i got a b18a1 and i want some lopey cams that'll give a good increase in power and sound pretty cool too, i was thinking crower stage 2's or 3's.

which cams would sound pretty sick (loud and lopey) and also give me some good power?

thanks

 

I can make your stock cams idle lopey with some fuel trim and timing changes at idle. I can also make the wildest cams idle like stock.

What is more important to you, sound or performance?

If you are serious about making power N/A, I wouldn't waste my money on a non-VTEC engine...but then again, I don't know what your goals are, so go with the Crower 3's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can make your stock cams idle lopey with some fuel trim and timing changes at idle. I can also make the wildest cams idle like stock.

What is more important to you, sound or performance?

If you are serious about making power N/A, I wouldn't waste my money on a non-VTEC engine...but then again, I don't know what your goals are, so go with the Crower 3's.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sound and performance, i'd like one that performs very well as well sounds very rough and very lopey. thing is, it's going to be tracked, but not every day, just like every week and ****, i'm just looking to do valve springs and retainers, would stage 3's still be good? or would stage 2 crowers be better and would they still be lopey?

appreciate the help

 

Don't build your motor for sound. That's just lame, dude. Build your motor for power. Crower Stage 3's on a stock motor are a complete waste. You'll have neither the compression or head flow for those.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91SiZ6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't build your motor for sound. That's just lame, dude. Build your motor for power. Crower Stage 3's on a stock motor are a complete waste. You'll have neither the compression or head flow for those.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so stage 2's would be better? i wasn't saying i'm solely basing my decision on sound, just would like a cam that sounds pretty nice as well as performs very well. would stage 2's still be lopey and be loud?

 

like 92typer said the lope is just a sign of bad tuning or a lack of tuning. my car only really lopes hardcore for a minute or 2 before its warmed up and thats with the 404's. heres my idle once warmed up, its rough but not lopey.

Click here to watch b20z404idle

Click here to watch b20teg

oh these are with 404's in a B20 with 9.6:1. in a b18a i cant guarantee great results.... 403's might be a better choice (unless you want to add some more compression)

 

that sounds nice as hell, so the 403's are stage 2's?

 

crower calls their 403's a stage 2 and 404's a stage 3. the stage number is pretty pointless though, it reminds me too much of lego building...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91SiZ6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't build your motor for sound. That's just lame, dude. Build your motor for power. Crower Stage 3's on a stock motor are a complete waste. You'll have neither the compression or head flow for those.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Stock block and head got all bolt-ons though. Pretty good if you ask me.

 

damn nice power, i think 404's are good, i am probably going to get them in a week or so, thanks fellas, more feedback is greatly appreciated

 

Yeah non-vtec motors usually put down 110-125 to the wheels bone stock.

So I have put about 30-40 horsepower to the wheels with just bolt ons.

 

that raise from 5 to 7 is just absurd, did you chip your ecu? i know it says to on crowers site..

 

These cams are for more top end power.

I got my car tuned on Crome-Pro at Whitefield racing.

Look in sig for my setup and link.


I really have to get rid of the ITR header its killing my mid range, I beleive.

 

i saw that, i was thinking of a similar setup actually, blox i/m, short ram, cheap *** ebay header cause i break them easily due to them hanging low, tanabe cat-back with test pipe, crower 404's, and getting my friend to chip the ecu afterwards since he's well known for chipping everyone's ecu's around here

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by volcom40street2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stock block and head got all bolt-ons though. Pretty good if you ask me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

As long as you know you would've gotten more effecient results with the 403's.

When I say "complete waste" you people shouldn't take it so damned literally. What I mean is that you're not using the cam to its potential and are only getting slightly better peak power than you would with a less aggressive profile. Bigger is not always better. The B18A/B is a low compression motor with a poor flowing head. Sounds like the perfect platform for all-out, full drag cams...or maybe not.

Before any of the pro's chime in. We're talking stock motors here, not the ones you build in your shop for customers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91SiZ6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

As long as you know you would've gotten more effecient results with the 403's.

When I say "complete waste" you people shouldn't take it so damned literally. What I mean is that you're not using the cam to its potential and are only getting slightly better peak power than you would with a less aggressive profile. Bigger is not always better. The B18A/B is a low compression motor with a poor flowing head. Sounds like the perfect platform for all-out, full drag cams...or maybe not.

Before any of the pro's chime in. We're talking stock motors here, not the ones you build in your shop for customers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well you need to look at crower website at the dyno graph between the 403 and 404.(http://www.crower.com/cat/impo...shtml. Now how reliable is this ???? But it deos give an indication of the two cam profiles in basically the same setup engines.

The 404 on these"stock block and head" motors, it seems to me by eyeballing the graphs the 404's are a little better than the 403's. They out perform then everywhere it looks like. So I really don't know what you mean when you say I would have "more efficient results" with 403's?

Maybe you mean I would have more usable torque down low than up high. I understand that. I really think this ITR 4-1 Header is killing my low end torque. All dyno plots I have seen with ls using a relatively small collector with a 4-2-1 design do better than a custom ones and 4-1 applications. I see 160-170 horsepower nonvtec motors using small tubing and a 4-2-1 design seem to work better on these engines.

One member put a profab on his and gained like 2 hp and 4 Tq over his DC 4-2-1.

I do agree bigger is not always better

 

You answered your own question.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91SiZ6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You answered your own question.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Dang I'm smart