Lowering a car, not a "what should i get question?"!
I drive a 2002 Civic Si, and want to drop my car. More so for looks than really hittin the curves! I had a 96 Prelude, with a set of springs and they tightened it up a bit but they weren't to ruough. what can I get that is 2 inches or so drop with a realistic daily driving exoerience?
A 2 inch drop in an ep3 will be a ball buster in my old man opinion, not to mention all the geometry issues that will be mentioned in short order below. A good drop for a DD is the HFP setup, visually its not as low as I would like either, but it tightens the car up nicely and doesnt abuse your spine.
I Just did tein s-tech on my type-s its absolutly amazing looks aawsome and it the most popular choice amognst the rsx's good luck ps the drop is abot 1.5 all around 2 finger gap between the fender and the tire.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by specialblend154 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont get springs, save up for some full coils. i have d2's and they are pretty nice if you take care of them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hellyea. why waste money on it when you could get something better. plus, adjustable ride heights on teins.
hellyea. why waste money on it when you could get something better. plus, adjustable ride heights on teins.
What I posted in the other thread (although you probably saw it already) regarding geometry for our cars:
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Example: The angle of the front lower control arms while at stock height goes a little bit downwards from the center of the car to the wheels. So, as the suspension compresses, the arm comes towards being level, which makes the lower edge of the wheel move outwards, adding some negative camber -- which increases cornering grip.
(that's a description of the "camber curve" -- if you were to graph resulting camber angle vs suspension travel, it would make a curved line)
Lower the car a little bit (1 to 1.5"), and the geometry is still alright -- the body of the car drops the inboard mounting points of the control arms no lower than its outboard points, so the camber curve isn't affected too badly.
Lower the car too much, and the lower arm angles upward from the subframe to the strut. In this case, as the suspension compresses, the control arm swings its endpoint closer to the centerline of the car, which brings the bottom edge of the wheel hub inwards. That actually creates positive camber, and it's happening at the worst time -- while the car is cornering hard and requiring as much rubber on the road as possible.
----
Example: The angle of the front lower control arms while at stock height goes a little bit downwards from the center of the car to the wheels. So, as the suspension compresses, the arm comes towards being level, which makes the lower edge of the wheel move outwards, adding some negative camber -- which increases cornering grip.
(that's a description of the "camber curve" -- if you were to graph resulting camber angle vs suspension travel, it would make a curved line)
Lower the car a little bit (1 to 1.5"), and the geometry is still alright -- the body of the car drops the inboard mounting points of the control arms no lower than its outboard points, so the camber curve isn't affected too badly.
Lower the car too much, and the lower arm angles upward from the subframe to the strut. In this case, as the suspension compresses, the control arm swings its endpoint closer to the centerline of the car, which brings the bottom edge of the wheel hub inwards. That actually creates positive camber, and it's happening at the worst time -- while the car is cornering hard and requiring as much rubber on the road as possible.
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