Reccomended Amount of Boost for Reliability?
Im just curious here, In a month Im going turbo. I want to know, which amount of psi I should run. It will be completely professional tuned and dynoed. My current setup will be:
Year: 1996/1992
Make: Honda
Model: Prelude
Trim: VTEC
Bodystyle: Coupe (2Door)
Color: Black
Int. Color: Black
Mileage: 40k motor, 197k chassis
Engine: 2.2L DOHC VTEC (H22a)
Transmission: 5 Speed Manual
Modifications:
Exterior:
JDM Amber Turn Signals
5% Tint
Interior:
JDM Gauge Cluster
Skunk 2 Shifter ****
In-Car Electronics:
Greddy 52mm White Face Boost Gauge
Apexi AVC-R Boost Controller
Pioneer Head Unit
Greddy Black Turbo Timer
Chipped P28 W/ Datalogging
AEM Wideband A/F Gauge
Wheels/Tires:
Stock SI Blades
Suspension:
Skunk 2 Springs (2.5" Drop)
Aluminum Strut Bar
Lower Rear Tie Bar
Rear Strut Bar
Brakes:
Stock
Engine: (Here's the fun part!)
Skunk2 Racing Intake Manifold
South Beach Racing Replica Turbo Manifold
DSM 450CC Injectors
ST1 Stage IV .84 A/R .68T Turbo
Greddy Front Mount Intercooler
TiAl 40mm Wastegate
TiAl 50mm Blow Off Valve
Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
AEM Fuel Rail
Custom Intercooler Pipe
Transmission:
ACT StreetLite Flywheel
ACT F1 Racing 6 Puck Clutch
Forebidden Short Shifter
Im wanting to know which amont of psi to tell the Tuner to set me for so I can get the MOSSSTTT reliability and LEEASSTT chance of blowing up. 3-4 psi comes to my mind. Thoughts?
Modified by TylerC161 at 10:36 AM 9/7/2006
Year: 1996/1992
Make: Honda
Model: Prelude
Trim: VTEC
Bodystyle: Coupe (2Door)
Color: Black
Int. Color: Black
Mileage: 40k motor, 197k chassis
Engine: 2.2L DOHC VTEC (H22a)
Transmission: 5 Speed Manual
Modifications:
Exterior:
JDM Amber Turn Signals
5% Tint
Interior:
JDM Gauge Cluster
Skunk 2 Shifter ****
In-Car Electronics:
Greddy 52mm White Face Boost Gauge
Apexi AVC-R Boost Controller
Pioneer Head Unit
Greddy Black Turbo Timer
Chipped P28 W/ Datalogging
AEM Wideband A/F Gauge
Wheels/Tires:
Stock SI Blades
Suspension:
Skunk 2 Springs (2.5" Drop)
Aluminum Strut Bar
Lower Rear Tie Bar
Rear Strut Bar
Brakes:
Stock
Engine: (Here's the fun part!)
Skunk2 Racing Intake Manifold
South Beach Racing Replica Turbo Manifold
DSM 450CC Injectors
ST1 Stage IV .84 A/R .68T Turbo
Greddy Front Mount Intercooler
TiAl 40mm Wastegate
TiAl 50mm Blow Off Valve
Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
AEM Fuel Rail
Custom Intercooler Pipe
Transmission:
ACT StreetLite Flywheel
ACT F1 Racing 6 Puck Clutch
Forebidden Short Shifter
Im wanting to know which amont of psi to tell the Tuner to set me for so I can get the MOSSSTTT reliability and LEEASSTT chance of blowing up. 3-4 psi comes to my mind. Thoughts?
Modified by TylerC161 at 10:36 AM 9/7/2006
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TylerC161 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Engine: 2.4L DOHC VTEC (H22a) </TD></TR></TABLE>
How do you have 2.4 liters?
I wouldn't go over 5-6 psi on a good tune if you want to be totally safe.
Engine: 2.4L DOHC VTEC (H22a) </TD></TR></TABLE>
How do you have 2.4 liters?
I wouldn't go over 5-6 psi on a good tune if you want to be totally safe.
oops. thats a typo. 2.2l. completely stock.
So, you guys think 5psi is safe? I just spent 4.5k on all this ****, and I really dont wanna spend 3k on a new motor if i blow this one up. lol. I take that back, i dont HAVE 3k to spend.
