I have a 1995 acura gsr turbo, stock bottom end with t3/t4 .63 a/r hotside and .50 a/r cold side. I just replaced the stock clutch with an ACT XTSS and prolite flywheel and changed the transission fluid with honda MTF So far ive put 200 miles on it driving it easy and not hitting boost at all, or shifting quick and I now I have a grind from 2-3 shifting normally. I never had this with my stock clutch. Could this be due to a faulty installation or should I try something other than honda MTF? Please let me know if anyone has any possible answers. Thanks!

 

adjust your cluitch pedal if you havnt

 

Try that gm sycromesh fluid. If that doesnt work out I would plan on getting new synchros.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by komat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">adjust your cluitch pedal if you havnt</TD></TR></TABLE>

[starski]DO IT..... DO IT[/starski]

adjust your pedal and it will go away

 

Adjust your clutch pedal and bleed the clutch system, be sure to keep the resivoir full and not suck in air but try and get all the old contaminated fluid out if its dirty. If nto then just give it a good bleed and you should be good to go

What fluid were you running in it before you switched to honda MTL?

 

I used honda MTF before. I will adjust it today because it is set really low to the bottom so hopefully that works.

 

maybe you didnt center the disk right

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic nation &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe you didnt center the disk right</TD></TR></TABLE>

If he didnt center the clutch right the trans wouldnt go on...... I dont know if you have ever put a clutch in or not (not trying to sound like a dick) but there is no play between the trans shaft and the center of the clutch disk

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic nation &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe you didnt center the disk right</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tranny would not bolt on, well the input shaft would not line up anyway

 

BLEED THE LINES.

It grinds because the pressure plate is not being pressed in far enough so the clutch is still grabbing, thus causing the "grinding."

&gt;&gt;&gt;&lt;&lt;&lt;

 

how do u bleed the lines. I didnt change the clutch myself so im not sure how to bleed the lines

 

You need a to purchase a manual for your car..helms,haynes,chilton ,etc...if you need to know how to bleed the clutch line.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95dc2teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do u bleed the lines. I didnt change the clutch myself so im not sure how to bleed the lines
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take it back to whoever did it and have them do it for free

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shortyz21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

take it back to whoever did it and have them do it for free

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Yeah thats what im planning on doing. But heres what ive got so far. Ive adjusted the clutch pedal and that didnt help. Ive noticed that from shifting from second to third it will only grind above 3500rpms. Also if I take it past 3500rpms (to say about 5000rms) in second gear and then shift it into 4th without letting the clutch out then putting into third it WONT grind. Also down shifting into third it WONT grind. It will only grind going from 2-3. So does this mean that its syncros? would having the lines bled make a difference? Im hoping its not the sycros because it didnt do it with my stock clutch. Anyone with any feedback please let me know thanks.

 

Heres some more info: I noticed about a week before i had my clutch replaced the pedal was mushy so i checked the resevoir (spelling) and saw that it was low. So i put more fluid in it and it was fine. Then i noticed today that it was a little low again so I put more in again. I looked near the pedal if i could see anything leaking and I dont see anything so.... i dont know, it has to be going somewhere and if thats the case then I guess that I could have air in the lines. Also for the first 150 miles of having the new clutch it didnt grind at all then all of a sudden it just did. Im just trying to give you guys as much information as possible so you could help me diagnose the problems. I really appreciate the responses!

 

anyone?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95dc2teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah thats what im planning on doing. But heres what ive got so far. Ive adjusted the clutch pedal and that didnt help. Ive noticed that from shifting from second to third it will only grind above 3500rpms. Also if I take it past 3500rpms (to say about 5000rms) in second gear and then shift it into 4th without letting the clutch out then putting into third it WONT grind. Also down shifting into third it WONT grind. It will only grind going from 2-3. So does this mean that its syncros? would having the lines bled make a difference? Im hoping its not the sycros because it didnt do it with my stock clutch. Anyone with any feedback please let me know thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have the exact same issue with my Integra with GS-R gears after replacing the clutch (replaced an XTSS that shot it's springs out with another XTSS). When it's cold, the 2nd-&gt;3rd shift always grinds above 3500rpm, but other gears don't, and I can prevent the grind by doing that trick of pulling it part of the way into 4th and then putting it into 3rd. After I've been driving for a bit (ie tranny and such is up to normal temp), I can shift into 3rd at like 5000 rpm without any grind, but higher RPMs still have a bit of a crunch. In my past experience, synchro grinds were worse when cold. I was using Redline MTL tranny fluid with the old clutch, and I picked up some more when I put the car back together with the new clutch. A year or two ago, it did have a little bit of a crunch going into 3rd gear when using Honda MTF, but the Redline MTL fluid made that go away, so Redline is definately good stuff for grinds... I'd trust it more than GM Synchromesh.

I'm sure that this is at least mostly a synchro problem, but the clutch may be worsening the symptoms. It's unlikely that the clutch is constantly dragging, but old fluid and/or air bubbles could be causing it to be a little slow to respond when you shift. I have heard some people say that their tranny problems got worse when they changed the fluid, but I don't know the specifics, so who knows if that's a factor here or not. I'll flush and bleed my clutch fluid to see if it changes anything, but I'm really not expecting any miracles...

If it needs a new 3rd gear synchro, it's not a big deal... http://www.GearSpeedInc.com has good prices and even offers carbon-coated synchro rings. It's really not that hard to replace it yourself, and there are several threads on Honda-Tech that show you how to do that.

 

I will try and bleed the system and if that doesnt work change out the fluid to something else. if all else fails i guess i will have to change the sycros out.....

 

If you are losing fluid, find the leak. It might be your slave cylinder. The seal around the piston might be bad.

Feel around the slave cylinder under the boot to check for leaks.

Also check you lines too.


&gt;&gt;&gt;&lt;&lt;&lt;

 

get a new slave and Clutch master cylinder. This should eliminate the issue. Ensure to look over the line to make sure there is no rip or kink on the clutch line. If you lost fluid it is coming from somewhere. Good luck

 

if the clutch is bled and everything looks good.. sorry but it sounds like the synchros,, try using synchromesh or whatever its called by gm,,, i heard that helps

 

Ive checked the lines and couldnt find any leaks. I just bought gm sycrhomesh today, and will put it in tomorrow. Hopefully that helps a little bit.

 

Check the piston of the Clutch master cylinder above the clutch pedal. Run your finger through the piston. He has to be leaking as he said there was no fluid in there before. If it were the synchros why would the act up after the clutch and not before.

 

I really have no idea, I will check it more thoroughly later on today. Also I did buy some gm sycromesh today. Im not sure I got the right kind though. This is the type i bought.

http://www.5speedtransmissions....html

Is there a different type that i need or is this the right one?

 

I think i got the normal one. I probably should have the one with the 5% friction modifier? right? anyone?