i need some new tires.. i have slight negative camber on eibach prokit. i was thinking either the neogens or the paradas. i dont know if the paradas are made for negative camber. if anyone else has suggestions please help out. are there other tires designed for slight negative camber?

 

Nitto Neo-Gen are supposed to have inner tread that wears 20% less than other tires. But those start around 70+ a tire. The drop that the Pro-Kit gives 1-1.5 inch isn't going to give you enough neg. camber to really burn through tires, though. Get some better tires for cheaper, I.E. Kumho Ecsta SPT and a camber kit with the $ you will save from not buying the Neo-Gens.

 

my old tires have camber issues with the prokit that is why i am posting. ive read about the kumhos. i really want opinions on parada spec 2 vs neogen. tire price is not an issue.

 

Get a camber kit and get an alignment. Why waste more money on tires. Fix the root of the problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madlion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive read about the kumhos.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then you know how good the SPT is, for the money.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madlion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i really want opinions on parada spec 2 vs neogen.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The Parada Spec 2 is absolute crap. Don't get it.

I haven't tried the NeoGen, but it's more expensive than the SPT. I would get the SPT. If you are looking for better performance than the SPT (and you don't mind spending more), there are other tires on the market that are also excellent, including the Goodyear F1 GS-D3, Falken Azenis RT-615, and others. Would you like to tell us what kind of car you have (year, model, version) and what size wheels you have, so that we can recommend a tire that comes in an appropriate size?

 

2000 si agx struts eibach prokit but switching to the hr limited sport springs
stock 15 rims changing to 16s maybe konig heliums or nippons or rotas. maybe brigs. i need a 16" light-weight black rims. ive read a lot of arguments regarding camber. im not sure i need nor want to correct this negative camber issue.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madlion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2000 si agx struts eibach prokit but switching to the hr limited sport springs
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Complete waste of money. If anything the pro-kit is better than the H&R sport springs.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madlion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i need a 16" light-weight black rims. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Kosei K1 are light and pretty cheap.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madlion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> im not sure i need nor want to correct this negative camber issue. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well you can buy a camber kit for $100, alignment for $50. Or you can keep going through tires, potentially adding to hundreds of dollars a year. Trust me that camber kit will pay for itself over time.

 

i have a big system in my car. the eibachs sag with it. h and r sit lower in the back. the camber kit will cost money to install. i dont have air tools or id do it. why are you not pro a little negative camber. its not a lot just a little?

 

neogen has no grip....but....saves u some coin on tires..

 

Don't you also change toe from lowering the car? I've run a pro-kit and the camber change was not enough to cause too much inside-edge tire wear, but if my toe is off it will eat tires quickly. Did you get your toe checked after you lowered the car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rmcdaniels &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't you also change toe from lowering the car? I've run a pro-kit and the camber change was not enough to cause too much inside-edge tire wear, but if my toe is off it will eat tires quickly. Did you get your toe checked after you lowered the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes please get an alignment.. no need for camber kits.. i'm lowered probably 3+in and i'm running 3 degrees of camber but i got an alignment and go the toe fixed.. i have uneven tire wear but i'm not going through tires like every few months.. tires still look new.. bad toe is wat eats ur tires quickly

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LFA Squad :: Joon Joon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yes please get an alignment.. no need for camber kits.. i'm lowered probably 3+in and i'm running 3 degrees of camber but i got an alignment and go the toe fixed.. i have uneven tire wear but i'm not going through tires like every few months.. tires still look new.. bad toe is wat eats ur tires quickly</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not necessarily true. My car is nearly that low and used to go through a set of tires about every 3 months or 2500 miles. I got a skunk2 kit and an alignment which reduced my camber from about 2.5 to 1.5 degrees, per my request. I put about 10k on my last pair of tires before the inside edges were worn to the cords. And they would have lasted even longer had I preserved the stock suspension geometry with no negative camber.
It's pretty simple, negative camber makes your tires sit an an angle, thus wearing quicker on the inside edge. Basic mechanics. I'll shut up now because obviously not having a camber kit and wasting tires is the new JDM, yo!

 

i have a camber kit but its maxed out to 3degrees.. i've had my tires on for almost a year already.. still lookin good..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LFA Squad :: Joon Joon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a camber kit but its maxed out to 3degrees.. i've had my tires on for almost a year already.. still lookin good.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I used to work at Les Schwab and my personal experience is that I changed tires for lowered cars that were more often than not, worn on the inner edge. Just my .02c with lowered Hondas and such.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Leofski &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not necessarily true. My car is nearly that low and used to go through a set of tires about every 3 months or 2500 miles. I got a skunk2 kit and an alignment which reduced my camber from about 2.5 to 1.5 degrees, per my request. I put about 10k on my last pair of tires before the inside edges were worn to the cords. And they would have lasted even longer had I preserved the stock suspension geometry with no negative camber.
It's pretty simple, negative camber makes your tires sit an an angle, thus wearing quicker on the inside edge. Basic mechanics. I'll shut up now because obviously not having a camber kit and wasting tires is the new JDM, yo! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well then there must be something else wrong with your suspension or the tires that you are using. I put 9 months ~ 18k miles on brand new Toyo Proxes T1-R and my car has 2.5 degress of camber up front and 3.0 degress in the rear with no camber kit. When I took them off to sell the wheels, they showed a very minimal amount of camber wear. I now have put ~10k miles on brand new Kumho Ecsta SPT with the same amount of camber and it is wearing just as my old Toyo's did. Camber does wear out the insides of your tires, but it should not be getting to the cords as quickly as it does in your car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EK k kay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well then there must be something else wrong with your suspension or the tires that you are using. I put 9 months ~ 18k miles on brand new Toyo Proxes T1-R and my car has 2.5 degress of camber up front and 3.0 degress in the rear with no camber kit. When I took them off to sell the wheels, they showed a very minimal amount of camber wear. I now have put ~10k miles on brand new Kumho Ecsta SPT with the same amount of camber and it is wearing just as my old Toyo's did. Camber does wear out the insides of your tires, but it should not be getting to the cords as quickly as it does in your car. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Nothing wrong with my suspension or alignment. I had the older Azenis RT-615, and with a lot of hard driving and some neg. camber, 6-7k miles of use isn't out of the question. I've seen the same effect on my old Civic and countless lowered cars that i've changed out the tires on. I really don't want to argue that negative camber= no inner tire wear. That's a pointless argument.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by find articles@ looksmart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Camber