So, you guys think 5psi is safe? I just spent 4.5k on all this ****, and I really dont wanna spend 3k on a new motor if i blow this one up. lol. I take that back, i dont HAVE 3k to spend.
i've heard the magic number is up to 8psi stock block, but ppl have pushed things even further on stock h22's, in my own opinion i think if you can keep charge temps down with good intercooling and choosing the correct turbo for the power you want (not psi) then with a smart tuner you can successfully boost a stock H22 and keep it reliable, just dont start thinking your going to start pushing 500whp with a stock block. oh yeah, and because i got told this all the time.....SEARCH!!!
its not about psi. its about the amount of power you output at X amount of boost. Your turbo setup determines your amount of power at X amount of boost. Some make 400whp at 10psi, others make 300whp at 10psi. The only difference is the setup.
This is why you get on a dyno and let the tuner do his thing (depending on their credibility that is). I've never heard of the turbo you are going to run before but theoretically it could take more than 8psi to reach that threshold of conservation.
This is why you get on a dyno and let the tuner do his thing (depending on their credibility that is). I've never heard of the turbo you are going to run before but theoretically it could take more than 8psi to reach that threshold of conservation.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TylerC161 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so, with that setup, what do ya'll think I should be hitting HP wise?
The turbo is SS autochrome</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm not a dyno. Go to the dyno and find out.
btw, that turbo has a horrible reputation of cracking and leaking all the expensive boost you paid for......should have done your homework.
The turbo is SS autochrome</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm not a dyno. Go to the dyno and find out.
btw, that turbo has a horrible reputation of cracking and leaking all the expensive boost you paid for......should have done your homework.
cheap boost ftw 
my friend had an ss autocrap manifold and it cracked and the braces fell out at like 80mph, sounded like hell....then leaked boost all over the place, and then repeat that 2x.....
edit: was that complete list of everything in your car including the stale fries under the seat for fun or what?? with 5% tint you will make 56 more hp than if you had 10% dood....trust me, i have a last name but i can't pronounce it....they just call me carlos

my friend had an ss autocrap manifold and it cracked and the braces fell out at like 80mph, sounded like hell....then leaked boost all over the place, and then repeat that 2x.....
edit: was that complete list of everything in your car including the stale fries under the seat for fun or what?? with 5% tint you will make 56 more hp than if you had 10% dood....trust me, i have a last name but i can't pronounce it....they just call me carlos
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">trust me, i have a last name but i can't pronounce it....they just call me carlos</TD></TR></TABLE>
Pretty sure they called him Hector...But Carlos sounds like it would word too!
"I've seen how you drive Brain, You've got a heavy foot...."
Pretty sure they called him Hector...But Carlos sounds like it would word too!
"I've seen how you drive Brain, You've got a heavy foot...."
All making fun of me aside, yes, that was a complete list. Its found on my cardomain. I just copied it and pasted.
Yes, I know the turbo isint the best. I found this out shortly after I bought it. Hopefully mine will be okay since its such a small amount of boost. Its the only thing thats really "cheap" on my car. Hell, my avc-r cost more then the turbo. $500 *-*
Yes, I know the turbo isint the best. I found this out shortly after I bought it. Hopefully mine will be okay since its such a small amount of boost. Its the only thing thats really "cheap" on my car. Hell, my avc-r cost more then the turbo. $500 *-*
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From: What Business is it of yours where Im from Friendo
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its not about psi. its about the amount of power you output at X amount of boost. Your turbo setup determines your amount of power at X amount of boost. Some make 400whp at 10psi, others make 300whp at 10psi. The only difference is the setup.
This is why you get on a dyno and let the tuner do his thing (depending on their credibility that is). I've never heard of the turbo you are going to run before but theoretically it could take more than 8psi to reach that threshold of conservation.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you Blake
....I can't stress this enough man.
This is why you get on a dyno and let the tuner do his thing (depending on their credibility that is). I've never heard of the turbo you are going to run before but theoretically it could take more than 8psi to reach that threshold of conservation.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you Blake
....I can't stress this enough man.
Yea, this tuner im talking about is VERY respected here in the KC area. He's owned his shop for a long time, and tuned many cars around here that are VERY quick.
I think I'll shoot for 5psi
I think I'll shoot for 5psi
You have an AVC-R and are now going to get it "professionally dynoed and tuned"... ? Why... sell that b*tch and get a Garrett hybrid.
I'm assuming you already have a chipped ECU and Crome ready to go.
I'm assuming you already have a chipped ECU and Crome ready to go.
Blingy boost controllers and ebay turbos?
Oh well...
The problems with FI and reliablity are probably exagerrated if the whole thing is tuned to a tee...but turboing while not having the money for a new engine in the event of something stupid happening is probably not the best idea.
Oh well...
The problems with FI and reliablity are probably exagerrated if the whole thing is tuned to a tee...but turboing while not having the money for a new engine in the event of something stupid happening is probably not the best idea.
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