Just rebuilt gsr with TypeR internals .20 over is there too much compression????
I just rebuilt my gsr block with TypeR pistons bored .20 over. Now I am getting a check engine light, code 23 knock sensor. I dont really know why?? Is there too much compression or what?? Basically all I have is a light flywheel and clutch, cam gears, fuel pressure reg., and a vafc. oh and typeR tranny. I had this in my gsr when the block was stock and never had any problems. then my car was stollen and had to take everything out. the block had over 130k so I decided to build it. Now Im having this problem. Last thing... I also put octane boost in it and retarded the timing but the light is still coming on.. it doesnt come on unless I put stress on the engine. Thanks for reading all this and for good responses.
Modified by SmokenGSR at 10:35 AM 9/23/2006
Modified by SmokenGSR at 10:35 AM 9/23/2006
make sure your knock sensor is tight on there and make sure that it isn't broken.. also make sure all your plugs are in the right place.. i have a built gsr with CTR pistons and thats more compression than your itr pistons...
So I shouldnt have a problem running these pistons without doing anything really to the head. I just pulled my plugs and they seem to be burnt alittle. Do I have to upgrade the fuel pump or anything like that? I put this engine in a 92 4dr civic haha... Also with the stock injectors and vafc am I going to be able to up the pressure and to what PSI should I have my fuel press. ??
i don't have an upgraded fuel pump yet.. but i do have a fuel regulator and my fuel pressure is set to 40 right now i believe don't remember.. i would recommend getting the head done.. but i did a lsvtec for a customer with CTR pistons and he has a stock b16 head with crower stage 1 cams(1 1/2 year ago).. he has no problems yet... and hes a crazy driver, told him not to dog his car until 1000miles after the swap pulled out of the shop and hit it... so really this is up to you..
How would my car be acting if I was detonating? I retarded the timing and put octane boost in with 93. The light is still coming on. I dont want to ruin my new engine. Any other thoughts of why the knock sensor would be going off????
check your wiring if you think your wiring is right than replace the knock once you replace the knock and the light still comes on... then check your wiring AGAIN... my advise to you is too just buy a chipped ecu eliminating the freak'n knock...
Trending Topics
The Green plug with one wire is for the knock sensor right..?? I dont know if the people that built my block balanced it would that be a big problem??
no the crank. Not sure they did that.. I just drove it and did a couple pulls in 3rd and it felt pretty good. pulled harder and harder from 5k till 7500. didnt red line yet but weill after I change my oil again.
1. Hook multimeter up to knock sensor (or it should be D3 (red/blue) on the ECM).
2. Take a hammer or something like it, and tap on the block in various places.
3. If you don't get voltage, skip to 4a
4. If you get voltage, knock sensor is good
4a. Remove the connection to the knock sensor and check continuity from wire to body ground.
5. If there is continuity, you may have an intermittent short to ground at some point along the wire.
6. If not, plug the wire back into the sensor, and check for continuity again. If there ISN'T continuity, you may have an intermittent open in the wire. If there IS continuity, replace the knock sensor with a known good one, and retest.
Hope this helps.
All else fails, replace with diesel pistons.
Good luck
2. Take a hammer or something like it, and tap on the block in various places.
3. If you don't get voltage, skip to 4a
4. If you get voltage, knock sensor is good
4a. Remove the connection to the knock sensor and check continuity from wire to body ground.
5. If there is continuity, you may have an intermittent short to ground at some point along the wire.
6. If not, plug the wire back into the sensor, and check for continuity again. If there ISN'T continuity, you may have an intermittent open in the wire. If there IS continuity, replace the knock sensor with a known good one, and retest.
Hope this helps.
All else fails, replace with diesel pistons.
Good luck
So if the sensor is working correctly then whats my problem?? detonation??
I put two bottles of octane boost in there with a half tank. retarded my ignition and increased fuel with the vafc. light still comes on. It doesnt come on right away normally after I drive for a few min. If I take it easy it take a while to come on if I drive agressive then it comes on quicker. Could it be cause the crank wasnt balanced? thats the only thing I dont think they did. I will try the sensor test in the morning.
Thanks for the help..
I put two bottles of octane boost in there with a half tank. retarded my ignition and increased fuel with the vafc. light still comes on. It doesnt come on right away normally after I drive for a few min. If I take it easy it take a while to come on if I drive agressive then it comes on quicker. Could it be cause the crank wasnt balanced? thats the only thing I dont think they did. I will try the sensor test in the morning.
Thanks for the help..
true!!I live in mooresville NC and there aint nobody around here that I can take it to. I have to go to VA to a place called inline pro yall might have heard of em. but yeah I know I need to get my **** tuned!!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




