Does anyone know what this password is or where I can find it for this kit:

http://www.ground-control-stor...I=681

Or is it cheaper to get something else that is better?

Thanks


Modified by ecl-ricochet at 5:23 PM 9/7/2006

 

looks expensive to me

 

Well there is some password to drop the price $200. The password is supposed to be on this site. Does anyone know what it is?

 

look through the other suspension forum under the sponsor section. Most sponsors will list any discount codes in their posts.

 

Unfortunatly I didn't see anything under there.

 

I looked around a little bit too. I couldn't find anything either.

 

Damn well thanks for trying.

 

I think itis just honda-tech

 

Hey guys I just decided to try calling Ground Control and the password is "gcisog." No matter how stupid that sounds that is it in case anyone else is interested.

 

sweet

 

If you order the coil overs, top hats from Ground Control and then the Koni's from the sponsor section its cheaper. Is the kit from Ground control different or special to justifiy the $1026.81 shipped price? Bought seperate it $981.26, so whats the savings or good deal?




Modified by spoonfed95 at 10:29 PM 9/19/2006

 

hey weaksauce.org has the full koni ground control top hat deal for 975$ shipped

 

http://weaksauceparts.com/store/home.php?cat=1172

weaksauce should sponsor me for sellin them products!

 

Yeah, and you need a code from Ground control to drop it from $1200-makes no sense to me?

 

Simple - They charge $200 more so that they can drop the price $200 fooling people into thinking there getting a good deal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sumslapper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey weaksauce.org has the full koni ground control top hat deal for 975$ shipped</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes they do. but. the groundcontol website is for 4 tophats, not just two front ones. tack on another $120/pair for the rear top hats on the weaksos package, and then compare it to the groundcontrol pacakage.

 

With that, maybe its so bad. But its still no great deal.

 

Now offer it for $900 and I'll whip out my Visa.

 

Nice catch on the 4 top hats vs. 2! And to think I was about to buy it through Weaksos!

Definately a better deal through the GC link.

 

Actually I kind of decided I am going to get the Koni Yellow Race shocks through another site. I won't need the top hats with those shocks, and I can do a higher spring rate. Since I DD this car I think I am going to end up breaking my ***. Oh well.

 

None of those sound like a deal to me. If you were really budget minded, you would only buy 1 pair of top hats. The fronts of your civics & integras are the only area that needs extra travel when lowering. If you really want to be a cheapskate, you don't even need to buy ANY top hats. There is a "shock-fork" mod for the front end that gives you any amount of added travel you want (for free).

Total cost now.... $500 for koni's + $300 for GC coil-overs = $800...

Who's ready to buy now.

PS: Here is CRX lee's how too on mounting your koni's lower in the fork...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes, they are a twin tube so a new dent won't screw things up but I have never made a dent and certainly would never file on the shock body. Once I tried whacking a new dent in the body but found I was more likely to just oval out the bottom of the shocks before a real dent got in it.

You guys are making it much harder than it need to be, I have been doing it for years. Leave the brake line bracket off and install the shock, spring and wishbone just like normal with the top and bottom mount bolts and nuts. Using the dent to align and start the pinch bolt, start the pinch bolt by only two or three threads so it is solidly started but definately not being tightened. Now take a large straight blade screw driver tip or a chisel punch around to the split on the back side of the wishbone and use it as a wedge and hammer the end it to further spread the split and make it looser around the shock bottom. Now put a floor jack under the LCA (the car is up on jack stands BTW) and lift the LCA upward loading against the spring and the car. The mouth of the wishbone will slide right up higher on the shock body and the pinch bolt slips up out of the dent. It only uses the dent as a guidepath so the bolt threads properly across the gap. You may need to fiddle with the wedge a bit or knock the top of the wishbone lightly with a hammer but it will normally move pretty easily. Once it stops moving, note how much shock bottom sticks through the bottom of the wishbone and make the other side match. Any amount of extra travel you get at the shock means 1.5 times that amount of free travel at the wheel. The key is that you must first use the dent to start the pinch bolt into the threading, if you don't then the arc of the shock body will deflect the tip of the pinchbolt on a tangent and you risk cross threading the wishbone like Tyson did (and I did until I figured it out).

Couldn't be easier, no new dents, no grinding or filing, just free stroke but remember that you must raise your spring perch accordingly or otherwise the car will just be lower with no extra stroke.

BTW, I just use one zip tie normally to hold the braided brake line (older Earls normally) and have had no evidence or concern of it moving or wearing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> There is a "shock-fork" mod for the front end that gives you any amount of added travel you want (for free).</TD></TR></TABLE>

This just doesn't look safe. I would rather buy a Excellent part from an Excellent company then modify and rig my car like that.

 

It is going to cost me but I like the idea of going with the Koni Race shocks because I can also up my spring rates some more with them. And I wont need the top hats either.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonfed95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This just doesn't look safe. I would rather buy a Excellent part from an Excellent company then modify and rig my car like that.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

youre free to your inexperienced opinion, but that method is quoted by a koni america representative, crx lee.

its fine. and its free. and its the right thing to do.

you can do the same thing with other shocks too, just not as easily as the brake collar is usually welded. just cut the welds.

 

Thats cool, I just don't like it.