i have a 96 civic coupe red, my hood has ALOT of rockchips it really needs a repaint, but don't wanna spend $500+ at the paintshop, is there a cheaper way? like buying my own paint, and spray it DIY?

 

bump for same question

 

When I had my EG hatch i had the same problem. I sand it down to bare metal primer it and lite sanded and spray it black like 4 coats of spary can and clear it infact I still have a picture of her...

 

it could be done better with practice
i did my hood and it came out just like factory only better, minus all the small orange peel from the factory.

only thing i messed up on was being cheap on the clear coat i only put 2 thin coats on....o well its only a jun hod anyways

the harder of the 2 is appling the clear since it is more runnier than the paint.

good luck

with 40-50 dollars u can have a great hood

 

did you use spary cans? I use spary cans that I found, yep is ghetto carbon fiber lol

 

Here's a link that shows a DIY paint job I did (with pics). I used Duplicolor aerosol cans and as you see in the last pic, the spray paint looks better then the rest of the car's paint! I did a bumper, but hood is the same concept, but easier)

http://6thgearadvertising.com/....html

 

im planning on buying the "red" dupli color paint can,
and spray the hood, then i want to get the proffessional
clear coat (from ned's paintshop) and use a spraygun
for clear coat. Do you think that is OK idea? ....
(spray can red/ real clear coat from ned's)

also i'm worried about if i spray the hood with red can,
will it make "LINES" across the hood? by the way the
dupli color spray nozzle sprays "wide"

let me know thanks!

 

i made lines when i did my hood, heres a tip dont do it in a dark garage like i did, lol

 

my advice would be to buy the color that matches your car. nothing says ghetto like a 2/3 color car. to avoid the lines simply apply the paint in many LIGHT coats. keep the can a good 12 inches from the surface and overlap what you are painting. by overlap i mean start spraying before making a pass over whatever it is you are painting, then dont let go of the trigger until your no longer aiming at the painted surface. this will put the paint on evenly. the most important thing when it comes to using rattle cans is LIGHT coats, i cannot stress this enough.it may seem as though you are getting no coverage but you can be assured you are. just take it slow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wudini &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the most important thing when it comes to using rattle cans is LIGHT coats, i cannot stress this enough.it may seem as though you are getting no coverage but you can be assured you are. just take it slow.</TD></TR></TABLE>Definitely. Plan on devoting an entire weekend to this. Take it slow, do it right. People who ended up with runny streaks were impatient. Expect to put down a lot of light coats, and give it plenty of time to fully dry between coats. Ventilation helps drying go quicker - don't try to paint in a closed garage in the winter, assuming you don't get sick it'll take longer to dry, which pushes some people to be impatient.

Also, your paint is only going to be as good as your prep. Sand down to the primer. Use filler to smooth out dents & other imperfections. Again, take it slow, do it right, give the filler time to dry, sand it smooth. You can do the best job in the world painting and still end up with an imperfect end result if it's got hail damage & other dings.

 

another question..........

since i'm using dupli color spray can of (red) and a REAL clear coat (quart 32oz.), are they compatible? as far as chemical, meaning.... will it work together...or will it flake or bubble or have chemical reaction?.... because of different kind of brand?

 

Your hood is not going to match the rest of your car .... period. Tricoat. Come on man, you know this ****, you own the car. Unless your car is just so oxidized that it looks pink all the time....

Just buy a CF hood.

 

eran has a point cf would be easy and cost less then what a body shop would charge

 

the point i would like to get into the OPs head is not to just go and buy duplicolor "Red". if your civic is Milano Red...get Milano Red.

chances are it's one of these 2. milano red is the lighter of the 2

R78P Bordeaux Red M
R81 Milano Red

http://duplicolor.anthonythoma...r.cgi

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eran &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your hood is not going to match the rest of your car .... period. Tricoat. Come on man, you know this ****, you own the car. Unless your car is just so oxidized that it looks pink all the time....

Just buy a CF hood.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tricoat meaning what?

And what is the point of sanding down the primer. When i did that, it just look all scuffed up and like crap. So why do it, and what grit should i use to do it with. Also, what grit to sand the bare metal with before priming?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wudini &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the point i would like to get into the OPs head is not to just go and buy duplicolor "Red". if your civic is Milano Red...get Milano Red.

chances are it's one of these 2. milano red is the lighter of the 2

R78P Bordeaux Red M
R81 Milano Red

http://duplicolor.anthonythoma...r.cgi</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumminforev &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tricoat meaning what?

And what is the point of sanding down the primer. When i did that, it just look all scuffed up and like crap. So why do it, and what grit should i use to do it with. Also, what grit to sand the bare metal with before priming? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Dont' give him suggestions when you don't know what you're talking about.

Milano Red is a Tricoat paint, meaning there's THREE SEPARTE COATS. There's a base coat, a red candy coat, and a clear coat. No Duplicolor is going to match that. Ever. So sorry, try again. And milano isn't "lighter" ... it's just got different tones in it. Milano has pink/blue tones in it, and Roma has orange tones.

And as far as sanding primer .... if it was rough, you used too high of a grit, and you have no idea what you're doing.

And also, bordeaux isn't red, it's BURGANDY.


