Car made 193whp, 135tq
My new setup-
B18c1 longblock
USDM 82mm b16a pistons
Skunk2 Pro2 Cams
Skunk2 Pro Series springs/retainers
Flat top valves
Skunk2 Intake manifold
Custom Header
Apexi World Sport 2.5 Exhaust
Head is milled
AEM Cam Gears
AEM Intake w/velocity stack
AEM FPR/Fuel Rail
Tuned by neptune-
Compression should fall around 12.6 or so-
DSM 450cc Injectors

I ran a 60mm throttle body and will be putting a new 68mm on in a week. The only other thing I can think of changing is to port the skunk2 IM.

 

Why do you want to change anything? are you looking for more power?

A plot of your dyno run would be helpful.

 

if it is dynojet #, that setup should make more

 

i bet "custom header" is garbage. thats the only weak point i see. theres no way in blue hell that a nice high end market header liek an rmf, or rage or sms would keep that motor under 200. something def wrong with that motor.

oh and dsm 450s are way too big. 310s should be enough at like 80% duty cycle

 

sorry , i didnt mean to meantion the word "header" and turn this into another 14 page shitstorm header battle. i humbly apologize

edit: if your CR is 12.6 and youre on pump gas, youre tuner had to pull so much timing out of your curve to get it to not detonate.

also, anyone who built a motor with that expensive a list of parts who DOESNT know his EXACT compression ratio, doesnt need to be building motors.

or...this is fiction.

 

what was your old set up running?and what whp?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by black99x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1834cc 12.6:1 GSR
Skunk2 Pro2's, IM, Cam Gears
68mm Throttle Body
AEM Short Ram w/Velocity Stack
60mm Apexi Exhaust, Custom 4-1 Header (comparable to usdm dc-sports)
Tuned by neptune

Do you guys think I'm overcamming the motor by alot? One day I would like to have an 85*89 setup with a fully ported head but that is a long ways away!</TD></TR></TABLE>

theres your problem. end thread.

 

I have no numbers on the old setup- The header/exhaust is one of the weakest points I can see as well- The tuner did not think the header was hurting all that much. I will probably pick up an RMF Header, Actual 2.5" exhaust, port the intake manifold and get a good valve job... Then I will go back to the dyno..... too bad this will all take at lease 6 months. I did not know the exact compression of the motor becuase the old owner said the head was milled but gave no numbers.

 

Why should I go to 310's when I already have the 450s? This was on a dynapack at evans tuning!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by black99x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have no numbers on the old setup- The header/exhaust is one of the weakest points I can see as well- The tuner did not think the header was hurting all that much. I will probably pick up an RMF Header, Actual 2.5" exhaust, port the intake manifold and get a good valve job... Then I will go back to the dyno..... too bad this will all take at lease 6 months. I did not know the exact compression of the motor becuase the old owner said the head was milled but gave no numbers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

buy another head, sell the one you have. keep your valvetrain. get the valvejob done on the new head with your old valves, making sure they lap them in. that way you know whats going on with the motor. how do you knwo there isnt .030 off the head and your CR is more like 13.1:1 on pump gas? guess work has no place in engine building.

 

you need a 72mm throttle body and to match port it to your skunk 2. you also need to find a local v-8 machine shop(cheapest)and have them cut your plenum so you can port the runners. match your intake mini. gasket to your intake manifold and your head(optional) and have them seal it up(under 100 bucks) and get a retune. then we can work from their

 

you ai it in the begining but you need a bigger throttle body. did you port the head? think about and fluid dampner pully and a grounding system. make sure you run a velosity stack on a 3 inch cold air(street car). also if your clearences alow use asmoil ot torco 5-w20 fully syntec and a oil cooler(longjevity)good luck

 

I have a 68mm throttle going on, The head is stock- Getting the IM ported is the next thing I would like to do but I dont know if I can do it myself.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alterdcreations &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you ai it in the begining but you need a bigger throttle body. did you port the head? think about and fluid dampner pully and a grounding system. make sure you run a velosity stack on a 3 inch cold air(street car). also if your clearences alow use asmoil ot torco 5-w20 fully syntec and a oil cooler(longjevity)good luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

and while youre on ebay pick up the tornado to shove in that intake

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDEFTONESx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">guess work has no place in engine building.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so if the 4-1 header and 60mm exhaust is the problem, what guess will you make on the optimal primary diameter and length, as well as collector shape and size to make a "better" header...given the air speed, displacement and cam profile? Is there a better name (HT common practice)... or a better combination for the engine speeds black99x wants to emphasize?

