HOW TO: Make your own STRUT BAR: DUCE CO.
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HOW TO: Make your own STRUT BAR: DUCE CO.
Okay guys, I am a noob on this Forum but Im an Pro when I comes to things that are Driven Under Creative Engineering. DUCE is my own brand I just made up. It is a Fusion of HomeDepot and Autozone. 
Why Pay $200 for Cusco? When You can have FUN and build a Similar one for about less than $30 bucks. This Strut bar is made of PURE STEEL yet weighs less than 5 lbs. Ever since I fabricated this strut bar, the whole front end is SO STIFF and I take longer ways home just to hit this one corner around my neighborhood.
Pure Enthusiasm everyday. I LOVE Driving.
FOR: 1992-1996 PRELUDE: bb1 bb2 bb4
Okay, THIS PROJECT is VERY SIMPLE and <U>all the PARTS ARE MAGICALLY PERFECT FITMENTS. NO CRAZY MODIFICAITONS NEEDED</U>.
MATERIALS/TOOLS/ETC:
1. MIG (ARC WELDER): Argon Gas recommened, BUT fluxcore would work great also.
2. POWER GRINDER:
3. C-Channel [1250] 2" x 3 feet (Homedepot - Hardware Section) : it's Actually 2" x 37" Steel Bar.
4. SQUARE 5/8 Anchor Washers w/ bolts: 2" SQUARE with a hole. They will not sell these SQUARE washers alone, You have to buy the bolts. (it's a set) I just threw away the bolts. You will find this in the BACk of Homedepot....where the steel rods are. Ask the workers. Make sure you Get the SMALLER Squares - 2" NOT the larger 3". YOU NEED (4) Squares total.
5. FORD 500 Degree or VHT heat resistant Spray paint from Autozone.
COST: (assuming you have a MIG welder and Grinder)
a. (1) C-Channel Steel Bar. $14. 27.
b. (4) Square Anchor Washers . ($1.89 each x 4)----about $8 bucks.
c. Spray paint. $5-6 bucks.
d. Grand total : $28.27 ~ $30 ish.
1.
YOU need to set this up the steel bar w/ square washers on your car first before you can weld. UNFASTEN these two nuts. (this picture is just for reference..not acutual LUDE)
2. Place the Yellow washer over the BOLT and BLUE on top of the yellow. Use a sharpie marker and "marked up" the desired dimensions and places of each piece.
3. NOW, BEFORE you can WELD...YOU must Get your "GRINDER" and grind off the corresponding area. You must grind on the INNER side of the BLUE Square. This is because the NUT will need clearance. You can either Grind very deep..or All the way through. Make sure it's taller and wider than the NUT so you can later screw on the nut without any difficulties.
4. WELDING TIME:
1st. FIRST - you MUST MUST MUST weld the BLUE Square TO THE STEEL BAR.
2nd. You must play around with the bottom YELLOW Square washer to get the setting right.
5. USE THE GINDER: Take off any Excessive Welding spots. Grind down the entire finished strut bar before you can Paint it. Use a 400 to 800 grit sandpaper to finish off the preparation.
6. Use your Spray Paint and shoot it up.
7. Add your own Decal and you're DONE! Should look something like this:
NOTE: YOU will need to move some wires aside. Also on the Driver side you will need to move aside the power steering lines/ cruise control lines (just enough for the strut to mount on)
Modified by preludebbduce at 4:58 PM 9/22/2006
Why Pay $200 for Cusco? When You can have FUN and build a Similar one for about less than $30 bucks. This Strut bar is made of PURE STEEL yet weighs less than 5 lbs. Ever since I fabricated this strut bar, the whole front end is SO STIFF and I take longer ways home just to hit this one corner around my neighborhood.
Pure Enthusiasm everyday. I LOVE Driving.
