d16z6 with a turbo freshly rebuilt with all new rod bearings etc whole rebuild not more than 3000 miles on the new motor and i've spun another rod bearing what causes this? and how difficult is a rodbearing to change if i know what cylinder it is in?

 

bump

 

if your asking how difficult it is, then its prolly to difficult for you.
it sucks you spun another one, maybe it was an error from the installer

 

My thoughts from the info provided. The first one most likely spun because the clearances were off or not checked at all. The second one most likely spun because the rod wasn't replaced or reconditioned.

 

so then for future reference what could i do to lessen my chances of it happening again?

 

sounds like they just replaced the bearing and didn't even check the crank shaft and see if the journal was messed up so it might need to be turned down or replaced. The crank shaft that is

 

ok then so what kind of job is that? i pretty much trust the guy cause i bought both the turbo and the rebuild from him and both were amazing just until i drove it pretty hard.. THen i noticed the pinging again so im curious if it was just the rough riding that caused it but either way what can i do to fix it is the question so it doesnt happen anymore?

 

Rebuild the motor with fresh internals....especially the rods...a rebuild kit isnt that expensive. You might as well do everything at once so you don't have to worry about it again.

 

take it apart and measure the crankshaft journals..check the main and rod bearings clearance,,..if necassary get a new crankshaft and this time get the correct size bearings..

or maybe it was something else..who knows you gotta take it apart either way

 

well see the thing is i was toldl by my dad a 40yr mechanic that i could go in from the oil pan replace the bearing and continue driving it he said it was actually pretty easy to do. This way without pulling the motor or any of that. I Just want to know is there like a better set of bearings i can get better rods? Something of that sort i can spend a lil extra on to not have this problem again?

 

sounds like it is possible. just dont push the rod up to far and bend a valve.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cor4ey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well see the thing is i was toldl by my dad a 40yr mechanic that i could go in from the oil pan replace the bearing and continue driving it he said it was actually pretty easy to do. This way without pulling the motor or any of that. I Just want to know is there like a better set of bearings i can get better rods? Something of that sort i can spend a lil extra on to not have this problem again?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah measure everything and get the right size bearing with the proper clearance,,oem are good and come in a number of sizes,,acls's are good only if they're with in spec,,same as clevite

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cor4ey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how difficult is a rodbearing to change if i know what cylinder it is in?</TD></TR></TABLE>

after you check which bearing it is, ill just take 2 to 3 hours.

 

dont forgot to change the oil pump,

 

You don't have to change the oil pump for a spun bearing.

You said "pinging". Were you driving the motor hard before you had it tuned? If so, that's most likely what killed your bearings the first time. The second time was because the rod was reconditioned. If you don't replace or recondition the big end rod bore, you'll keep spinning bearings until you do. It's best to pull the motor and tear it completely down to measure everything properly. Your guy probably threw a set of ACL bearings in, didn't check clearances, and then called it a day. Not wise.

 

If you have spun a rod bearing, you have to pull it and get it resized or at least checked. You also have to have the crank checked to make sure it was not damaged. (I am assuming here that you do not have a set of micrometers to check it yourself)

Anything else is only asking for more problems.

Just swapping a bearing out from under the car is not a good thing to do. There is no way you can mic the crank properly, no way to check the clearance properly, and no way at all to check the rod for size.

Do yourself a favor and pull the engine and tear it down. Or you will be doing this same job again in 2-3000 miles.

I don't mean to sound critical about your dad, but his method is incorrect. And I am a 41 year old that has been building high performance engines since I was a teenager. So take it for what it's worth.

 

the first time the motor was old bought it from someone is houldnt have trusted and it was having problems.... Now im more concerned than ever.. So i have to have everything remeasured and resized? ok so bottom line what could i do to make it run minus the pinging no turbo for a long period of time? Is there anyway of not pulling the whole motor apart and basically rebuilding it again or am i going to have to rebuild it again?

 

spinning a bearing is a pretty serious problem for an engine....it's not like just changing the alternator or something and calling it a day.
the heat will cause the affected rod to become brittle, and can actually scorch the crank to the point that it changes color (like one of those titanium blue tip exhausts LOL)
i would also assume that since the bearing is a soft metal, that it transfers some material to the crank itself, throwing it out-of-round raising the risk of spinning the next bearing - just my theory.

you should really tear this engine apart and rebuild it the right way.....for that matter, i personally wouldn't even reuse the block & crank....but if a machine shop verifies that your clearances are within spec then you're good to go.

sorry for the long-winded answer that you didn't really want to hear