I have a mint 1994 Accord/ F22B2 engine. I am 46, and restoring the car for high speed freeway use- no money wasted to build a racing engine I do not need. The entire suspension/brakes have already been completed (ES bushings/GR2 struts/upgrade brakes, etc) and are very, very nice. I also have a K/M air-intake system. I do not want to drastically alter the engine/drivetrain, due to the fact the body-style/trims are rare, and I have already been offerred $$$$$$ for the car- it is becoming a collector car, and I plan to keep it mostly stock.

I have A++ compression at the bottom-end, but the valves need work. I have already added a cat back system, and plan to add headers, perf coil/dist. As for the head, I plan to have the TB and head ported phase 1, add a very mild street-cam (GUDE grind), and upgrade valves, seals, guides. When done (everything) I project 20-25 HP. I plan to keep the car another 20+ years, I do not need HP/torque for racing, and I do not like to spend every weekend fixing "broke-stuff". I have a life.

Valve parts for the H22B2 non-VTEC are HARD to find. I wanted a 0.5+ mil valve, but have found only 2 companies in the world that produce them- Ferrea and KMS. Sorry, raceheads, but TWO very good machinists have warned me thay have lately seen warped valvestems showing up on out of the box Ferrea valves. Another factor is a "complete" kit of Ferrea componenets would run around $1000- this is NOT a racing engine!

GUDE recommended using stock (new) OEM springs/retainers/keepers and upgrading to brass inserts and better seals. That leaves the 0.5 valves, which could be Ferrea, if they test STRAIGHT.

KMS specializes is self-produced Honda performance kits. The probelm here is I have not found one machinist that has used their valvetrain products and can give any opinion as to the quality. Very frustrating.

I would highly appreciate input from very experienced Honda mechanics (20+ years) or good machinists regarding the quality of the Ferrea Comp-plus valves, and whether they believe GUDE is on-track regarding staying with stock springs for longer engine-life at street/freeway use. Any input as to the long-term tested quality of the KMS (NOT HKS) components would be appreciated. Not "I have a 2000 mi engine and love the products" but "I have a 20,000 mile head and have had no problems".

Please, no motorheads plying extreme performance stories. The car is 12 years old, and the purpose is to build a head that will run well at street/freeway use for another 100,000 miles without any breakdowns/headaches.

My work is A+++ quality, and all repairs/upgrades I have done on the car are set for 100,000 miles. The goal is a slightly upgraded street engine that is bullet-proof and has exterme mileage endurance. The upgrades at the head should match 2-3 years in the future when I drop the block. Then I plan to have the stock crank re-ground and add only forged street-pistons. Thanks- wrenchy

 

sorry bro but get off the high horse... you keep contradicting yourself. what do you want to do with this car... you want it to go fast but you don't need hp or tw hmmmm wtf????


and someones going to slam you on this but your car only has one header. sounds like you need to make up your mind and build this beast. deep down inside you know you want to. a fine built f series motor is hard to come by and f motors are easily obtainable for fairly cheap. have fun with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gaydm.accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you want it to go fast but you don't need hp or tw hmmmm wtf????</TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe you should reread his post. He said he wants it for high speed freeway use (my guess would be under 100 mph), and doesn't need hp for racing (which means enough hp to move the car at freeway speeds).

 

Raw horsepower and torque are mostly needed for very fast starts from zero to whatever, as needed in a quarter-mile race-trial or street-racing. High HP and torque are not needed for a freeway car- moderate horsepower from well-balanced engine-drivetrain will do the job.

I have a 2001 Avalon that will cruise at 2900 RPM at 90 MPH with a stock 210 HP engine (upgraded suspension/HP tires). The high-speed abilities are due to the fact the tranney is geared extremely low at freeway-speeds. With this type combo, high HP/torque are not needed to keep the car rolling- Newton's law of conservation of energy.

High horsepower engines are very expensive to build, and are a waste if you don't race. Moderate horsepower/torque engines will work better with a mostly stock suspension/drivetrain without tearing all components loose. If you build high HP/torque, you'd better spend thousands on HP driveaxles, comp-clutches, upgraded tranney-gears, etc. etc. etc. I would guess the average "tuner" spends $20,000-$30,000 to really set a car up right for racing. I will have this car almost completlely restored at about $8000.

That will include ES bushings at all frame-points, upgraded brakes, HP tires with Centerline forged rims, a decent rebuild/port of the head, forged pistons, "headers" with a cat-back system, HP coil and dist, a TB spacer, timing gear for the cam, upgraded fuel-pump with new rail and injectors, high grade clutch and driveaxles, a good OEM factory color paint job You can build a good car on a budget. True, you have to do all the work yourself. I am already about 60% done and only have about $4000 into the car.

You don't buy "header". You buy "headers", singular/plural. Check any parts-site.

I used to build big-blocks as a youngster (Mustangs, Camaros, Firebirds, etc.) It was fun, but cost a ton of money and constant time to repair "breakage" from racing. I also burned out on constantly being nailed with tickets from police. A well-build freeway car is more useful for me now. As you get older life's priorities change.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrenchy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 2001 Avalon that will cruise at 2900 RPM at 90 MPH with a stock 210 HP engine (upgraded suspension/HP tires). The high-speed abilities are due to the fact the tranney is geared extremely low at freeway-speeds. With this type combo, high HP/torque are not needed to keep the car rolling- Newton's law of conservation of energy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your tranny is geared that low is good. But you need tons of torque at low engine rpms to keep the car moving. And what does conservation of energy have to do with this?

2900 at 90 on stock engine. Big deal. At 90, I'm probably around 3600 (I don't remember) on a stock 4 cyl (Accord, 150 hp) with 4 people in the car. I don't see what you're trying to prove here.