h23
What will i need to do to my h23 to get it to withstand a 8-8.5k redline under about 10lbs boost. This summer i'm goin to boost it but i wanna reinforce it now. so what do i need to do?
It's not going to survive 8000rpm+. The rod ratio on the H23 is poor. It's even worse than the H22a. The H23 not going to make any power at that RPM on the stock cams anyway... There is no point in revving it to pieces, especially if you are making your power with boost.
I belive it was T.O.O. that used to say, "RPM = Ruins People's Motors"
Andrew
I belive it was T.O.O. that used to say, "RPM = Ruins People's Motors"
Andrew
you said on my stock cams. i think you forgot to read my entire post. i'm goin to be buildin my whole motor, so i'm not goin to be runnin stock cams. in order to handle a 8k redline what do i need to reinforce?
Aftermarket cams won't change the rod ratio. If you build your head, you could rev a little higher, but I wouldn't go beyond 7k personally. The h23 isn't designed to be a high revving motor. With a built motor and turbo, I think you will be perfectly happy without revving out to 8k.
You are building the motor for boost. IMO, there is no point to changing the cams to shift the power band higher in the rpm range. You will make more power by building it to run higher boost than you will if you build it to run higher rpm. Buying new cams, valve springs, retainers to run high rpm is an unneccessary and pointless use of money in this scenario. Instead, focus the buildup on building the motor to handle boost: Resleve, forged lower-compression pistons, forged rods, programmable EMS...
To me, it sounds like you want to run high rpm for no apparent reason. The H23 is simply not an engine design that lends itself to high rpm. It is way undersquare. The stroke is too long. But don't take my word for it. It sounds like you have some more research to do before you begin any work.
Incidently, who is your engine builder?
Good luck
Andrew
[Modified by aklucsarits, 6:37 PM 5/1/2002]
To me, it sounds like you want to run high rpm for no apparent reason. The H23 is simply not an engine design that lends itself to high rpm. It is way undersquare. The stroke is too long. But don't take my word for it. It sounds like you have some more research to do before you begin any work.
Incidently, who is your engine builder?
Good luck
Andrew
[Modified by aklucsarits, 6:37 PM 5/1/2002]
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You are building the motor for boost. IMO, there is no point to changing the cams to shift the power band higher in the rpm range. You will make more power by building it to run higher boost than you will if you build it to run higher rpm. Buying new cams, valve springs, retainers to run high rpm is an unneccessary and pointless use of money in this scenario. Instead, focus the buildup on building the motor to handle boost: Resleve, forged lower-compression pistons, forged rods, programmable EMS...
To me, it sounds like you want to run high rpm for no apparent reason. The H23 is simply not an engine design that lends itself to high rpm. It is way undersquare. The stroke is too long. But don't take my word for it. It sounds like you have some more research to do before you begin any work.
[Modified by aklucsarits, 6:37 PM 5/1/2002]
To me, it sounds like you want to run high rpm for no apparent reason. The H23 is simply not an engine design that lends itself to high rpm. It is way undersquare. The stroke is too long. But don't take my word for it. It sounds like you have some more research to do before you begin any work.
[Modified by aklucsarits, 6:37 PM 5/1/2002]
the h23a1 also lacks the oil jets in the bottom end to assist with high RPM lubrication.
The piston oil jets don't lubricate anything. They cool the pistons.
The piston oil jets don't lubricate anything. They cool the pistons.
the h23a1 also lacks the oil jets in the bottom end to assist with high RPM lubrication.
The piston oil jets don't lubricate anything. They cool the pistons.
The piston oil jets don't lubricate anything. They cool the pistons.
These are quotes from Honda Builders Handbook.
"All VTEC engines squirt oil on the bottom of the pistons to help transfer heat away from the connecting rod and main bearings."
"The nozzles are aimed such that they miss the rods and hit the bottom of the piston. The oil temp in this motor is typically around 220 to 240 degrees F. The theory is that the oil will cool the piston and that will improve the volumetric efficiency of the engine by cooling the temperature in the chamber, which in turn cools the temperature of the incoming air."
the h23a1 also lacks the oil jets in the bottom end to assist with high RPM lubrication.
The piston oil jets don't lubricate anything. They cool the pistons.
Huh? The primary purpose of the oil jets is NOT lubrication.
These are quotes from Honda Builders Handbook.
"All VTEC engines squirt oil on the bottom of the pistons to help transfer heat away from the connecting rod and main bearings."
"The nozzles are aimed such that they miss the rods and hit the bottom of the piston. The oil temp in this motor is typically around 220 to 240 degrees F. The theory is that the oil will cool the piston and that will improve the volumetric efficiency of the engine by cooling the temperature in the chamber, which in turn cools the temperature of the incoming air."
The piston oil jets don't lubricate anything. They cool the pistons.
Huh? The primary purpose of the oil jets is NOT lubrication.
These are quotes from Honda Builders Handbook.
"All VTEC engines squirt oil on the bottom of the pistons to help transfer heat away from the connecting rod and main bearings."
"The nozzles are aimed such that they miss the rods and hit the bottom of the piston. The oil temp in this motor is typically around 220 to 240 degrees F. The theory is that the oil will cool the piston and that will improve the volumetric efficiency of the engine by cooling the temperature in the chamber, which in turn cools the temperature of the incoming air."
I'd bore it, sleeve it, run Crower rods, JE or Arias pistons at 9.5:1 cr, while the head is off:
have it ported and polished, get overbore stainless steel valves to help resist heat and in case it does detonate, have the intake manifold match bored, ported and polished to the head, etc etc etc...
You can spend as much or as little as you want. I would stick with some rods, pistons, and a little headwork with some nice valves to withstand the stress of what you want to do.
have it ported and polished, get overbore stainless steel valves to help resist heat and in case it does detonate, have the intake manifold match bored, ported and polished to the head, etc etc etc...
You can spend as much or as little as you want. I would stick with some rods, pistons, and a little headwork with some nice valves to withstand the stress of what you want to do.
i agree with JG luder. but i do know that oversized valves can hinder your lower end performance, you might just want to look into a 5 angle valve job on your stock valves. a while ago i wanted to upgrade my valve train so it could be capable of higher reving, but after some research and talking to companies i learned it was a total waste of money. now on a gsr, that is a different story. good luck on your set up.
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