I have a 93 dx hatch with a b16a sirII. JDM 4-1 headers, skunk2 intake manifold, short ram intake, cat back exhaust, b&m fpr, short shifter. Cams are going in next, but I still won't be able to beat a lot of people in my town of Bakersfield, Ca. Yes, I know it says beverly hills, that is a different story. Anyways, I went out Saturday to hit the street races and there were cars there that I haven't seen before. There were like 2 or three ls/vtecs, one crvtec, and a bunch of swaps in civics with N.O.S. Also some fast sentras with the SR20DET swaps. So everyone is like way faster. So, I am getting a check for 1200 bucks. What should I do? Should I apply that to a custom turbo kit? Or should I save for a brand name turbo kit? I really want to have power all the time... meaning when i get on the freeway, at the light... all the time. No N.O.S. cuz i have to have the bottle all the time and constantly fill it up. ****, Gas is expensive as it is.




Peace


[Modified by hb_racer, 5:23 PM 5/2/2002]

 

Sounds like you don't wanna stay NA anymore. What cams are you getting? If you're getting some fairly big ones, then that'll be wasted money later if you decide to get a turbo. Your nice JDM header will also be gone. First, decide if you want to stay NA or go FI. NA will not be the fastest on the street, but it's often times the most fun. If you decide to go FI, don't get the cams. Save for a kit (most kits can now be had for about the price of a well researched custom kit). DRAG kits can be commonly had for well under $3k, tho you'd want to replace the wastegate on those. There's a ton of other things you'll need when running FI also. $1200 won't get you much toward FI just yet. You could use it to build up the bottom end and continue to save for the turbo later. If you decide to stay NA, get a b18c block, or you could go LS/VTEC or CR-VTEC yourself. You'll increase displacement and make more power for every mod you already have and will put on later. First tho, decide NA or FI or you'll end up wasting a lot of money. HTH.


[Modified by bhcvc, 5:37 PM 5/2/2002]

 

There's your problem right there:

B16s suck ('cept for the B16B)

 

supercharge it.

 

Don`t take this the wrong way, but it doesn`t sound like you know much. A turbo kit might be a bad idea. Plus, $1200 won`t buy much.

Might want to consider going b20 block.

Ryan

 

lol B16a doesn't suck. You just have to have the right setup and b16a's really need to breath to get power out of them. I have a 92 Si with a Stock! 1st Gen Block. Its has a nice JG Head and Throttle body. I used a Type R Intake manifold and cams. The header is JG Edelbrock with a 2 1/2 collector. The tranny is Type R with 478. The motor makes 172 at the wheels and weighs like 2200lbs. Its a high 13 sec car on street tires and rips on the track

 

Well said. Sell what you have and get a 1.8L

 

people say that B16's are slow all the time, that is only partially true. They take alot of finess(sp) and work to get them working perfect. If you wanted to go Forced Induction my suggestion would be a Super Charger and maby a nitrus kit. That would give you some great power for not THAT much money

 

btw, there was a b16 charger in the classifieds for $1500 last week.

 

you earn WAY more respect on the motor. nos & turbo's are easy money. if it's done right, nobody says you can't be the fastest. switch over to 1.8, get some fat head work, build your bottom and gut your ride. i know of a guy who ran 12.1 on the motor with a daily driven car(hb like yours). i don't know how many turbo cars that can be driven daily AND still pull down 12 sec. timeslips.
read: lot's more parts, lots to go wrong. stay on the motor, and continue to consider your car a daily driver. it's all in the way it's tuned.
just my .02

 

here is that supercharger thats forsale
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=172004

 

there are actually many more 11 and 12 second daily driven turbo cars than there are 11 and 12 second na cars - honda wise, that is

 

I still say turbo's on honda's is fun for a little while but it WILL go downhill from the time you put it on. I say if it wasnt on the car from the factory, it doesnt need to be on there. That is why porsche and other cars can drive all day and night hard as hell and not worry about blowing up b/c the motors were made to withstand that, honda motors were not.

 

First off, if you listen to the people telling you to go b18 then most of your parts will swap over to any b enginemost of the time. As far as buying a whole new engine that might not be the best bet. Your best bet is to take all your mods and the head off your b16a and do a frankenstein mod with either a b18 block or the best choice a b20 from a crv. It's a non-vtec engine but your head will directly bolt onto it and then it will be vtec. You'll have to get your ecu reworked but you could pull the whole thing off for under a G. The two b20's to look at would be the b20b (97-98 CRV) or the b20z (99-01 CRV). Of the two, the b20z is the better because of the higher compression unless you plan on running a turbo or supercharger then the piston shape in the b20b is better. Just make sure to use the head gasket from the b20.If you have done any head machining to raise compression or if you have a cam with a high lift or duration make sur to check your valve to piston clearance. If you still want a new set of cams nothing beats the JDM civic type r cams. I also think that nitrous isn't a bad idea. It can add 50-75 pony's and usually can almost double torque.

Hope I shed some light and some options on you.

 

And blow your motor if your compression ratio is too high.

 

For OEM, that is

 

HMmm... I'm debating on whether to go B16A SIRII or the 94+gsr engine... The B16A SIRII is like $1k cheaper....

 

You get what you pay for...sorry had to say it.

 

b16a has a much better rod stroke ratio than a 1.8l. Which is ideal for a NA setup. Shorter strokes = safer high revs . which if done right = more hp

 

It's actually safer for FI too. Shorter strokes = less sideloading = more boost can be run. The B16's biggest handicap, 1595cc's

 

my suggestion is to save your money towards a turbo

 

I suggest if you want to stay all motor get a b18 block, and if you want some crazy power get some GE sleeves in the b18 block(or your b16) and run 85mm pistons!

If you want even more power turbo your car!

 

that's what im doin

 

boost! go drag 3

 

Thanks every one. When I first got the swap, mostly everyone on this board told me to go with the b16a sirII. Anyways... I am thinking NA, just because I have the excuse of I'm all motor...hahaha... Like I tell the turboed cars, lets run all motor. hahah... Well, thanks for the input. Basically you all are saying that 1200 bucks is not enough for my next step. that really ****** sucks.

Peace

Oh, and how does the Jackson Racing Super Charger perform??? Any good? 1500 too much???




[Modified by hb_racer, 11:42 PM 5/2/2002]