i am looking into doing my doors shaved. i have a few questions. 1 is which kit should i use, if any for the doors. also i have some "silly-noids" that i belive are just for unlock and locking the car doors. Could i just add these to the external door handle open and close rod, since the handle will not exist? And how can you enable which door you want to pop open?

 

There are more then a few out there, and more then a few ways to do it, a complete kit would be the way to go, if you have an alarm with 2 EXT outputs, you can get away with just the actuator/solenoids 2 relays and 2 "poppers" and use the alarms 2EXT outputs, [one for each door] If the alarm has 3 EXT outputs you can do drivers door, pass. door or both doors.

Here are over 500,000 sites on Google of "door poppers"... http://www.google.com/search?s...ppers 94

 

Autoloc!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tha_badguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Autoloc!</TD></TR></TABLE> Ditto that, another good one... http://www.thehoffmangroup.com...lasso 94

 

Ive got a protcol kit and had a autoloc solenoid before it got fried and feel the autoloc was a bit more consistent, as far as the solenoid is concerned. The keyless system works great though. IMO the first thing you should buy or buy at the same time is a emergency release cable for when **** goes wrong, and it will no matter how many other back ups youve planned for. Heres what Ive had happen..or thought may happen

blown fuse on power line, same as dead battery

locked keys in car

solenoid cant pull cable enough to pull latch (usually cable stretches some) even though it says prestreched

cable mount to solenoid unscrews from body of solenoid preventing it from a complete pull

heat soak - I swear I have issues w/ it working when it gets hot out

And if you got an alarm the locks the door when arming, I unplugged that feature. Doesnt make sense to lock the doors when there isnt any exterior handles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djbrandonr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO the first thing you should buy or buy at the same time is a emergency release cable for when **** goes wrong, and it will no matter how many other back ups youve planned for. Heres what Ive had happen..or thought may happen

locked keys in car

And if you got an alarm the locks the door when arming, I unplugged that feature. Doesnt make sense to lock the doors when there isnt any exterior handles.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree u should get it too!

but emergency handles are meant for the inside
having one outside the car is stupid
if u buy a kit it will come with oustide buttons u hide sumwhere in case u lock ur keys inside

& u should definetly use the door lock arming feature with shave handles because when ur alarm is armed ur doors cant b opened no matter what

just dont use the ignition controlled door lock feature because that will make it so u have to shut the engine off to open ur doors

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tha_badguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but emergency handles are meant for the inside
having one outside the car is stupid
if u buy a kit it will come with oustide buttons u hide sumwhere in case u lock ur keys inside</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think you missing it. How do you get in if the battery is dead? Tthe release is for when outside. Not a safety measure if locked in side the car.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tha_badguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
& u should definetly use the door lock arming feature with shave handles because when ur alarm is armed ur doors cant b opened no matter what</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep not even by you or AAA if something goes wrong. Im not concerned w/ someone stealing my car cause if they really want it there gonna get it. Try not to screw youself over. If the doors lock, then the battery dies the release handle is useless. Especially if you not able to get into the engine bay. Im able to pop the hood from outside, but not everyone is..

 

i doubt u have shaved door handles because u have no understanding of solving simple problems than can happen

like a dead battery which is nothing

saying if someone really wants ur car bad enuff there gonna get no matter what is the attitude that gets peoples car stolen

the only weakness to a thought out security system i see is a towtruck
& even that will take time letting the owner whats happening

now for a dead batt.
placing a deluxe banana plug somewhere outside the vehicle as a means of jumping the solenoid to pop the door is all it takes to solve that problem

 

ummm yeah actually I do have shaved handles and Im not trying to have a pissing contest. Ive gone through some of the issues listed above and some were thoughts. But ultimately you gotta think ahead for when and if the solenoid dies and the door is shut what to do.

 

whats the odds of both solenoids dying

having an emergency handle on the outside is just plain stupid
whats worse being stuck inside a car with a dead battery or outside

& with this setup being stuck outside will be impossible unless ur car is struck by lightning & both solenoids happen to give out

im just trying to give the best possible advice on how to set up a shaved system

btw having an emergency cable on the outside of ur car & not using the doors lock when armed feature is like sumone with handles arming their alarm but leaving the doors unlocked

at least turn that back on & get an emergency handle for the outside & inside if u dont wanna go the jumper route

 

OK, my turn, [unzip] I see no need for door-locks on a car with no door handles on the outside, what is the door-lock going to do?

