My endyne catch can is filling with oil after about 10 mins on the track. I'm on R compounds and my car sees 325hp to the wheels, 14lbs boost. My engine is new so blowby isn't the issue. I'm convinced that the oil passages in the back of the block that the endyne kit taps into are filling with oil due to the g-forces, and that oil is ending up in the catch can, and then all over my engin bay.

I'm thinking of running the two lines from the back of the block up to the back of the valve cover, and then running two lines from the front of the valve cover where it's baffled back to the catch can. That way any oil comming out of the back of the block ends up in the head, and the crank case still gets vented.

My question: Would venting the crank case from the valve cover allow sufficient venting? I'm thinking it shouldn't be that big a deal.

 

hook up the drain like the instructions show you, gravity should let the oil go right back where it belongs..in the oil pan.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. Helsinki &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hook up the drain like the instructions show you, gravity should let the oil go right back where it belongs..in the oil pan. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for trying to help. I have the catch can set up "correctly".


Does anyone know if the block can be adequately vented from the valve cover?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr Pooface &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for trying to help. I have the catch can set up "correctly".


Does anyone know if the block can be adequately vented from the valve cover?</TD></TR></TABLE>

so your can isn't draining?

I've seen a lot of Endyn cans supposedly installed correctly, but very few actually have the drain running down hill.

 

My can is collecting so much oil it can't drain fast enough.

It is installed correctly. Trust me.

I want to vent the block from the valve cover, not from the oil passages.

Can the crankcase be adequately vented from the valve cover alone?

no offense, but if you don't know the answer to the above question posting here is pointless.

 

I'm pretty sure it can as long as you tap into the vc with large fittings. I see lots of people do that on h-t as opposed to using the back of the block.

 

I have seen one local car a while ago using two large vents tapped into the VC, the car was a drag car, not a track car but the engine tolerences were loose due to two power adders and the car had a decent amount of blow by but wasn't filling the catch can.

My own car is only done via the valve cover method as well but the car is rarely beat on and was built with close tolerances since it is primarily a street car and I have no problems with it filling up either but with the type of tracking you do, it's a longer more sustained abuse than the normal drag car so unless someone else here does the same type of racing with a turbo car, I imagine you will just have to try it and see.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr Pooface &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My can is collecting so much oil it can't drain fast enough.

It is installed correctly. Trust me.

I want to vent the block from the valve cover, not from the oil passages.

Can the crankcase be adequately vented from the valve cover alone?

no offense, but if you don't know the answer to the above question posting here is pointless.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Pooface, I'm just trying to help you solve your problem by analyzing the root-cause before you slap a bunch of band aids on it. I'm looking at your previous posts, and looking at the photos, I still strongly suspect that the slope of your drain isn't adequate (forgive me for being stubborn..I'm Finnish )



that is one of your photos, right?

I'd bring the can about 2 inches higher. Mine is so that the filter almost touches the hood, and the slope of the drain is barely downhill on mine, so I don't see how yours
could be going downhill?

Now, if you are absolutely certain that your drain is sloped downwards, then I'll say that ofcourse you can adequately vent the crankcase from the valve cover, there are 5 huge oil drain tunnels from the head to the block, so you have plenty of airflow if you want to do it that way.

 

Agreed, it looks too low. I found that if the filter wasn't basically touching the hood... it would fill up.

 

The filter does touch the hood. The can is not too low. There is plenty of slope for the drain line. I removed the IM brace so there would be no issues. Also, I never have any issues on the street.

For the record, I don't like how the endyne kit tee's the drain line into one of the vent lines.

Thanks for the helpfull coments. I think I'm just going to try it. Whats the worst that could happen?

Mr H: 2 inches higher and it would be 2 inches out of the hood I guess that would keep the oil out of the engine bay

 

It only drains when car is not under load. I would vent from valve cover to another catch can.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbocivic94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It only drains when car is not under load. I would vent from valve cover to another catch can. </TD></TR></TABLE>

my car at the track would fill up oil, i ran 2 -12lines off my valve cover, neither can has had anythign in it in months...

it works, do it

 

front of the VC FTW. Most ppl seem to use 2 big -10 or -12 lines off the front of the VC behind the baffles. The baffles will obviously help keep oil out as well but pressure can still escape.

The drain is only going to work if its high and you are off the throttle. Obviously if you are on track(road course), you arent off the throttle so it has no chance to drain back properly.