Camber is the tilt of the wheel from true vertical as viewed from the front of the vehicle. Like caster, camber is measured in degrees of an angle. If the tire appears to tilt outward at the top, the camber angle is positive. If the top of the tire tilts inward, the camber angle is negative.

Zero camber-a perfectly vertical wheel and tire-causes the least tire wear. Positive camber causes the outer tread of the tire to wear more than the inner tread; negative camber has the opposite effect. Engineers design small amounts of positive or negative camber into vehicle suspensions to aid handling and steering. Normal camber angles have little visible effect on tire wear, but extreme camber causes noticeably abnormal tire wear and shortens tire life.

Positive camber, like positive caster, affects straight-ahead stability and steering wheel return. As the vehicle turns, the outside suspension tends to rise on the wheel because of positive camber. When the wheel returns to straight ahead, the vehicle's weight presses down on the steering axis and helps straighten the wheel.

Negative camber resists the tendency of the tire to slip sideways during cornering. It also can increase steering effort. Most cars and light trucks are designed with positive camber, but many race cars and some high-performance street vehicles have negative camber. </TD></TR></TABLE>

But oh silly me. Rolling dumped and wasting tires is the new JDM yo!
Why didn't I see that earlier on me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Leofski &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's pretty simple, negative camber makes your tires sit an an angle, thus wearing quicker on the inside edge. Basic mechanics. </TD></TR></TABLE>

wrong, I guess it's not that simple go read books at les schwabs or w/e and come back with more knowledge

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Leofski &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I had the older Azenis RT-615</TD></TR></TABLE>
What?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Leofski &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I used to work at Les Schwab and my personal experience is that I changed tires for lowered cars that were more often than not, worn on the inner edge. Just my .02c with lowered Hondas and such.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, most people out there just dump their cars and don't know **** about suspension and just leave it like that. On the other hand there's the opposite to that. The people who think you must get a camber kit because they think that tire wear is what causes uneven wear in hondas, which is laughable at

Just because the tire sits at an angle, that doesn't necessarily mean that the tire will get worn out evenly. If you didn't know that, then I feel sorry for your supervisor hiring someone who doesn't know tire basics But oh well, most tire shops don't know **** anyways, they're trained robots, poorly trained robots at that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fast95eg8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

wrong, I guess it's not that simple go read books at les schwabs or w/e and come back with more knowledge
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Care to enlighten me as to why 90% of lowered Hondas I've seen have inner tire wear?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fast95eg8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I meant RT-215 my bad.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fast95eg8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well, most people out there just dump their cars and don't know **** about suspension and just leave it like that. On the other hand there's the opposite to that. The people who think you must get a camber kit because they think that tire wear is what causes uneven wear in hondas, which is laughable at
</TD></TR></TABLE>

And since "tire wear causes uneven wear in Hondas", you obviously are an authority on suspension/tires. Every time this discussion comes up in one of the tech forums, there are 2 people. The people who roll slammed and insist "my tires are fine" even though they are wearing through the inner edge, shortening the life of their tires. And the people who invest in a simple camber kit and save $ on tires. It's a no-win argument.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fast95eg8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just because the tire sits at an angle, that doesn't necessarily mean that the tire will get worn out evenly. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Having a tire sit at a tilt DOES wear out the tire quicker. More weight is riding on the inner edge. Please enlighten me as to how camber DOESN'T affect tire wear AT ALL, despite everything I've heard/read to the contrary. I'll concede that camber doesn't affect tire wear AS MUCH as toe though.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fast95eg8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you didn't know that, then I feel sorry for your supervisor hiring someone who doesn't know tire basics But oh well, most tire shops don't know **** anyways, they're trained robots, poorly trained robots at that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Now you're just being condescending and a complete *******. Obviously this has deteriorated from a tech discussion into a personal attack on me, which only displays your obvious immaturity
FYI I worked at Les Schwab when I was 17 and no longer work there. Right now I work as ski patrol and a raft guide in the summer, in addition to attending school. Where do you work?

BTW I'm leaving this thread since the A/C forum ****** have taken it upon themself to personally attack me for no apparent reason. Good day to you, asshat.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Leofski &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not necessarily true. My car is nearly that low and used to go through a set of tires about every 3 months or 2500 miles. I got a skunk2 kit and an alignment which reduced my camber from about 2.5 to 1.5 degrees, per my request. I put about 10k on my last pair of tires before the inside edges were worn to the cords. And they would have lasted even longer had I preserved the stock suspension geometry with no negative camber.
It's pretty simple, negative camber makes your tires sit an an angle, thus wearing quicker on the inside edge. Basic mechanics. I'll shut up now because obviously not having a camber kit and wasting tires is the new JDM, yo! </TD></TR></TABLE>
i agree. i have had similar experience with tire wear. people who think negative camber does not have a bad effect on tires and that toe is the only important factor are ignorant.

 

just get a camber kit. really helps