specs...

JdM B18C (Gsr)

Stock Block and tranny
Buddy club Cams IV
Buddy club retainers
Buddy club cam gears
Buddy club dual valve springs
Omni Flat Valves
DC sports 4-2-1
Skunk2 mani, stock TB
CAI
B&M fuel reg & fuel gauge
Walboro fuel pump 255
Port & Polished head
2 1/4 custom exhaust


Results - 172whp (TBA) tq

Modified by BubLBack at 9:01 AM 9/15/2006


Modified by BubLBack at 8:30 PM 9/16/2006


Modified by BubLBack at 8:02 PM 9/19/2006


Modified by BubLBack at 8:03 PM 9/19/2006


Modified by BubLBack at 10:08 AM 9/21/2006


Modified by BubLBack at 10:08 AM 9/21/2006

 

well all i can say so far is that
dc header as well as the very small 2 1/4 exhaust are holding you back some....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BubLBack33 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
DC sports 4-2-1

2 1/4 custom exhaust (stock cat)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds about right.

 

YO sort out the header exhaust and tb and you should see a big differance.

 

well let me dig around in my honda-tech bag of buzz words, buzz advice...

"you should get a "real" header, and probably some better tuning"


What's shocking is that no one mentioned the fact that you're running stock compression with Buddy Club IVs!!!

Agressive Cams bleed off compression, they also really like high compression engines for a number of reasons.

You don't need a better header or probably even better TB at this point .....but you do need some compression... at least 11.5:1. - those omni flat valves aren't going to get you the kind of compression you need to really take advantage of cams that big.


Nathan

 

Im not too sure what the whp is on a gsr, but an ITR gets anywhere from 165-170 whp stock. With bolt ons it bumps it up around 180-185whp and cams get it around 200whp tuned. If you havnt tuned it yet, thats probably what kept your numbers low.

 

I doubt the car would drive enough to get to the dyno if it weren't tuned....

Nathan, I think at this point it has been shown enough times that dc headers suck ***....a real header WOULD pick up hp, and though it seems to be just a trend, it is truely advice that WORKS......you do make a good point but dont patronize me for giving valid advice

btw where in raleigh are you i live here too

 

yes, but I'm also getting tired of everyone pointing to that FIRST, when there are obviously much more problematic issues at hand here .

No one is debating that the DC header is inferior to the other proven headers.... quite the contrare, but I'm with many of the others who have realized that honda-tech tends to go in 'trends'..... and I just don't want people to get lost spending money on things that aren't going to help as the source of their issue is elswhere. I agree, a better header will be benefcial....especially when he has the compression to truly take advantage of tha theader.

As for where in Raleigh, towards NCSU.

Nathan

 

the car was tuned on the dyno...i'll have pics of the graph later...would i have run better numbers if i went with BC3's?

 

You def need a better tune.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NathanMorris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, but I'm also getting tired of everyone pointing to that FIRST, when there are obviously much more problematic issues at hand here .

No one is debating that the DC header is inferior to the other proven headers.... quite the contrare, but I'm with many of the others who have realized that honda-tech tends to go in 'trends'..... and I just don't want people to get lost spending money on things that aren't going to help as the source of their issue is elswhere. I agree, a better header will be benefcial....especially when he has the compression to truly take advantage of tha theader.

As for where in Raleigh, towards NCSU.

Nathan</TD></TR></TABLE>

Understood, I'm on level with you as far as the trend stuff is concerned.

I go to state too...

 

His compression will be fine, no "need" to have more. Of course more compression will be more power, but the cams don't need that to be useful. If the intake-head-exhaust cant flow and work together properly then the motor will not see a significant increase with the bigger cams. I don't see adj cam gears on the list, but it must just be the dc sports header I guess.


Modified by Runnerdown at 2:15 AM 9/16/2006

 

It is your compression. The dc header is fine as long as it isn't crushed.

 

problem is compression, period. youre overcamming that motor big time without upping the comp. and youre losing big power because of it. that same motor with proper pistons and exhaust system would make 200hp+.

 

Ur using a stock (non adjustable) cam gear with those cams ?

 

@ some of these posts


Modified by Runnerdown at 3:23 AM 9/16/2006

 

Your biggest issue is the cams, they are indeed too large. A set of P30 pistons would work better, increasing the compression thus picking up power throughout the revs after 3500rpm. If you pull the head, milling it to increase the compression further is not a bad idea, but just remember to compensate with the cam timing by adjusting your cam gears. If you're just worried about extracting peak power, have your TB bored out because that is more restrictive than your header at this point. Your intake manifold and header dictate where power is shifted in the RPM band. The one's you've selected should work well with those cams. I must assert though, tuning is crucial. With that stock block, I wouldn't suggest revving beyond 8200rpms.

My twenty cents,
-Mike

 

ur MAIN issure is ur header AND ur compression ratio. i tuned a GSR motor runnign 12.5:1 CR on BCIV, S2IM, ANR header. he had a shitty 2 1/4" exhuast which led to a stock GSR muffler. the car made 169whp. we put an exhuast cutout the HP jumped up to 200whp on hondata running a total timing of 26*

 

Sorry forgot to add the buddy club cam gears....

So, should I keep my stock block and upgrade my pistons, piston rings, crank etc...to up my compression? or should i just get a B20 block and rebuild that or keep that B20 block stock? what would be cheaper route? and what am I looking at price wise, to rebuild my block or get a B20 block?

suggestions, anyone??

 

By the way....thanks for your input guys...very much appreciated!!!!

 

I personally like a design with 5+ bolts for adjustable cam gears!


Modified by SleepEMike at 10:41 PM 9/18/2006

 

If you want the cheapest route.... I guess a thinner headgasket and some adjustment to the cam timing would be cheap....ish....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by X2BOARD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want the cheapest route.... I guess a thinner headgasket and some adjustment to the cam timing would be cheap....ish....</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol he still woudln't acheived the ideal compression for bc4's

op pick up a header, goto a muffler shop and have them make u a full 2 1/2in exahsut for around 100$. you could also get some brand new usdm tr pistons i beleive are 200$ from http://www.inlinefour.com that'd bump u in the 11.5:! area . also maybe some 310cc injectors would help your overall powerband. walbro pump?

 

lol he still woudln't acheived the ideal compression for bc4's

op pick up a header, goto a muffler shop and have them make u a full 2 1/2in exahsut for around 100$. you could also get some brand new usdm tr pistons i beleive are 200$ from http://www.inlinefour.com that'd bump u in the 11.5:! area . also maybe some 310cc injectors would help your overall powerband. walbro pump?

Agreed

 

LMAO BC gears are forged 7075 aluminum and are stronger and lighter than billit 6061 gears but go ahead and think your getting something better elsewere.

btw my gears have never slipped, and ive never heard a single person with the BC gears having them slip.