Hi all,
93, Honda Accord EX, Automatic, 161K

Is there a way to check if my Ignintion/Ignitor Module Control to see if it is bad?
The dealer told me I need a new one? ~~~ $280.00

I was wondering if there is a way to check it?

Also the dealer said i need new Oxygen Sensor.
I think it is the connection not the Sensor itself.
Any way to check oxygen Sensor to see if it is bad?


Thank you all guys,
Joe M.

 

What codes does the ECU have stored? Use the link
http://members.troublecodes.ne...n.jpg
You can test the ignitor by removing the dist. cap; Turn the key 'on', then put the coil wire close to ground so you can watch for spark. then use a test light probe to touch the terminals of the ignitor, the Green wire terminal is the one that the ECU grounds to make the spark jump.
You might try 'search' for more info.
Majestic Honda has a website with parts and prices.

 

I use a regular test light on the coil negative, this is not the best way to test as it takes experience to see a borderline flash that is usually a bad sign, the test light will flash if the ignitor is good but so will a weak or just barely bad ignitor, no flash of course is a bad ignitor. An LED would probably be a better tester but you would need a good ignitor to use as a baseline.

The next test will be at coil negative and use a dwell meter, I believe that a dwell of less than 4 is a bad ignitor but dont quote me on that, this means that the ignitor is pulsing but only for a little while (4) and the coil cant charge up enough to create a spark with a quick little charge time, I have only heard of this method and I personally have never tried it even though I own a dwell meter from the old days of adjusting points in the distributor, escentially, it means the same thing, today it is a set of electronic points (transistor switches).

Because I do so many Honda distributor repairs, I have good spare coils and ignitors on hand for diagnosing the poor mans way, quick test light check, quick ignitor or coil swap based on test light observation, if that was the wrong guess, swap out the other part, I have proven which part is bad since I now have spark BUT as a professional, I recommend that both be changed but it is not my money so the customer has the last say.

Back to the test light, it will be on KOEO, the ECM grounds it and the test light looses power, the longer the dwell, the dimmer (or longer) the test light will go off (appear to flash while cranking). Different types of test lights of course have different resistance (ohms) light bulbs and they all will act differently, this is where your personal experience comes in with your own test light.

 

What problems would I encounter if I have a bad ignitor?

Posted the following and someone advised me to check for the ignitor:

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My car's problem is kinda weird. At cold start (only), idle will go to around 1.5k rpm and settle to around 900k rpm without any hiccups but anytime during that period and you 1. tap or step on the gas pedal 2. turn on/off the aircon wherein the compressor switches on/off, my idle goes down to around 100k for roughly 1 - 5 seconds and settles back to normal idle.
Problem described does not happen if engine is in normal temp even if you turn off and on the engine.

Did the following and problem still haunts me:
1. clean iacv
2. change fitv
3. clean tb and im

Mechanic told me it could either be the tps (i doubt since voltage reading is correct when tested) or my ecu is busted.

Need your inputs to solve my problem. Thanks.

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Would my car problem be caused by a bad ignitor?

 

what are the followings?
1. iacv =
2. fitv =
3. tb and im =

 

Idle Air Control Valve, its cleanable and computer controlled.

Fast Idle Thermal Valve, its cleanable and adjustable. Dont use carb cleaner, bees wax may be damaged.

Throttle Body, its cleanable and the throttle plate or TPS (throttle position sensor) is adjustable.

Intake Manifold, a little more work to clean, not to mention EGR.

The throttle body and intake manifold can be professionaly cleaned with an air induction (air intake components) cleaning system.

Exhaust Gas Recirculation ports if your manifold has them and if they are cleanable by you.

 

as you guys recall, i have some studdering issues with my car.

- Oxygen sensor was bad. Check engine light was going on & off. If I run the car for about 2 minutes to warm up at 3K rpm, it used to chock.

- Ignition/igniter module control. Car would not start sometime. It hesitates. As it is running it jurks.

Hope this can help someone.
Thanks,
Joey