Howdy folks,

I bought Corey Jacobs' H1 Honda Challenge Prelude, which infamously put down 230 WHP/170 TQ with OEM Honda parts (besides valvesprings and JUN cams). intake manifold, throttle body, pistons, rods, and JUN cams.

Yeah it had Type S pistons (11:1 compression), JUN cams, Euro Accord R IM, ITR TB, SMSP Header, and super-custom intake.

Well, the motor seems to be mostly done, it overheated bad and is now not really happy to be alive. Head might be OK, block might be toast. Headgasket is definitely done (lots of water in cyl 2-4, lots of oil spitting out of my valve cover breather all over the place). Interestingly, I don't see oil in my radiator, and I don't see water in my oil.

Anyhoo, I'm building another, and if this one is mostly good I'll keep it around as a spare.

Is there anything left in the Honda Challenge rules that I can do to get more power? I've heard mixed opinions on how high one should rev the H23 bottom ends with stock rods (7000 to 8000 RPM...) I'm only revving to 8300 right now, so 8000 would be fine, but if 7000 is the limit I'll keep the H22 crank.

I might end up with a 2001 H22 bottom end, any reason not to deck the head enough to get 11:1 or better compression?

Any other pieces/combinations I should be looking at?

This is a really strong motor as-is (or was..), not sure if I'm overlooking any opporunities.

Thanks,
Chris

Basic rules, OEM parts only in bottom end (except fasteners like rod bolts). Head porting is unrestricted. Valves must be OEM size and material. Cams and valve springs/guides are free. Intake Manifold must be an OEM part. TB must be an OEM part.

 

if your using a 2001 short block you can use the f23 crank. it has 55mm mains. i dont know how strong the rods are but you should be able to 7200rpms on factory parts. it has a 97 or 98 mm stroke( i forgot). if you team that with accord tranny with a aftermarket final gear and lsd you should always be in the engines sweet spot. use typs s or jbm pistons. i also see that web cams or rocket make some of highest hp head parts(outside of jun).
? are you alowed to overbore the throttle body?

 

check this out
http://hondaswap.com/engine-bu...71332/

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alterdcreations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your using a 2001 short block you can use the f23 crank. it has 55mm mains. i dont know how strong the rods are but you should be able to 7200rpms on factory parts. it has a 97 or 98 mm stroke( i forgot). if you team that with accord tranny with a aftermarket final gear and lsd you should always be in the engines sweet spot. use typs s or jbm pistons. i also see that web cams or rocket make some of highest hp head parts(outside of jun).
? are you alowed to overbore the throttle body?</TD></TR></TABLE>

This actually was a H23 block with H22 internals (93-ish vintage).

Throttle body has to be an OEM part. So, I'm sticking with the ITR one unless something else will bolt up.

I was taking this last motor to about 8300-8500. After reading all the FAQ's and various threads on the topic, I don't see anyone making big NA power with the H23VTEC setup. I guess H22 is the safe way out..

Someone commented to me that the fat SMSP header primaries I have would like more stroke, which is part of why I was considering it. If I have to cut my redline by 1000 just to get more torque and 5% more displacement, I don't think it makes sense.

 

If you lower it but change your gear ratio to compensate then it shoul be fine, but i like to rev to so i understand

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This actually was a H23 block with H22 internals (93-ish vintage).

Throttle body has to be an OEM part. So, I'm sticking with the ITR one unless something else will bolt up.

I was taking this last motor to about 8300-8500. After reading all the FAQ's and various threads on the topic, I don't see anyone making big NA power with the H23VTEC setup. I guess H22 is the safe way out..

Someone commented to me that the fat SMSP header primaries I have would like more stroke, which is part of why I was considering it. If I have to cut my redline by 1000 just to get more torque and 5% more displacement, I don't think it makes sense.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

As the person who nearly bought that car, shame on you! How'd it overheat?

Anyways, I'm partial to the F23 crank, but I wouldn't take it to 8000rpm for more than a race at a time. Can you at least use aftermarket rods for HC or is it all OEM block?

If you do get away with using the F23 crank, you will be making very big power. Just be ready to troubleshoot the reliability of it. Also, f23 blocks can be had for dirty cheap so if you can raise the compression on them that could be your 'easiest' option.

 

i myself have the f23 block h22 combo with rsx type s pistons. I love it!

for a oem setup, this thing roasts tires. it has lots of potential. i say you go with this setup. just idk bout revving it to 8k, thats asking for it.

i had a stock f23 motor and i revved it to 7500 for about 1300 miles. i spun a rod bearing in cylinder number 3, and the main bearings had alittle to much wear on them also..

to spin these bottom ends high , you need to lighten the pistons, once thats done you can rev these motors, its all about pistons weight. also get the crank balance and so on..

right now i have 1400 miles on my new build with the rsx pistons its seen 8000 once or twice no probs. most of the time it sees 7500

 

Well, I have to use OEM unlightened Honda pistons and rods. So maybe a stroker is out of the question unless there are factory stronger/ligher pieces.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Adam. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As the person who nearly bought that car, shame on you! How'd it overheat?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, it started at 210 degrees, then it was 230, then it was closer to 250, and then poof.

I'm beginning to think a headgasket started the overheating, and then it failed really badly and that popped the radiator hose off. You can see steam coming from my car for a few laps before the hose popped off.

I also had a bunch of blowby, my valve cover breather spit oil everywhere, to add smoke to the steam

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Someone commented to me that the fat SMSP header primaries I have would like more stroke, which is part of why I was considering it. If I have to cut my redline by 1000 just to get more torque and 5% more displacement, I don't think it makes sense.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Fat? You need to talk to other people.

Keep the same set up just get the head ported properly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SMSP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Keep the same set up just get the head ported properly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah yeah yeah... I'm getting there. Just needed to kick this around a bit.