 

Either the Valve Cover Method with 2 -12 fittings to a separate can or:

Hook up one line going to the Endyn can to the drain (pressure still gets released fine) so you have the 2 extra nipples on the side of the Endyn can, then tap one -12an fitting to the valve cover and run it to the can. Then run the other line off the back of the block to the other side fitting.

So basically there is no T into the return line it is just a straight shot, you could even limit the back fittings to only the drain back line and use the 2 side fittings for the valve cover. In theory it should work since you will have a ton of crankcase breathers anyhow with the valve cover.

 

we actually run 2 -16's on the front of the valvecover, and a -12 on the back of it....




Modified by dturbocivic at 1:05 PM 9/23/2006

 

here are my -12 fittings with the endyn setup as well.

zero blow-by, just some water vapors in the catchcans now

 

Changing your vents to the valve cover may not be the solution to your problem. It is CRITICAL that anywhere you attach a vent (block or valve cover), that the fitting is baffled so that raw oil cannot be blown into the pressure stream.
Anytime you double or triple the original horsepower of a motor, you quadruple the pressure generated in the pan. You need multiple baffled vents in a turbo motor to relieve all the pressure generated. They must be designed to keep raw flying oil away from them as best as possible.

 

another point, my car on teh dyno with just the endyn setup, no issues with anything getting into the can, and that was with a dyno dynamics, as soon as I hit the track, it would fill up. I think it was really just teh forward momentum of the car.

 

Great, thanks for all the replies. I'm going to do this for sure.

What did you guys use to attach your -12 lines? weld, or drill and tap?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr Pooface &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My engine is new so blowby isn't the issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>

There is blowby, and there is blowby. Like Earl says, you're going to build a LOT of crankcase pressure with anything that makes any power whatsoever, period.

Big fat breathers off the valvecover are great, but then the crankcase pressure competes with the oil trying to drain into the pan. For drag cars, this results in needing baffles like Earl mentions, and oil drains back after the run just fine. For top speed cars where you're in high rpm high speed mode for a goodly duration it results in collecting all your oil in the valvecover area and potentially starving the bottom end.

Properly set up the block vents, and then worry about valve cover vents as a half-measure.

PS, my dual -12's are freebie bulkhead fittings through my valvecover, then staked and loctited in place. Bling bling, yo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by seen4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">another point, my car on teh dyno with just the endyn setup, no issues with anything getting into the can, and that was with a dyno dynamics, as soon as I hit the track, it would fill up. I think it was really just teh forward momentum of the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wondering if you used the anti siphon fittings? I had the prelude fittings on mine, and i would loose about a quart after 2 or 3 passes. i switched to the ani siphon fittings and now i have practially no oil getting to the can

 

ive had the same question also. I am shooting for 300whp high boost and 250 daily drivin. But i dont want to tap my block and remove my pcv and all that jazz. If i just hook up a breather filter to the valve cover, will i be good to go?

 

My friend is using the endyn system and he is NOT using the fitting on the back of the block closest to the timing belt side. Only using the stock nipple on the back of the valve cover (where the oem pcv was) and a fitting on the back of the block closest to the tranny side.

He was telling me thats how I should setup mine because the way he had it before was he utilized BOTH fittings on the back of the block and the oem nipple on the VC the can would fill in 10 minutes. He was telling me that fitting on the timing belt side is where alot of the oil is draining back and filling the can.

Im going to try this method, so I have no use for the 2nd oem honda fitting i bought.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adictionbass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

wondering if you used the anti siphon fittings? I had the prelude fittings on mine, and i would loose about a quart after 2 or 3 passes. i switched to the ani siphon fittings and now i have practially no oil getting to the can </TD></TR></TABLE>

the Endyn kit only comes with anti-siphon fittings. I didn't have a problem on my 400whp setup, when i hit 600whp, i had problems.

i just had weld on fitting to run the -12

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C Turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My friend is using the endyn system and he is NOT using the fitting on the back of the block closest to the timing belt side. Only using the stock nipple on the back of the valve cover (where the oem pcv was) and a fitting on the back of the block closest to the tranny side.

He was telling me thats how I should setup mine because the way he had it before was he utilized BOTH fittings on the back of the block and the oem nipple on the VC the can would fill in 10 minutes. He was telling me that fitting on the timing belt side is where alot of the oil is draining back and filling the can.

Im going to try this method, so I have no use for the 2nd oem honda fitting i bought. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i to am doing this method since the LS block , can doesn't seem like it has any oil in it and seems to be draining fine....used the stock port and a hollowed out pcv valve to vent it..