Modified by Eran at 11:35 AM 9/28/2006


Modified by Eran at 11:37 AM 9/28/2006

 

When i painted my bros hood it costed me about 60-70, i would rather just bring the hood to macco and have them paint the hood. it shouldnt be more than $50-$100 considering they paint a full car for under 300, i would assume painting a hood wouldnt be bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cyberdx16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When i painted my bros hood it costed me about 60-70, i would rather just bring the hood to macco and have them paint the hood. it shouldnt be more than $50-$100 considering they paint a full car for under 300, i would assume painting a hood wouldnt be bad. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, you're wrong about that. When they match a specific color, it costs more. The $300 paint job is the entire car, exterior only, no pearl. When you bring a part that they have to match to your car (and they expletive this up too, my bumper is a testament to that), it costs between $150-$300, depending on the size of the part.

 

You sand down to the primer so the paint you're laying down has something to grab onto. Otherwise your paint is going to peel/flake off in no time.

Most of the time you can just sand off all the crud that's accumulated onto the paint, get it back to a consistent, relatively smooth surface (add filler to dings, sand filler smooth), and then primer/paint on top of that. You don't have to get down to the primer, just give enough surface area for the new primer/paint to latch onto.

You want to start off with a low grit paper to quickly cut through all the detritus that's hanging around, once you get it to roughly where you're happy with it you switch to higher and higher grits so the surface becomes more and more smooth. Then you apply filler, sand the filler. You should be really tired of sanding by the time you're done.


I must agree that you're not going to match the color exactly without bringing it to a body shop so they can put down the same layers of paint. The question is... how good is the rest of your car's paint? Mine's got tons of SUV door dings, hail damage, few scratches... it's been exposed to the elements for over 9 years, 24/7, so it's pretty oxidized and faded. If I got it the new part close to the original shade, with a smooth layer of paint... if anything it'd probably look conspicuously better than the rest of my car.

If you're expecting show car quality from something you can bang out in your garage over a weekend for under $100, well.. you're barking up the wrong tree.

 

first west sand the chips with like 600 grit make it so there no rough edges dont worry about going down to bare metal if you run you fingernail it shouldnt catch anything just blend them in. then wet sand the whole hood wiht 1000 grit you want the clear to not look clear ot look foggy so the paint grabs. then if you gunna have a spray gun already go buy the mixed paint at a body shop or paint store they get the paint number from your door jam. then tape off and spray the red paint only the front im guessig if you just paint rock chips. but dont paint the whole hood red only maybe the first half(front of hood thick then slowly thin it out as you move up) you wanna blend it in. then wait your flash time normally 15-20 min then spray again then flash time then clear it so forth so on then let your clear dry atleast 24 hrs wet sand it with 2000 and buff it out so you dont have orange peel on the hood but what i suggest go to a body shop or get a cf hood if you never sprayed before youl praobly not gunna do the best job also the right way is to blend into your bumpers and fenders because the red they give oyu might not be the same red thats on tehre but if you blend it you dont notice also if you gunna paint in a garage wet clean it real good then wet the floor to try and keep dust from hitting wet paint

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1555133

 

Is there a special primer to use when painting a bare plastic bumper. Should i sand the bumper first?

 

if I were u i wouldnt try to or waste my time painting a hood with spray cans especially since it would be almost impossible to match the color since the rest of ur cars paint is faded .. u can also buy a brand new pre-painted hood for around 200-300

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eran &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont' give him suggestions when you don't know what you're talking about.

Milano Red is a Tricoat paint, meaning there's THREE SEPARTE COATS. There's a base coat, a red candy coat, and a clear coat. No Duplicolor is going to match that. Ever. So sorry, try again. And milano isn't "lighter" ... it's just got different tones in it. Milano has pink/blue tones in it, and Roma has orange tones.

And as far as sanding primer .... if it was rough, you used too high of a grit, and you have no idea what you're doing.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

know it all tool and your god damn symantecs.

the guy wants his hood to look better than it does. unless he's planning on winning some car shows....let him paint his damn hood. who gives a **** what they use to achieve the color...when i fill in a chip with touch up on my friends milano red civic, i dont use 3 different color paints and guess what? it appears 100% identical. and instead of insulting him for not knowing what he's doing, why don't you tell him what grit he needs to use...

useless

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eran &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And also, bordeaux isn't red, it's BURGANDY.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

homo-status

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wudini &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">know it all tool and your god damn symantecs.

the guy wants his hood to look better than it does. unless he's planning on winning some car shows....let him paint his damn hood. who gives a **** what they use to achieve the color...when i fill in a chip with touch up on my friends milano red civic, i dont use 3 different color paints and guess what? it appears 100% identical. and instead of insulting him for not knowing what he's doing, why don't you tell him what grit he needs to use...

useless

homo-status</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't insult the guy who wants to paint his hood, I insulted the guy who doesn't know how to paint who tried to give another guy who doesn't know how to paint some advice.

I sand primer with 800 first, and work down to 1200. I usually do 3 coats, sanding in between each.

And as for 100% identical .... I call shens. Pure and simple, shens. I don't even go to shows, and I would never spraypaint a part of my car. It just doesn't match. To make spraypaint look even remotely good, you have to sand, buff, sand, buff blah blaah blaaaaahhh. But if you do that, then you end up with no orange peel, and it's even further away from matching your paint. And if you're trying to match a tricoat, it just doesn't quite add up when the sun catches one part of your paint and gives some pink reflections, and it looks orange in the spraypainted part.

I'm a perfectionist. Obviously, you're not. I like my car to look great, not adequate.

But I'm sure that knowing what I'm talking about just makes me gay, right? Homo-status?

PS - Touching up is WAY different than painting the WHOLE hood.