If you have door-locks, and they are ign. controlled, and you are in the car and the batt. goes dead, and the doors are locked, just use the mechanical door-lock button to unlock the door, I guess it would be a problem if you shaved the inside door handles also, LMAO.

I do agree with djbrandonr a mechanical release, [cable] should be installed on one of the doors, there are more then a few places it can be hidden outside the car, it's in case of emergency, it does not have to be easy to get to, I have put a few inside the fender on pass side, for pass. door, in a pinch you can peel the plastic trim by hand and reach in a "pop" the door.

I have also installed power and ground terminal/plug, directly to one solenoid, in the trunk on cars with trunks, [hatches make needing an emergency way in redundant] but in the case of the terminal in the trunk, I still install the release cable, the terminal is more convenient, but it also assumes you have 12V power from someone.

You also have to keep in mind, a car door that is locked will only keep an honest person out of the car, we are not dealing with Nicolas Cage and a SlimJim, we are dealing with crack heads and car thieves and they will smash that window in a heartbeat.

I also agree that if they want it they will get it, that does not mean that I don't have a top of the line Alpine alarm in it, or that I didn't install 3 different kill switches, one of them passive, all of them hidden, but it does mean that I have one of the EXT outputs of the Alpine alarm connected to the door unlock, so when I park in a high risk area, [anyplace in downtown Vancouver] I can arm the alarm and then unlock my doors, open the door or smash the window, either way the alarm goes off, and I prefer to drive the 600 Km back to Kelowna with a window rather then plastic taped to the door. 94

 

well done...bravo..lol..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK, my turn, [unzip] I see no need for door-locks on a car with no door handles on the outside, what is the door-lock going to do?

If you have door-locks, and they are ign. controlled, and you are in the car and the batt. goes dead, and the doors are locked, just use the mechanical door-lock button to unlock the door, I guess it would be a problem if you shaved the inside door handles also, LMAO.

I do agree with djbrandonr a mechanical release, [cable] should be installed on one of the doors, there are more then a few places it can be hidden outside the car, it's in case of emergency, it does not have to be easy to get to, I have put a few inside the fender on pass side, for pass. door, in a pinch you can peel the plastic trim by hand and reach in a "pop" the door.

I have also installed power and ground terminal/plug, directly to one solenoid, in the trunk on cars with trunks, [hatches make needing an emergency way in redundant] but in the case of the terminal in the trunk, I still install the release cable, the terminal is more convenient, but it also assumes you have 12V power from someone.

You also have to keep in mind, a car door that is locked will only keep an honest person out of the car, we are not dealing with Nicolas Cage and a SlimJim, we are dealing with crack heads and car thieves and they will smash that window in a heartbeat.

I also agree that if they want it they will get it, that does not mean that I don't have a top of the line Alpine alarm in it, or that I didn't install 3 different kill switches, one of them passive, all of them hidden, but it does mean that I have one of the EXT outputs of the Alpine alarm connected to the door unlock, so when I park in a high risk area, [anyplace in downtown Vancouver] I can arm the alarm and then unlock my doors, open the door or smash the window, either way the alarm goes off, and I prefer to drive the 600 Km back to Kelowna with a window rather then plastic taped to the door. 94 </TD></TR></TABLE>

I do the same thing. I hide a two wire clip power supply wire that goes to the door pop. So all you have to do is touch it with 12 volts to pop the door. Go to hobby people and buy the electric start button for the t-maxx. Works great.

 

yeah I had a power lead on a relay hooled up intially in case of power failure, but sometimes nothing will open the door aside from the release cable which is why Im so adamnt about it. Sometimes it just gets cought up or something which I cant explain that prevents a complete pull. Usually its just the gremlins in my door f'n w/ me...

 

Well once i setup my doors with poppers. I will make the nessary backup plans in case if anything goes wrong. Also since i drive a hatchback, i can gain access to the car from the hatchback. No need for a battery backup system... But then again maybe that's to simple. And i know eveyone doesn't drive a hatchback



Modified by dem0nk1d at 1:01 AM 9/24/2006

 

No, you are right...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> [hatches make needing an emergency way in redundant] </TD></TR></TABLE> the hatch is your emergency mechanical way in, unless you locked your keys in the car......... and the solenoids did not work for whatever reason, like the remote was with the keys, or batt ent dead. 94