So I just completed my first stereo system pretty much ever. Seen a few in real life but never did one myself from scratch.

The system is 2 audiobahn 12" aw1206t subs, 2 Clarion DPX 1000.2 amps in a ported fairly large box.

I was looking to make these things absolutely POUND, I got them working today but there really not that loud, you can tell theres bass and you can feel it, but its knowwhere near to hurting or being LOUD

I most likely am messed up on the wiring or amp settings and maybe you can help me based on these things Im gonna write next.

Problems - turned volume upto 75%, subs played "hard" for about 1min and then cut out for about 30 seconds.

When the subs were playing I was watching them and one sub was moving in and out probably more than twice as much as the other. I felt the amp for the one moving farther and it was quite a bit hotter than the other.

Ofcourse near the end of that song I turned it up and I popped the main power fuse for my power wire (40amp all I had)

I also know these amps are 1ohm stable, the 1ohm mode light did not come on, on the amplifier. Would like for these subs to pound

Heres a diagram of how everything is wired up and my subwoofer/amp specs.

Note: the power wires from the dist block to the amps, each amp has 2 8gauge wires going to the power terminal form the dist block (no 4ga available)

and for my remote wire for both amps I tapped into the single remote wire coming from my deck.


The subs Im going to be running are old but new audiobahn aw1206t subs, specs:
Mounting Depth: 6 3/4”
Hole Cutout: 10 7/8”
Outer Diameter: 12 1/2”
Subwoofer SpecificationsSize: 12 inch
Rec. Sealed Box Dims: .5 - 1.25 cu.ft.
Rec. Ported Box Dims: 1.3 - 3.2 cu.ft
Free Air Usage: not recommended
Sensitivity: 96.4 dB
Frequency Response: 20-500 Hz
Recommended RMS Power: 1100W
Peak Power Handling: 2200W
Impedance: dual 4 ohms subwoofer wiring options

And the 2 amps are again old but new Clarion DPX 1000.2 amps
250 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms
450 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms
500 watts RMS x 2 at 1 ohm
1,000 watts RMS at 2 ohms in bridged mode
stereo or bridged mono output
Tri-way capable (Tri-Way Crossover required)
requires 4-gauge power and ground leads — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
MOSFET power supply
variable 55-550 Hz low-pass crossover with selectable 12 or 24 dB/octave slope
0-15 dB variable bass boost at 45 Hz
selectable subsonic filter at 24 Hz

I personally dont know much about this so any help or adivse is appreciated, Im off to search for a newer fuse when i fugre out how big I need.

Thanks guys

 

http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=3347197

 

First you should be running at least a 4 gauge cable to each amp, and each amp power lead should have a 100A fuse on it.

Beef up the batt. to chassis ground, [add a 2ga from batt. neg.(-) to one of the shock tower studs, sand off the paint] also amp grounds should be 4ga, as short as possible and grounded to the same point.

The DVC 4 ohm subs can be wired down to 2 ohms, amps are 1x1000W into 2 ohms, [max power] and amp needs 86A to do that, kind of under-powering the subs with those amps.

The other thing I would have a look at is the "amp mode" switches make sure x-over switch is set to low pass and make sure the other switch is set to bridged (right in] and that the RCA lead is plugged into each amps right input, in fact make sure all the switchs for both amps are exactly the same, and the RCA is plugged into the right input only.... http://www.clarion.com/ca/en/M...1.pdf 94

 

Ya I had to work with what I had for the amp power wires

For the gain setting on this amp, I really dont get how to use it, its just a dial that just endlessly spins, you dont know where you are or what revlution is doing what, so I dont get how to set that

Why would one speaker move more than the other?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its just a dial that just endlessly spins, you dont know where you are or what revlution is doing what, so I dont get how to set that</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is it the same on both amps? To me it sounds like one of your amps has a bad gain pot. That would cause the difference in loudness between the subs. The gains on both amps would need to be set the same, but since you have no indication of the position of the pot, you need to use the sub excursion as an indicator of the gain. Sounds like you have one sub working, so use that one as a reference and play with the gain on the other amp so that the excursion of the subs match.

 

I guess I need a bass testing song or something

as well as a large dam fuse

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as well as a large dam fuse</TD></TR></TABLE>

Start out by throwing a 100A in there. You're running 4ga from the battery to the distribution block? If you blow that fuse, you'll need to upgrade to 4ga for each amp, but I doubt that will happen.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> First you should be running at least a 4 gauge cable to each amp, and each amp power lead should have a 100A fuse on it.

