195 @ 8000 HP
138 forgot what rpm torque

Stock B16 head
AEBS IM
Heatguard intake gasket
Stock GSR TB
REV Valvetrain
Skunk2 Pro1
Skunk2 pro cam gears
270CC RC injectors

B20B
84.5mm 11.3 Wiseco pistons
Eagle rods

Rage header
AEM 3' CAI
Custom 2.5' exhaust with no name high flow cat
Tuned with Hondata S200

Disappointing numbers, was expecting over 200 and at least 140 lbs of torque. Car produces more torque with gsr cams IMO. Motor pulls to 8k but it feels like a 1.8.

What could be wrong????? I have some possibilities. Baseline was about 191 hp with fuel tuning. Cam gears weren't touch do to cam gear being seize. Tuner said he played with timing. The dyno graph looks smooth, torque holds steadly til 7500 rpm. The only dip is at 4000 rpm, and I'm guessing cause of the AEM intake. When vtec hits, there's no hugh jump, but Pro1's have larger primaries, so no big increase.

Can't find the dyno sheet, cause I got too disappointed and might of threw it away.

I might try to dial the cam gears on the dyno in couple of weeks, probably see if I can pick up Hondata software or use Crome to retune with help from Bro.


Modified by biassj at 2:33 AM 10/6/2006

 

was this on a mustang dyno?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DJ_NeX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">was this on a mustang dyno?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope dynojet.

 

Two things that will help for sure... More compression and properly degree in the cams. With a good tune this will give you your missing hp. You also may want to try a shorter intake.

 

double post.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PURE Tuning &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Two things that will help for sure... More compression and properly degree in the cams. With a good tune this will give you your missing hp. You also may want to try a shorter intake.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is it possible to degree cams while motor is in the car? I should of done that from the beginning before tuning. I'm condersing buying the tools to degree in the cams. I'm not sure where the hell the timing is at even with the stock cams. Cam gears don't line up properly, but thats what I hear what happens with these swaps or aftermarket cam gears.


Modified by biassj at 1:36 PM 10/6/2006

 

Something is not right. I made 184whp 138tq with gsr cams and stock intake.

Try a different tuner?

 

i dont think i broke 200 until my tuner played with the cam gears. it could be that? get it tuned again.

my setup is almost identical to urs so u got some left.
wat size injectors ur running?

 

270 RC, forgot bout that.

 

bigger throttle body should help as should tuning the gears.

know what duty cycle those 270's are at?

if you can, porting the head will help too.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1772634

 

i dont see what that link has to do with anything??

anyway everyone seems to say these cams dont do well with a sub par tune, i would call not touching the gears sub par for these cams...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by biassj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Is it possible to degree cams while motor is in the car? .</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes it is. You have to find out the optimium point the valve is open (on the opposing cylinder) @ TDC. Someone like DonF would be able to provide you with that spec. At that point, you have to find TDC on the engine (with a dial indicator in the cylinder and a dial indicator on the spring retainer) and adjust you cam gears accordingly until you hit the magic number.

 

Mind if I chime in here? Just wanted to help with some insight. Degreeing in those cams properly is really the only way to see the true power potential. Just from experience of customers calling in about making low power, after we get them to degree them in they tend to make a lot more in the midrange (around 10hp) and a little more up top. Heres our recommended cam degree setting for Pro 1's, they should be in your installation instructions too.

Intake:
Opening: 24 degrees BTDC
Peak Lift: 98 degrees ATDC
Closing: 50 degrees ABDC

Exhaust:
Opening: 56 degrees BBDC
Peak Lift: 105 degrees BTDC
Closing: 17 degrees ATDC

Hope this helps
Feel free to call us with any tuning questions.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skunk2Tony &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mind if I chime in here? Just wanted to help with some insight. Degreeing in those cams properly is really the only way to see the true power potential. Just from experience of customers calling in about making low power, after we get them to degree them in they tend to make a lot more in the midrange (around 10hp) and a little more up top. Heres our recommended cam degree setting for Pro 1's, they should be in your installation instructions too.

Intake:
Opening: 24 degrees BTDC
Peak Lift: 98 degrees ATDC
Closing: 50 degrees ABDC

Exhaust:
Opening: 56 degrees BBDC
Peak Lift: 105 degrees BTDC
Closing: 17 degrees ATDC

Hope this helps
Feel free to call us with any tuning questions.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Kewl, didn't get those spec sheet in my box. I'm gonna order me Camshaft Degreeing Fixture from New England Honda Rebuilders pretty soon. Any other degreeing kits you guys recommend?

 

No, the kit you are getting should work fine. Let us know how that goes, im interested to see the difference in power output. And again, if you have any questions when you get to that point, feel free to give us a call and ask for Jeff or Tony.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skunk2Tony &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mind if I chime in here? Just wanted to help with some insight. Degreeing in those cams properly is really the only way to see the true power potential. Just from experience of customers calling in about making low power, after we get them to degree them in they tend to make a lot more in the midrange (around 10hp) and a little more up top. Heres our recommended cam degree setting for Pro 1's, they should be in your installation instructions too.

Intake:
Opening: 24 degrees BTDC
Peak Lift: 98 degrees ATDC
Closing: 50 degrees ABDC

Exhaust:
Opening: 56 degrees BBDC
Peak Lift: 105 degrees BTDC
Closing: 17 degrees ATDC

Hope this helps
Feel free to call us with any tuning questions.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tony,

Doug here (that Canadian guy)...

I didn't recieve any instructions with my cams but I'll use this info when they go in. I am however a little confused about one thing, the Skunk2 website has the duration for the Pro1 cams listed at 264mm for both the intake and exhaust.

If I take the instructions you've just posted and calculate the duration I get:
Intake = 24+180+50 = 254
Exhaust = 56+180+17 = 253

Are my calculations correct?

 

I got this numbers as well for degreeing

Overlap: 41.00 degrees
Intake Duration: 254.00 degrees
Exhaust Duration: 253.00 degrees
Intake Installed Centerline of 103.00 degrees ATDC.
Exhaust Installed Centerline of 109.50 degrees BTDC.

 

Doug, yes you are correct. The 264 cam specs are at 1mm with 0.000" lash.
The recommended specs to degree the cams in are at 1mm with 0.007" (cold) lash on the intake and with 0.008 (cold) lash on the exhaust.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skunk2Tony &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Doug, yes you are correct. The 264 cam specs are at 1mm with 0.000" lash.
The recommended specs to degree the cams in are at 1mm with 0.007" (cold) lash on the intake and with 0.008 (cold) lash on the exhaust. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Great! I figured it was something like that...

 

try a jg vic X IM
and i think you need some 370 or 440 injectors
and a larger tb will help out

a 2.0L shouldn't feel like a 1.8L

 

those numbers arent too bad considering the stock head.. there is probably some more power there but those arent bad numbers.

 

not Bad numbers., try to retune,

 

5whp and 2tq away from your (at least) goal is nothing to sneeze at bro. it shows
that you were right on with your guesswork.

- one thing you might want to consider isnt even getting head work
so much as having the valve job cut for your cams. just something
to consider.

cleaning up the valvejob and tightening up your tune will do wonders
for this motor

- other people already said good things for which I agree: matchporting
the TB&gt;intake at 70mm or so and getting the fuel delivery closer to
optimal should really help as well.

 

Not to hijack the thread, but are there any issues with Pro1's in a daily driver motor?