FOR: 1992-1996 PRELUDE: bb1 bb2 bb4
Okay, THIS PROJECT is VERY SIMPLE and <U>all the PARTS ARE MAGICALLY PERFECT FITMENTS. NO CRAZY MODIFICAITONS NEEDED</U>.
MATERIALS/TOOLS/ETC:
1. MIG (ARC WELDER): Argon Gas recommened, BUT fluxcore would work great also.
2. POWER GRINDER:
3. C-Channel [1250] 2" x 3 feet (Homedepot - Hardware Section) : it's Actually 2" x 37" Steel Bar.
4. SQUARE 5/8 Anchor Washers w/ bolts: 2" SQUARE with a hole. They will not sell these SQUARE washers alone, You have to buy the bolts. (it's a set) I just threw away the bolts. You will find this in the BACk of Homedepot....where the steel rods are. Ask the workers. Make sure you Get the SMALLER Squares - 2" NOT the larger 3". YOU NEED (4) Squares total.
5. FORD 500 Degree or VHT heat resistant Spray paint from Autozone.
COST: (assuming you have a MIG welder and Grinder)
a. (1) C-Channel Steel Bar. $14. 27.
b. (4) Square Anchor Washers . ($1.89 each x 4)----about $8 bucks.
c. Spray paint. $5-6 bucks.
d. Grand total : $28.27 ~ $30 ish.
1.
YOU need to set this up the steel bar w/ square washers on your car first before you can weld. UNFASTEN these two nuts. (this picture is just for reference..not acutual LUDE)
2. Place the Yellow washer over the BOLT and BLUE on top of the yellow. Use a sharpie marker and "marked up" the desired dimensions and places of each piece.
3. NOW, BEFORE you can WELD...YOU must Get your "GRINDER" and grind off the corresponding area. You must grind on the INNER side of the BLUE Square. This is because the NUT will need clearance. You can either Grind very deep..or All the way through. Make sure it's taller and wider than the NUT so you can later screw on the nut without any difficulties.
4. WELDING TIME:
1st. FIRST - you MUST MUST MUST weld the BLUE Square TO THE STEEL BAR.
2nd. You must play around with the bottom YELLOW Square washer to get the setting right.
5. USE THE GINDER: Take off any Excessive Welding spots. Grind down the entire finished strut bar before you can Paint it. Use a 400 to 800 grit sandpaper to finish off the preparation.
6. Use your Spray Paint and shoot it up.
7. Add your own Decal and you're DONE! Should look something like this:
NOTE: YOU will need to move some wires aside. Also on the Driver side you will need to move aside the power steering lines/ cruise control lines (just enough for the strut to mount on)
Modified by preludebbduce at 4:58 PM 9/22/2006
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Re: HOW TO: Make your own STRUT BAR: DUCE CO. (preludebbduce)
for DIY.But personally, I would have anchored it to the strut mounting bolts. And maybe incorporate some gussets to the inside corners for additional strength.
For example:
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From: Puget Sound, WA, 98502
Re: (InvaderTrax)
for effort...2 mounting points will make a much stronger piece rather then 1 mounting spot on each side...just to throw this out there prelude peeps we do make strut bars for the 92-01 Ludes
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Re: (kdt3)
Ebay struts= WEak. Aluminum
My strut bar = PURE Steel. NOT weak. I JUMP KICKED IT before I drove it out.
IT's SOLID.
NO anchors needed. THE two rails on the side of the Steel bar are the Anchors. They put an anchor on your Round circular strut cuzz its rounded. Square flat flaced joints don't really need it. Trust me, it's very solid and it can kill 100000 peple before it breaks.
Yes..I did thought about the 2 or 3 bolting POINTS off of the shocks and mounting the strut on them. BUT It's difficult to fabricate a HorseShoe bend and drilling 3 holes. Like the onces on EBAY.
Ebay Strut $23 shipped? What's your point? I spent $30 bucks and could just buy Ebay also..BUT that's not the Idea here. The Idea is making it yourself.
