EP3 upgrade question.
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From: fountain inn, sc. where they still rock banjos on porches, usa
EP3 upgrade question.
well i'm thinking in buying an EP3 in a month. i was wondering what kind of up grade i can do. i've been reading around for some info but it's been a bit fuzzy. i've own a 95 civic and done all the swap up grades from different years civic and acura. i do understand about the ECU reflashing and what not, but as always i'm always lost when it comes to the ECU so i pay someone else to do it.
so what type of swap i can do in the sense of other year acura. better supension, exhaust, header,intake, even cams and etc. i'm not trying to make it fast just breathe a little better and handle a bit better. so please point me to the right direction. i also know that they're not fast but it's been lust at first sight when i saw them first come out. so it'll be my pimp ride while my ej will be for track.
so what type of swap i can do in the sense of other year acura. better supension, exhaust, header,intake, even cams and etc. i'm not trying to make it fast just breathe a little better and handle a bit better. so please point me to the right direction. i also know that they're not fast but it's been lust at first sight when i saw them first come out. so it'll be my pimp ride while my ej will be for track.
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Washington, DC, USA
Hmm... how can I be brief... well, consider this post as only a start...
Swap (motor): any Type-S (k20a2, k20z1); Accord/CR-V K24 for more torque; TSX K24A2 for more torque and high-cam VTEC.
Transmission: 6-speed if you go with high revs (8000+) and stay NA; 5-speed if you go with loads of power and not-as-high revs. Get an LSD if you're making over 200 whp and/or tracking or autocrossing.
Suspension: HFP for mild improvement, Mugen for even more (both with OEM build quality); Tein, Buddy Club, and some others are good. Check around for spring/shock combos that work well, too.
Exhaust: Stock axleback flows great; non-resonated, larger midpipe plus race header gives enough gains. You don't need anything more unless you're planning to boost or swap.
Intake: SRI/V2 gets too much air from near the hot exhaust. Go with either a CAI or a Vision-style scoop plus performance filter.
Cams: K20A3 cams exist. Doing a head swap with an A2 head doesn't give enough gains to be worthwhile, IMO; do a full motor swap instead.
Boost: Turbo can be more than enough, especially since it's a FWD; 300-ish whp is common. JRSC race kit has been up to 230-240 whp on an otherwise stock K20A3 motor.
Swaybars: JDM CTR/ITR 22mm rear sway is enough. Stock front is plenty thick; some guys, mainly in auto-x, go thinner in front for better mid-corner and exit traction.
Swap (motor): any Type-S (k20a2, k20z1); Accord/CR-V K24 for more torque; TSX K24A2 for more torque and high-cam VTEC.
Transmission: 6-speed if you go with high revs (8000+) and stay NA; 5-speed if you go with loads of power and not-as-high revs. Get an LSD if you're making over 200 whp and/or tracking or autocrossing.
Suspension: HFP for mild improvement, Mugen for even more (both with OEM build quality); Tein, Buddy Club, and some others are good. Check around for spring/shock combos that work well, too.
Exhaust: Stock axleback flows great; non-resonated, larger midpipe plus race header gives enough gains. You don't need anything more unless you're planning to boost or swap.
Intake: SRI/V2 gets too much air from near the hot exhaust. Go with either a CAI or a Vision-style scoop plus performance filter.
Cams: K20A3 cams exist. Doing a head swap with an A2 head doesn't give enough gains to be worthwhile, IMO; do a full motor swap instead.
Boost: Turbo can be more than enough, especially since it's a FWD; 300-ish whp is common. JRSC race kit has been up to 230-240 whp on an otherwise stock K20A3 motor.
Swaybars: JDM CTR/ITR 22mm rear sway is enough. Stock front is plenty thick; some guys, mainly in auto-x, go thinner in front for better mid-corner and exit traction.
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