 

The header and a bigger tb will help,my advice is to do whatever Jeff tells you.That is the best advice anyone on here could give you

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JerseySiPOS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so if the 4-1 header and 60mm exhaust is the problem, what guess will you make on the optimal primary diameter and length, as well as collector shape and size to make a "better" header...given the air speed, displacement and cam profile? Is there a better name (HT common practice)... or a better combination for the engine speeds black99x wants to emphasize?</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok let me be specific, theres no guess work in clearances. i.e. milling/decking, bearing selection.

he has clearly stated he has no clue how much is off that head.

dont try to be cool coming in here and spouting off exhuast mani terminology youve read in rmf/smsp threads, i never even touched on that.

but if youd like to argue that is "dc-sports-like" header is great and theres nothing better, then you sir are more rad than a brand new guns n roses slap bracelet

"oh the rage header isnt better unless you can perfectly match it to the exhuast gas speed and temperature determined by cam profile...."

pffft whatever. you throw someone a bone, tell them where their weak point is, and why they havent broken 200, and point out a couple more shortcomings, i.e. a mystery head, and an HT stunner always surfaces.

 

Come on guys this should have just been a quick easy question. I got my answer and I'm happy. I will change things around (when I get money and be good) I don't know why a thread always needs a **** fight- Lets all grow up. I will be putting the bigger tb, ported type r manifold, rmf header, (maybe a good valve job and a 2.5" exhaust and then see how the dyno goes! When I have $1500 to waste I will let you all know.

 

I've always understood that it's pointless to port your IM until you have a PnP done to the head.

 

I think the port n polish head is more of the waste. If someone could guarantee 25whp out of just a port I'd be all in but for the 5whp I would expect I think I would not be worth it. It would be more worth it to build up a B20 block for me.

 

I do have to agree with the ported head bit.

It seems every short-coming on your engine has been pointed out by others here, so no use perpetuating the same re-hashed info.

Good luck, and don't be discouraged with your dyno numbers.

It's just a number.

Go to the track, and find out what it runs. To me, E.T.'s and trap speeds mean more than dyno numbers.

- Derek

 

I will be going to the track as soon as it stops raining here in NJ! I need to have the drag radials put on. I wish I had some slicks to run but will have to see how the drag radials will do. I'm not really discouraged- Just always looking to make more power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDEFTONESx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ok let me be specific, theres no guess work in clearances. i.e. milling/decking, bearing selection.

he has clearly stated he has no clue how much is off that head.

dont try to be cool coming in here and spouting off exhuast mani terminology youve read in rmf/smsp threads, i never even touched on that.

but if youd like to argue that is "dc-sports-like" header is great and theres nothing better, then you sir are more rad than a brand new guns n roses slap bracelet

"oh the rage header isnt better unless you can perfectly match it to the exhuast gas speed and temperature determined by cam profile...."

pffft whatever. you throw someone a bone, tell them where their weak point is, and why they havent broken 200, and point out a couple more shortcomings, i.e. a mystery head, and an HT stunner always surfaces.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you da man.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-Rob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I do have to agree with the ported head bit.

It seems every short-coming on your engine has been pointed out by others here, so no use perpetuating the same re-hashed info.

Good luck, and don't be discouraged with your dyno numbers.

It's just a number.

Go to the track, and find out what it runs. To me, E.T.'s and trap speeds mean more than dyno numbers.

- Derek</TD></TR></TABLE>

i couldnt agree more. that reminded me of this thread, https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1743644. to the op, do u have a dyno sheet we can see?

 

i am sure that a ported manifold matched to the stock head along with a larger throttle body will gain power. as for the 68 mm throttle body. i would get a 70 or 72mm for your engine. its worth it to go alittle bigger