I could buy a $250 dollar CUSCO. But that's not the point either.
The point is doing something creative with your time instead of smokin' weed or play x-box, or watchin TV all day.
I MADE THIS C-PILLAR FOR MY LUDE ALSO. BUT I AM NOT GONNA POST UP THE "HOW TO" CUZZ some of YOU GUYS ARE UNGREATFUL. Whatever. ONLY I WILL HAVE it. I care less.
My strut bar = PURE Steel. NOT weak. I JUMP KICKED IT before I drove it out.
IT's SOLID.
NO anchors needed. THE two rails on the side of the Steel bar are the Anchors. They put an anchor on your Round circular strut cuzz its rounded. Square flat flaced joints don't really need it. Trust me, it's very solid and it can kill 100000 peple before it breaks.
Yes..I did thought about the 2 or 3 bolting POINTS off of the shocks and mounting the strut on them. BUT It's difficult to fabricate a HorseShoe bend and drilling 3 holes. Like the onces on EBAY.
Ebay Strut $23 shipped? What's your point? I spent $30 bucks and could just buy Ebay also..BUT that's not the Idea here. The Idea is making it yourself.
I could buy a $250 dollar CUSCO. But that's not the point either.
The point is doing something creative with your time instead of smokin' weed or play x-box, or watchin TV all day.
I MADE THIS C-PILLAR FOR MY LUDE ALSO. BUT I AM NOT GONNA POST UP THE "HOW TO" CUZZ some of YOU GUYS ARE UNGREATFUL. Whatever. ONLY I WILL HAVE it. I care less.
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Re: (bb4ever)
BB4ever....
Dude, I see you reply to a lot of Posts on this Forum. Please send me a Picture of YOur CAr with the Altezza Euro tail lights and shopping cart spoiler.
I am working as in Intern at Honda OF Torrance right now.
(Junior) at CSULA. Industrial Techology. Chasssi/Suspension core. 2 more years and Im in RD for HONDA.
Oh im ASE certified (suspension) Please, Don't tell me Imma mess up my car. . I live at my family's autobody.
SO you say, if I mount it like that My car / or chassis will MESS UP?
WHY don't you go check out HKS/ CUSCO/ all those top brands and they have struts that mount the same way. JUST do some reasearch first. I"VE seen it before...trust me.
Don't hate, My honda is Stock and will smoke you. BB4Ever.
Yes STOCK CBR900RR
I don't spend my money on CARS. Im out of the RICE scene this is my daily driver and I get bored.
"Kimchi is just cabbage with SIRACHA homie."
Don't hate me cuzz I got ideas and you got smack talk only.
POST YOUR RICE!! please! Let's see your HYUNDAI. baby.
you Don't know shet...just shet talk.
Dude, I see you reply to a lot of Posts on this Forum. Please send me a Picture of YOur CAr with the Altezza Euro tail lights and shopping cart spoiler.
I am working as in Intern at Honda OF Torrance right now.
(Junior) at CSULA. Industrial Techology. Chasssi/Suspension core. 2 more years and Im in RD for HONDA.
Oh im ASE certified (suspension) Please, Don't tell me Imma mess up my car. . I live at my family's autobody.
SO you say, if I mount it like that My car / or chassis will MESS UP?
WHY don't you go check out HKS/ CUSCO/ all those top brands and they have struts that mount the same way. JUST do some reasearch first. I"VE seen it before...trust me.
Don't hate, My honda is Stock and will smoke you. BB4Ever.
Yes STOCK CBR900RR
I don't spend my money on CARS. Im out of the RICE scene this is my daily driver and I get bored.
"Kimchi is just cabbage with SIRACHA homie."
Don't hate me cuzz I got ideas and you got smack talk only.
POST YOUR RICE!! please! Let's see your HYUNDAI. baby.
you Don't know shet...just shet talk.