Beef up the batt. to chassis ground, [add a 2ga from batt. neg.(-) to one of the shock tower studs, sand off the paint] also amp grounds should be 4ga, as short as possible and grounded to the same point.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't you think that's pointless? There is no reason to run dual 100A fuses and upgrading all the wiring if all this will be run off the stock charging system. I agree that he should be running at least 4ga for each amp, but without a good power source, this is useless.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 02 accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Don't you think that's pointless? There is no reason to run dual 100A fuses and upgrading all the wiring if all this will be run off the stock charging system. I agree that he should be running at least 4ga for each amp, but without a good power source, this is useless.</TD></TR></TABLE>

its all cumulative, even if theres voltage sag from lack of alternator output, there is also sag from resistance on the wire. though, I doubt it would truly fix his problem.

check the phase on the woofers. It sounds to me like you have a broken gain pot in one amplifier, mixed with one that's too high on the other. overheating problems in the caraudio world are almost always linked to maxed gains.

sounds to me like what you need is a fuse, and a DMM.

 

I am going to have to agree with 02 accord it sounds like you have a problem with the gain control(s) it/they should not turn more then about 300 degrees, if it/they turn 360 and more the "pot" is damaged, and I ask the same thing, is this on one or both the amps?

As for the fuse, it is not just the fuse but the gauge of power, [and ground] cable that is crucial in delivering enough current to the amps, along with the length of the lead and as I said those amps need 86A to make their 1000W max power, [f*%# I hate manufacturer's that use the "how can we fudge the numbers" specs]
anyway as I said I recommend 4ga power and ground for both the amps and 100A fuses, [it would be nice if you could find 86A fuses, but that's not going to happen].

If the amps can't get the current they need they will not make their max power, [whatever it is] meaning the amp will start to "clip" a lot sooner then if they have enough current, and as you are already under-powered, [recommended power for those subs is 1100W RMS] you can damage the subs.

BTW, if you need good 4ga power cable, go to your local welding supply store and pick up some 4ga welding cable, much better then any "car audio power cable" and at 1/2 or less the price, yes its only available in black, but then the color of the power cable will make no diff. at all. 94

 

Both amp gains are the same and just spin and spins and spin

I suppose I could rig up another power wire ONE DAY (id have too order online) so each amp had its own 4gauge wire, maybe Ill splice 2 8gauges together I dont know

Even with the power Im giving them, shouldnt they pound a lot harder?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the amps can't get the current they need they will not make their max power</TD></TR></TABLE>

Obviously. But if the alternator isn't putting out the current they need, no matter how big of a wire you use, they will still not get the needed current. And there is no way that his stock alternator will put out 172 amps peak (for the amps) plus whatever is needed for the car electronics.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as you are already under-powered, [recommended power for those subs is 1100W RMS] you can damage the subs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

They're audiobahns. Don't trust their ratings.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Even with the power Im giving them, shouldnt they pound a lot harder?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That would depend on the box you're using. You said it was ported. Do you know what frequency the box is tuned to? My guess would be that your box tuning frequency is too high, and the output from the sub and the port cancel out since they are out of phase.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 02 accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Obviously. But if the alternator isn't putting out the current they need, no matter how big of a wire you use, they will still not get the needed current. And there is no way that his stock alternator will put out 172 amps peak (for the amps) plus whatever is needed for the car electronics.</TD></TR></TABLE> That would be the case if there was no batt. in the car, however music is "dynamic"
and the batt. will supply the current when needed, [untill batt. is drawn down too much] and just because the alt. can't put out the current is no excuse for not putting in the power cable required, you would just be adding to the problem. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the batt. will supply the current when needed</TD></TR></TABLE>

It will, but at only 12v instead of 14 that the alternator would put out. And when that happens, you get dimming lights. If he were to run his system this way, he would kill the alternator before he would have any problems with the wiring. Yes, the thin wiring adds to the problem, but if he has any common sense, he would turn it down until his lights aren't dimming. If he wants to run the system at full output, he'll have to upgrade the wiring and the alternator, but for now, I don't see a problem with running it the way it is if he can control the volume.

 

But its not even loud, its not a system yet. Ive seen much lower end systems with much lower powerred amps that could actually do osmething, shake something, make youre ears hurt a bit.......

