11
A12 -> B4
A13 -> B6
A15 -> B3
A16 -> B5
A21 -> B15
A23 -> A2
A24 -> A4
A25 -> A13
A26 -> A18/A16
B1 -> A15
B2 -> A16/A18
B5 -> B8
B9 -> B13
B10 -> B16
B11 -> B10
B12 -> B12
B13 -> C3
B14 -> C4
B15 -> C1
B16 -> C2
D1 -> B1
D2 -> C10
D3 -> ADD
D4 -> mil
D6 -> ADD
D9 -> B14
D10 -> B19
D11 -> C7
D13 -> C6
D14 -> C16
D15 -> C5
D17 -> C11
D19 -> C15
D20 -> C13
D21 -> C14
D22 -> C12
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,732
Likes: 3
From: Ft. Hood
Re: (ludesrv)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludesrv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I highly doubt it. All OBD0 to OBD1 pinouts I've seen here ask for the same wires in 2 different spots. I did mine with 2 ECU print out from Partsource, and I matched them all one by one and it worked great for me!</TD></TR></TABLE> Mine doesn't have the same wires in two different spots 
I've been CEL free for five months now woot!
I've been CEL free for five months now woot!
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
From: Peoria, IL, 61604
Re: (dr_latino999)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Mine doesn't have the same wires in two different spots I've been CEL free for five months now woot!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Tru....I followed dr latino's post (updated 6/10/2006) and it was spot on.
Since I'm using a P28, I did not have EGR or the Power Steering connections, but its pretty simple to figure out that if the wire doesnt exist in the harness, then it probably isnt on your car
I've been CEL free for five months now woot!</TD></TR></TABLE>Tru....I followed dr latino's post (updated 6/10/2006) and it was spot on.
Since I'm using a P28, I did not have EGR or the Power Steering connections, but its pretty simple to figure out that if the wire doesnt exist in the harness, then it probably isnt on your car
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
From: Peoria, IL, 61604
Re: (E_F_9)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E_F_9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So by reading this all i have to do is wire the obd0 A1 pin to the obd1 A1 pin,obd0 A2 to the obd1 A7 and so on...?
OBD0-OBD1 ECU Pinout
A1 -> A1
A2 -> A7
A3 -> A3
A4 -> ADD
A5 -> A5
A6 -> ADD
A7 -> A12/A14
A9 -> A11
A12 -> B4
A13 -> B6
A15 -> B3
A16 -> B5
A21 -> B15
A23 -> A2
A24 -> A4
A25 -> A13
A26 -> A18/A16
B1 -> A15
B2 -> A16/A18
B5 -> B8
B9 -> B13
B10 -> B16
B11 -> B10
B12 -> B12
B13 -> C3
B14 -> C4
B15 -> C1
B16 -> C2
D1 -> B1
D2 -> C10
D3 -> ADD
D4 -> mil
D6 -> ADD
D9 -> B14
D10 -> B19
D11 -> C7
D13 -> C6
D14 -> C16
D15 -> C5
D17 -> C11
D19 -> C15
D20 -> C13
D21 -> C14
D22 -> C12</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im not sure where you located that pin out........
A2 is PG1 (obd-0) and A7 is the fuel relay (obd-1) those certainly wouldnt match up. The list goes on of inaccuracies there. You should follow this
OBD-0 --> OBD-1 HARNESS CONNECTIONS: PROOF-READ BY TURBOGIXXER
A01 - INJ #1 --> A01 - INJ #1
A02 - PG1 --> A23 - PG1
A03 - INJ #2 --> A03 - INJ #2
A04 - PG2 --> A24 - PG2
A05 - INJ #3 --> A05 - INJ #3
A06 - PCS --> A20 - PCS
A07 - INJ #4 --> A02 - INJ #4
A08 - LOCKSOL --> XXXXXXXXXXX
A09 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX
A10 - EGR CSV--> A11
A11 - IACV --> A09 - IACV
A12 - FLR1 --> A07 - FLR1
A13 - IGP1 --> A25 - IGP1
A14 - FLR2 --> A08 - FLR2
A15 - IGP2 --> B01 - IGP2
A16 - GRD --> A26 - LG1
A17 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX
A18 - GRD --> B02 - LG2
B01 - VBP --> D01 - VBU
B02 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX
B03 - ACC --> A15 - ACC
B04 - FANC --> A12 - FANC
B05 - ALT --> A16 - ALT
B06 - MIL --> A13 - MIL
B07 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX
B08 - ACS --> B05 - ACS
B09 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX
B10 - CYP P --> B11 - CYP P
B11 - FUSEBOX--> xxxxxxxxxxxx
B12 - CYP M --> B12 - CYP M
B13 - FUSEBOX--> B09 - STARTER
B14 - ALT --> D09 - ALT
B15 - Igniti --> A21 - ICM
B16 - VSS --> B10 - VSS
B17 - Igniti --> A22 - ICM