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 15,050
Likes: 3
Re: (preludebbduce)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by preludebbduce »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BB4ever....
Dude, I see you reply to a lot of Posts on this Forum. Please send me a Picture of YOur CAr with the Altezza Euro tail lights and shopping cart spoiler. </TD></TR></TABLE>
rice indeed....all this from the guy with the sanded down valve cover and bright blue H symbol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by the same idiot »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I am working as in Intern at Honda OF Torrance right now. I a (Junior) at Cal State Los Angeles. Industrial Techology Major. Chasssi/Suspension core. 2 more years and Im in RD for HONDA. that's research and development. </TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for explaining the term R&D for me, Im currently at NC State, engineering, and on the side, loving any and all knowledge about cars....so your little bragging to me doesn't intimate me in the slightest, though i do hope (for honda's sake) that you don't get the job....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yea same guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oh im ASE certified (suspension) Please, Don't tell me Imma mess up my car. . I live at my family's autobody. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ASE certifications are the biggest joke in the automotive world, that may sound good to grandma that needs new shocks, but it doesn't quite light the fire up my *** that you thought it would have.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ....... »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
SO you say, if I mount it like that My car / or chassis will MESS UP?
WHY don't you go check out HKS/ CUSCO/ all those top brands and they have struts that mount the same way. JUST do some reasearch first. I"VE seen it before...trust me.
Don't hate, My honda is Stock and will smoke you. BB4Ever.
Yes STOCK CBR900RR
I don't spend my money on CARS. Im out of the RICE scene this is my daily driver and I get bored.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ooooh smoke me yea go you, well done, i suppose that degree in rocket science you're earning right now in college has opened your eyes to the fact that 300lb motor cycles are faster than cars.....
I hope you feel statisfied having thought that you "insulted" a "ricer"....though somehow i dont think you have accomplished much.....
oh and on a side note for your future:
1) autobody has nothing to do with strut bars
2) just because its a "Top Brand" doesn't mean it was desinged well
bolting chassis supports to 1/8" thick metal is NOT a good idea, no matter what you tell me....take a look around, that part of the shock tower is notorious for breaking on preludes simply due to poorly made suspension products hitting against them every now and then, imagine all the torsion that is applied across your chassis pulling and pushing on that metal every day.....sounds like a great idea to me....
oh wow and 18 posts and you have gotten 2 deleted already, sounds like we're all gonna really enjoy your presence here in the lude forum.....
Dude, I see you reply to a lot of Posts on this Forum. Please send me a Picture of YOur CAr with the Altezza Euro tail lights and shopping cart spoiler. </TD></TR></TABLE>
rice indeed....all this from the guy with the sanded down valve cover and bright blue H symbol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by the same idiot »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I am working as in Intern at Honda OF Torrance right now. I a (Junior) at Cal State Los Angeles. Industrial Techology Major. Chasssi/Suspension core. 2 more years and Im in RD for HONDA. that's research and development. </TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for explaining the term R&D for me, Im currently at NC State, engineering, and on the side, loving any and all knowledge about cars....so your little bragging to me doesn't intimate me in the slightest, though i do hope (for honda's sake) that you don't get the job....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yea same guy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oh im ASE certified (suspension) Please, Don't tell me Imma mess up my car. . I live at my family's autobody. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ASE certifications are the biggest joke in the automotive world, that may sound good to grandma that needs new shocks, but it doesn't quite light the fire up my *** that you thought it would have.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ....... »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
SO you say, if I mount it like that My car / or chassis will MESS UP?
WHY don't you go check out HKS/ CUSCO/ all those top brands and they have struts that mount the same way. JUST do some reasearch first. I"VE seen it before...trust me.
Don't hate, My honda is Stock and will smoke you. BB4Ever.
Yes STOCK CBR900RR
I don't spend my money on CARS. Im out of the RICE scene this is my daily driver and I get bored.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ooooh smoke me yea go you, well done, i suppose that degree in rocket science you're earning right now in college has opened your eyes to the fact that 300lb motor cycles are faster than cars.....
