Well me and a friend dyno tuned my lsvtec not too long ago. Im open to all opinions/coments on what i should change to make more power and such.

Setup:

11.6cp
B18a block
Pr3 pistons + new rings
Itr oil pump
gsr water pump
gsr timing belt
gsr belt tensioner
arp rod bolts
arp head studs
acl main, rod, and thrust bearings
Bored .20 over + fresh hone
Shot peened rods
micropolish crank
balanced bottom end

B16a sir1 head(stock)
Stock cams/valvetrain
ITR intake manifold
Megan header 2 1/2" collector
AEM cai
2 1/4" exhaust


GSR Hydro tranny with 6 puck clutch

Chipped p28- tunned with chrome

Here is the dyno sheet. This was on a mustang dyno, im not to sure on how they compare with others...



Im looking to get over 200whp. I currenty have a JG built head thats ready to go on. Im looking for some good cams but havnt made any dicisions yet. I just got a custom made RMF header but i saw no difference in power over the $160 megan header.....Maybe the stock b16 cams are holding me back??

 

Not bad considering your using a 1st gen head with b16a cams on a mustang dyno.
A set of s2s2, blox b, or pro1 would definitely wake you motor up.


New cams and more tuning would definitely get you in to 175 whp area.

 

Yea im def looking into some good cams. But im still kinda stumped on why i didnt see a big differnce in power when i installed the RMF header...

 

Cams and headwork. A good header can't help you if the motor can't breathe.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cams and headwork. A good header can't help you if the motor can't breathe.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea thats the same thing i was thinking. I currently have a JG built head and i am looking for some good cams. And opinions on what cams i should get?

 

whats the difference between a mustang, dynojet and dynapack dyno?

why do they give different numbers

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by type B16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats the difference between a mustang, dynojet and dynapack dyno?

why do they give different numbers</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well i didnt know if they did or not, thats why i said it was on a mustang dyno.

 

If you don't want to rev real high, I think your best option would be the Pro1's....and I think they would really open up and let that header do more work for you. Solid start

 

what rods are you running the stock LS rods? if you want to get rev happy past 8 then i would suggest replace those with GSRs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GECKObeau &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what rods are you running the stock LS rods? if you want to get rev happy past 8 then i would suggest replace those with GSRs</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whats wrong with the ls rods??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by type B16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats the difference between a mustang, dynojet and dynapack dyno?

why do they give different numbers</TD></TR></TABLE>

Biggest difference I know of is roller inertia. My experience is only anecdotal but mustangs typically make the lowest hp numbers. 200 whp on a mustang is about 1000000 on other types.

 

I was "told" that they read 15% lower than others but i wasnt sure...

 

You cant rev stock LS rods reliably past 7800rpms, so you just negated putting a rev happy vtec head on.
GSR rods can handle 9000rpms all day

 

There Shot peened and have arp rod bolts, Ill be ok

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ekay. jay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There Shot peened and have arp rod bolts, Ill be ok </TD></TR></TABLE>

what does that do?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by realis9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what does that do?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you take your stock rods to machine shop and they blast them with small steel ***** at high velocity.this changes the metals grain causing the rod to be stronger. stops any invisable cracks etc

 

^ thanks i learned something new.

 

Solid start Once u decide on what the perfect head combo ull be close to 190...with some cam sprockets and timing the cams just right ull feel a real difference...rough idle blah who cares about idle

 

here's my dyno...my setup is pretty close to yours. mustang dyno also.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1720104

what size tb are you running? i would upgrade to 2.5" exhaust. see what you can do about porting the intake manifold if you have the JG head going on. i know my setup would make more power if it had a bigger tb, bigger im. a JG head wouldn't hurt

it's proven that the rmf headers kick ***. i think if u just let it breathe better plus bigger cams...200whp easy.

 

^^That header is def holding you back.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GECKObeau &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what rods are you running the stock LS rods? if you want to get rev happy past 8 then i would suggest replace those with GSRs</TD></TR></TABLE>

and then you'd have to use a gsr crank. which defeats the whole purpose of lsvtec.

 

i saw the same numbers with a stock b16 header and stock b16head 155whp.. built head and RMF header here i come

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by realis9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what does that do?</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shot_peening

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Case_hardening

 

is the set up that he has reliable for a daily driver?

 

yes