B18 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX
B19 - ELD --> D10 - ELD
B20 - SCS --> D04 - SCS
C01 - CKP P --> B15 - CKP P
C02 - CKP M --> B16 - CKP M
C03 - TDC P --> B13 - TDC P
C04 - TDC M --> B14 - TDC M
C05 - IAT --> D15 - IAT
C06 - ECT --> D13 - ECT
C07 - TPS --> D11 - TPS
C08 - EGR VLS--> D12
C09 - PA --> NOTUSEDXXXXX
C10 - BKSW --> D02 - BKSW
C11 - MILGRND--> D17 - MAP
C12 - SG2 --> D22 - SG2
C13 - VCC1 --> D19 - VCC1
C14 - SG1 --> D21 - SG1
C15 - VCC2 --> D20 - VCC2
C16 - O2S --> D14 - PHO2S
You will also then need to run wires into the cabin area for your o2 sensor and VTEC pressure/solenoid
OBD0-OBD1 ECU Pinout
A1 -> A1
A2 -> A7
A3 -> A3
A4 -> ADD
A5 -> A5
A6 -> ADD
A7 -> A12/A14
A9 -> A11
A12 -> B4
A13 -> B6
A15 -> B3
A16 -> B5
A21 -> B15
A23 -> A2
A24 -> A4
A25 -> A13
A26 -> A18/A16
B1 -> A15
B2 -> A16/A18
B5 -> B8
B9 -> B13
B10 -> B16
B11 -> B10
B12 -> B12
B13 -> C3
B14 -> C4
B15 -> C1
B16 -> C2
D1 -> B1
D2 -> C10
D3 -> ADD
D4 -> mil
D6 -> ADD
D9 -> B14
D10 -> B19
D11 -> C7
D13 -> C6
D14 -> C16
D15 -> C5
D17 -> C11
D19 -> C15
D20 -> C13
D21 -> C14
D22 -> C12</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im not sure where you located that pin out........
A2 is PG1 (obd-0) and A7 is the fuel relay (obd-1) those certainly wouldnt match up. The list goes on of inaccuracies there. You should follow this
OBD-0 --> OBD-1 HARNESS CONNECTIONS: PROOF-READ BY TURBOGIXXER
A01 - INJ #1 --> A01 - INJ #1
A02 - PG1 --> A23 - PG1
A03 - INJ #2 --> A03 - INJ #2
A04 - PG2 --> A24 - PG2
A05 - INJ #3 --> A05 - INJ #3
A06 - PCS --> A20 - PCS
A07 - INJ #4 --> A02 - INJ #4
A08 - LOCKSOL --> XXXXXXXXXXX
A09 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX
A10 - EGR CSV--> A11
A11 - IACV --> A09 - IACV
A12 - FLR1 --> A07 - FLR1
A13 - IGP1 --> A25 - IGP1
A14 - FLR2 --> A08 - FLR2
A15 - IGP2 --> B01 - IGP2
A16 - GRD --> A26 - LG1
A17 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX
A18 - GRD --> B02 - LG2
B01 - VBP --> D01 - VBU
B02 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX
B03 - ACC --> A15 - ACC
B04 - FANC --> A12 - FANC
B05 - ALT --> A16 - ALT
B06 - MIL --> A13 - MIL
B07 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX
B08 - ACS --> B05 - ACS
B09 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX
B10 - CYP P --> B11 - CYP P
B11 - FUSEBOX--> xxxxxxxxxxxx
B12 - CYP M --> B12 - CYP M
B13 - FUSEBOX--> B09 - STARTER
B14 - ALT --> D09 - ALT
B15 - Igniti --> A21 - ICM
B16 - VSS --> B10 - VSS
B17 - Igniti --> A22 - ICM
B18 - NOTUSED--> XXXXXXXXXXXX
B19 - ELD --> D10 - ELD
B20 - SCS --> D04 - SCS
C01 - CKP P --> B15 - CKP P
C02 - CKP M --> B16 - CKP M
C03 - TDC P --> B13 - TDC P
C04 - TDC M --> B14 - TDC M
C05 - IAT --> D15 - IAT
C06 - ECT --> D13 - ECT
C07 - TPS --> D11 - TPS
C08 - EGR VLS--> D12
C09 - PA --> NOTUSEDXXXXX
C10 - BKSW --> D02 - BKSW
C11 - MILGRND--> D17 - MAP
C12 - SG2 --> D22 - SG2
C13 - VCC1 --> D19 - VCC1
C14 - SG1 --> D21 - SG1
C15 - VCC2 --> D20 - VCC2
C16 - O2S --> D14 - PHO2S
You will also then need to run wires into the cabin area for your o2 sensor and VTEC pressure/solenoid
O ok thanks,i found that pinout online and people said they used it and it worked but i dunno i guess if yours works i'll go with it.So this is just running a wire between A01 and A01 and a wire between A02 and A23 and so on?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,262
Likes: 2
From: long island, ny, usa
Re: How-To: OBD-0 to OBD-1 Conversion Harness Starter (Tw1n Turb0 Z)
this is a very cool post.
someone adding real info to this section of the forums.
i have an old pm5 dx ecu, can i use those connectors to make a conversion harness for an obd1 b16, should be the same, right?
someone adding real info to this section of the forums.
i have an old pm5 dx ecu, can i use those connectors to make a conversion harness for an obd1 b16, should be the same, right?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
From: Peoria, IL, 61604
Re: (E_F_9)
Keep on the lookout, I'm going to be compiling "The Complete Guide to Installing an OBD-1 D16Z6 in your MPFI CRX" in the next day or two.