 

I told you, need more info on the box. A box plays a big part in how a sub sounds.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Even with the power Im giving them, shouldnt they pound a lot harder?</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 02 accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That would depend on the box you're using. You said it was ported. Do you know what frequency the box is tuned to? My guess would be that your box tuning frequency is too high, and the output from the sub and the port cancel out since they are out of phase.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I honestly have no idea what frequency the ports would be, its a 50" long box, 13" tall, 6" deep at the top and 10" deep at the bottom, It slopes backwards

The subs are on the far ends of the box with 2 ports in the middle measuring 2" X 8" and 4.5" deep

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 02 accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It will, but at only 12v instead of 14 that the alternator would put out. And when that happens, you get dimming lights. If he were to run his system this way, he would kill the alternator before he would have any problems with the wiring. Yes, the thin wiring adds to the problem, but if he has any common sense, he would turn it down until his lights aren't dimming. If he wants to run the system at full output, he'll have to upgrade the wiring and the alternator, but for now, I don't see a problem with running it the way it is if he can control the volume.</TD></TR></TABLE> It's not the volts but the current, [amps] that the amp uses to make the power, the amps are designed to work, [as all car audio is] with voltage between 11V and 14.5V and how much current can be supplied to the amp is determined by the wire gauge, 14V and 10A is not going to get you 1000W max or otherwise, an 18ga wire will carry 14V it will however burn to a crisp if you try and draw 86A through it.
And yes of coarse if he keeps it turned down, and if he understands why he has to keep it down then yes he could run it the way it is, but then I'm kind of a do it right kind of guy and the way it is is not right, irregardless of whether the alt. needs upgrading or the subs specs are overrated or anything else.

Also irregardless of box volume, 2 identical amps set up the same way should produce the same output for each sub, [or close enough that the diff. is not very apparent, no 2 amps are exactly the same] he has a problem with the amps, damaged gain controls, and nothing will change unless they are repaired 94

 

well aint that a bitch

 

Well each amp now basically has its own 4gauge power cord fomr the battery, thats the best I could do with what I have, one is a 4gauge the other amp gets 2 8gauge

Im also gonna go try and pick up a set of Y rca adapters form the budget electrical store as well as another pack of 80amp fuses which should now be enough since each amp has its own inline fuse

Still unsure of what set of rcas off the deck to use to go to the amps though, as well as how to set my gain

 

That should take care of power, however the amp uses 86A for full, ["max"] power.

You still have the problem of damaged gain controls,

Also why are you getting the "Y" adaptors?

What is the make and model of the HU? 94

 

I was told by a guy in my complex that I needed the Y adaptors because of the preouts on my deck.

He said I should be using the "sum out" and disregarding the front and rear output sets, so to get that "sum out" set to both my amps, I would have to split each connector then run them to my amps

Will the remote gain control ***** I have not work?

 

also the deck is a rockford fosgate, i'll get the model number in a minute, its kinda old, motorized flip down when you change the cd

 

No I havent tried the 9v test yet because stores dont open til 12 here on sundays and I cant find one in the house

I dont really how to set my gains, I did however find the remote bass control ***** for the amps, I dont know if those can alone control it or not, but it clips into the amp like a telephone cord then you can mount the **** on your dash. I dont know if what its set at on the amp dial matters though

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was told by a guy in my complex that I needed the Y adaptors because of the preouts on my deck. </TD></TR></TABLE> Tell him not to quit his day job.
Use the "Bridged (Right In)" on the Amp Mode switch, [center position] and plug one RCA into the right input of each amp, he is right about using the "sum out" or non fading outputs from the HU.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Will the remote gain control ***** I have not work?</TD></TR></TABLE> No.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No I havent tried the 9v test yet because stores dont open til 12 here on sundays and I cant find one in the house</TD></TR></TABLE> Any batt. will work. [AAA, AA, C or 9V] with the AAA, AA, or C there is only 1.5V so it has to be a good, [full charged] batt., and the "pop" will be a lot quieter.

BTW what kind of box(s) are the subs in, and if one box is it one chamber or two? 94

 

The headunit is a rocford fosgate rfx 9120

I tried "y"ing the preouts for the sum out cable and I dont think that worked
I really dont get how you want me to hook it up though

I hooked it back up to the front and rear outputs and it got noticeably louder, sounds like a descent house system now, but I dont think its close what it should be pouding like, cant hear it outside the car and it doesnt shake the **** out of anything yet

Its a single chamber long box that is only 13" and 8" deep with 2 rectangle ports in the middle

I supposed the settings on the amp could be screwy but i dont know much about setting those up

Thanks for much FCM, doubt I coult do it without ya