NRG 4 pt. H brace install for EG
<U>PICS WILL BE UP LATER TONIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!</U>
I know there are several of these thread already in the archives, but all the pics are expired and there all for EKs. Same exact concept as the EGs but still nice to have something specifically for us EG guys.
First off,
the tool List:
Jack
Jack stands
ratchet
17mm socket(for front LCA bolts)(MEDIUM DEPTH!!!)
19mm socket(For subframe structure)
Extension
Ok, so 1st step jack up the car high enough so you can comfortably work under the car and secure it with jackstands and wheel blocks. (NO pic but should be self explanatory)
then under the car I undid the 2 17mm LCA bolts(as you can see clearance between oil pan and the bolt is tight):
Then moved back to the 19mm Subframe structure(if you have an oem swaybar like I do you'll need an extension of at least 3-4" to clear the bar):
For there it was a bolt on affair literally(I used the old theory "installation is the reverse process" and started with the back 1st....If you have an oem swaybar the rear tabs go over the swaybar and then are secured by the 19mm bolts right up against the subframe(just thought I should clarify
)) I put some moly grease on the part of thebolts with no threds to prevent seizing with the bucshing sleves in the future
The 19mm bolts removed are the ones closest to the center of the car just inside the curve of the sway bar(DO NOT TIGHTEN THESE 100% JUST YET!):
Then Move up front to the LCA bolts a shallow/normal dpeth socket will not work for the install because of the way the brace is made(If you run into problems with the LCA not wanting to stay in the right place, the oem jack that comes with the car is very useful for keeping pressure on the LCA to keep it in the right spot)driver side clearance between the oil pan isn't all that much so I pushed in the bolt and did the first few threads by hand:
then double check every bolt to make sure it's snug, and go for a test drive.
Ground clearance wasn't compromised too much maybe 1/4"-1/2", but if you have a racing header or a big downpipe for turbo apps you might run into fitment issues because it's got maybe 1/2" clearance between the oem header and the bar.
Driving Impressions:
With all new swaybar bushings(ES oem direct replacements) and this brace installed it feels like a night and day difference. the front end feels incredibly solid around the corners, although I wasn't able to really have fun with it because I don't know of an abandoned area or track where I can go test it at higher than normal street speeds(more than 25-35mph going around corners or on/off ramps)..cops are bad in my area not worth a risk to me, but just normal street driving it makes a difference, so I'd imagine at the track this'll make a very nice difference
I know there are several of these thread already in the archives, but all the pics are expired and there all for EKs. Same exact concept as the EGs but still nice to have something specifically for us EG guys.
First off,
the tool List:
Jack
Jack stands
ratchet
17mm socket(for front LCA bolts)(MEDIUM DEPTH!!!)
19mm socket(For subframe structure)
Extension
Ok, so 1st step jack up the car high enough so you can comfortably work under the car and secure it with jackstands and wheel blocks. (NO pic but should be self explanatory)
then under the car I undid the 2 17mm LCA bolts(as you can see clearance between oil pan and the bolt is tight):
Then moved back to the 19mm Subframe structure(if you have an oem swaybar like I do you'll need an extension of at least 3-4" to clear the bar):
For there it was a bolt on affair literally(I used the old theory "installation is the reverse process" and started with the back 1st....If you have an oem swaybar the rear tabs go over the swaybar and then are secured by the 19mm bolts right up against the subframe(just thought I should clarify
)) I put some moly grease on the part of thebolts with no threds to prevent seizing with the bucshing sleves in the futureThe 19mm bolts removed are the ones closest to the center of the car just inside the curve of the sway bar(DO NOT TIGHTEN THESE 100% JUST YET!):
Then Move up front to the LCA bolts a shallow/normal dpeth socket will not work for the install because of the way the brace is made(If you run into problems with the LCA not wanting to stay in the right place, the oem jack that comes with the car is very useful for keeping pressure on the LCA to keep it in the right spot)driver side clearance between the oil pan isn't all that much so I pushed in the bolt and did the first few threads by hand:
then double check every bolt to make sure it's snug, and go for a test drive.
Ground clearance wasn't compromised too much maybe 1/4"-1/2", but if you have a racing header or a big downpipe for turbo apps you might run into fitment issues because it's got maybe 1/2" clearance between the oem header and the bar.
Driving Impressions:
With all new swaybar bushings(ES oem direct replacements) and this brace installed it feels like a night and day difference. the front end feels incredibly solid around the corners, although I wasn't able to really have fun with it because I don't know of an abandoned area or track where I can go test it at higher than normal street speeds(more than 25-35mph going around corners or on/off ramps)..cops are bad in my area not worth a risk to me, but just normal street driving it makes a difference, so I'd imagine at the track this'll make a very nice difference
I bought it shortly after they first came out so 75 shipped, they've come down quite abit since then.
still working on the pics
still working on the pics
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Lookincrazy
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Jul 4, 2002 12:33 AM




