I was just wondering if any of you have tryed using these and if so how many miles u got on your motor and if you have had any problems i found some high comp pistons for my d16 but the full foaters and my cars gonna be a daily driver and ive read there not good for dd

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by myhondasrusty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was just wondering if any of you have tryed using these and if so how many miles u got on your motor and if you have had any problems i found some high comp pistons for my d16 but the full foaters and my cars gonna be a daily driver and ive read there not good for dd </TD></TR></TABLE>

The skirtless pistons? They are super lightweight I was told, and they really let the engine rev fast. I haven't heard anything bad adleast! I personally don't hold any experience tho. We've been using half, or low skirt pistons.

 

ya i read on one forum they werent very reliable i was just trying to get others input

 

skirtless is not full floating
this is in regards to how the pin is oriented thru the piston/rod

The full-floating pin is free to rotate in the connecting rod and in the bosses, and wirelocks or snap-ring locks prevent it from working out against the sides of the cylinder.

most aftermarket pistons use this configuration. you push the piston pin in by hand thru one side of the piston, thru the small end on the connecting rod, and thru the other side of the piston pin boss.
be careful, as you may not be able to push in the pin by hand and will have to have the connecting rods small end bushing honed. as i had to do this with my Eagle rods and SRP pistons

i don't know if this effects reliability any. full floating just lets everything rotate and is supposed to reduce friction. and you don't need a press to press in the piston pin with that configuration. i believe with other configurations a machine shop heats up the piston and rod end a little with a torch in order to get the pin to slide in.

 

so basically its going to kind of be a pain in the *** to put it together

 

On the assumption that you are talking about floating piston pins, there is no structural reason why they are any less reliable.

The only issue is that you have to make sure that the locking clips are in fully.

Wes

 

well the pin is supplied with the piston. sometimes the rod ends don't have the right clearance from what i was told by a competent machine shop

do you realize with the new pistons. you are going to have to GAP every ring to the proper clearance. you can't just throw the rings on the piston and put it back into the engine. you have to put each ring into a cylinder and check the gap, then file till you get the proper clearance. then you have to make sure you put the proper rings back into the proper cylinder

also there is a piston skirt to cylinder wall clearance that is necessary. forged pistons expand more then cast pistons, so they have to have bigger clearances from the cylinder walls.

 

meh ive done it on 4 stroke 4 wheelers before and i would assume the proper gapping would be in the haynes manual i hope heh

 

the gapping specs will be included with the piston rings

forged pistons use different gapping values then a cast piston, so i wouldn't use the values in the haynes manual. use values from the piston ring manufacturer

 

alright thanks probabyl would of been the 1st thing i did liek a bone head too