I hope you feel statisfied having thought that you "insulted" a "ricer"....though somehow i dont think you have accomplished much.....
oh and on a side note for your future:
1) autobody has nothing to do with strut bars
2) just because its a "Top Brand" doesn't mean it was desinged well
bolting chassis supports to 1/8" thick metal is NOT a good idea, no matter what you tell me....take a look around, that part of the shock tower is notorious for breaking on preludes simply due to poorly made suspension products hitting against them every now and then, imagine all the torsion that is applied across your chassis pulling and pushing on that metal every day.....sounds like a great idea to me....
oh wow and 18 posts and you have gotten 2 deleted already, sounds like we're all gonna really enjoy your presence here in the lude forum.....
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Posts: n/a
Re: (bb4ever)
I think th OP had a good idea, but I agree that I wouldn't put it on my car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
oh and on a side note for your future:
1) autobody has nothing to do with strut bars
2) just because its a "Top Brand" doesn't mean it was desinged well
bolting chassis supports to 1/8" thick metal is NOT a good idea, no matter what you tell me....take a look around, that part of the shock tower is notorious for breaking on preludes simply due to poorly made suspension products hitting against them every now and then, imagine all the torsion that is applied across your chassis pulling and pushing on that metal every day.....sounds like a great idea to me....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just delete the sarcasm and you took the words right out of my mouth
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
oh and on a side note for your future:
1) autobody has nothing to do with strut bars
2) just because its a "Top Brand" doesn't mean it was desinged well
bolting chassis supports to 1/8" thick metal is NOT a good idea, no matter what you tell me....take a look around, that part of the shock tower is notorious for breaking on preludes simply due to poorly made suspension products hitting against them every now and then, imagine all the torsion that is applied across your chassis pulling and pushing on that metal every day.....sounds like a great idea to me....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just delete the sarcasm and you took the words right out of my mouth
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 15,050
Likes: 3
Re: (madcatz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madcatz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what a ghey set of ITR wheels......
:rolling:
</TD></TR></TABLE>
very funny.....
:rolling:
</TD></TR></TABLE>very funny.....
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Re: (bb4ever)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
subtract the exhaust though, thats long gone, look bbdouche boy i even de-riced my car more for you, the exhaust is stock now.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your not runing no stock exhaust
subtract the exhaust though, thats long gone, look bbdouche boy i even de-riced my car more for you, the exhaust is stock now.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Your not runing no stock exhaust
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Joined: Mar 2004
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yea i am now, that pic is old, well im running a stock catback ......thats all i can say
well now i just realized he was using the upper arm bolt, thats not AS bad as i had originally thought, i thought he just drilled his own hole through the shock tower......
but he's still a nub and i dont like him
well now i just realized he was using the upper arm bolt, thats not AS bad as i had originally thought, i thought he just drilled his own hole through the shock tower......
but he's still a nub and i dont like him
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 14,946
Likes: 1
From: ow my knee, CA
Re: (bb4ever)
i can't say that I don't appreciate what this guy is trying to do for the prelude scene tho, he should just be a little bit more open to criticism is all. constructive criticism at that.
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Posts: 15,050
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Re: (MadCityLude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MadCityLude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, thats better I guess.
Runnin the small catback isn't that going to hurt your performance? OR do you remove the catback when needed?</TD></TR></TABLE>
its a removal of sorts, that utilizes an electronic valve near the header.....
the poster is just full of himself, and he needs to realize that he isn't the greatest thing that ever hit the prelude forum.....
Runnin the small catback isn't that going to hurt your performance? OR do you remove the catback when needed?</TD></TR></TABLE>
its a removal of sorts, that utilizes an electronic valve near the header.....
the poster is just full of himself, and he needs to realize that he isn't the greatest thing that ever hit the prelude forum.....