I would have started on it today but my camera died when i started taking pictures last night of how I did everything.
My goal is for someone to be able to print it out and just gather all the parts listed, and go to town
I couldnt find one single point of reference for the swap, and I figured this would be really handy to have considering I had to piece together 5-10 different web sites/resources to get this thing done successfully.
I will be noting 100% correct ECU pin-outs, as well as o2 sensor wiring, and dizzy wiring.
I would have started on it today but my camera died when i started taking pictures last night of how I did everything.
My goal is for someone to be able to print it out and just gather all the parts listed, and go to town
I couldnt find one single point of reference for the swap, and I figured this would be really handy to have considering I had to piece together 5-10 different web sites/resources to get this thing done successfully.
I will be noting 100% correct ECU pin-outs, as well as o2 sensor wiring, and dizzy wiring.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,407
Likes: 5
From: Locash
Re: (Tw1n Turb0 Z)
This writeup beat mine by literally days. Oh well. Hold shift, delete.
E_F_9, what is your question?
Just because the engine runs and there are no CELs doesn't mean it's right. The fuel pump just needs 12volts. There are plenty of 12V outputs on the ECU. If you have the wrong one, it will work, but you'll probably get stupid/weird stuff happening. Same thing with the sensors. Electricity is electricity, whether it's coming from a MAP sensor or a Coolant sensor. If the voltage is within the range that the ECU is looking for, it's not going to know which sensor is sending it. But clearly you're not getting the most from the engine. Don't be one of the 1000s of posts from people that have strange problems that there's no answer for.
People's standards of success are very wrong. They think if the engine doesn't blow up, it's a success.
Modified by suspendedHatch at 12:01 AM 10/11/2006
E_F_9, what is your question?
Just because the engine runs and there are no CELs doesn't mean it's right. The fuel pump just needs 12volts. There are plenty of 12V outputs on the ECU. If you have the wrong one, it will work, but you'll probably get stupid/weird stuff happening. Same thing with the sensors. Electricity is electricity, whether it's coming from a MAP sensor or a Coolant sensor. If the voltage is within the range that the ECU is looking for, it's not going to know which sensor is sending it. But clearly you're not getting the most from the engine. Don't be one of the 1000s of posts from people that have strange problems that there's no answer for.
People's standards of success are very wrong. They think if the engine doesn't blow up, it's a success.
Modified by suspendedHatch at 12:01 AM 10/11/2006
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,262
Likes: 2
From: long island, ny, usa
Re: (suspendedHatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
People's standards of success are very wrong. They think if the engine doesn't blow up, it's a success.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is so true.
the only way to really do anything is with both Helms manuals in front of you, one for the recipient car, and the other for the car the engine originally came from.
thats why i keep these handy =D
/server/literature/PDF
/Honda Civic EF (88-91) Service Manual
/Honda Civic EF (1990) VTEC Supplement [b16a]
/Honda Civic EG (92-95) Service Manual
/Honda Civic EK (96-00) Service Manual
/Honda Civic EK (96-98) Service Manual
/Honda Civic EP (02-03) Service Manual
/Honda CRV (1997) System Wiring Diagrams
/Honda Del Sol (1997) System Wiring Diagrams
/Honda Integra (1993) Service Manual [b18a]
/Honda Integra (1994) Service Manual [b18c]
/Honda Integra (1998-01) Service Manual [b18b,c1,c5]
/Honda Integra (2002-03) Service Manual [k20]
People's standards of success are very wrong. They think if the engine doesn't blow up, it's a success.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is so true.
the only way to really do anything is with both Helms manuals in front of you, one for the recipient car, and the other for the car the engine originally came from.
thats why i keep these handy =D
/server/literature/PDF
/Honda Civic EF (88-91) Service Manual
/Honda Civic EF (1990) VTEC Supplement [b16a]
/Honda Civic EG (92-95) Service Manual
/Honda Civic EK (96-00) Service Manual
/Honda Civic EK (96-98) Service Manual
/Honda Civic EP (02-03) Service Manual
/Honda CRV (1997) System Wiring Diagrams
/Honda Del Sol (1997) System Wiring Diagrams
/Honda Integra (1993) Service Manual [b18a]
/Honda Integra (1994) Service Manual [b18c]
/Honda Integra (1998-01) Service Manual [b18b,c1,c5]
/Honda Integra (2002-03) Service Manual [k20]
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