what sway bar should i use for a 91 hatch.
i what one that mounts like this or can a 92-95 civic one fit or a 94up integra fit





Modified by dkrex001 at 6:46 PM 9/6/2006

 

if you want one that mounts like that, get the progress 22mm bar. they also offer a 24mm adjustable bar (they call it competition) that mounts that way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dkrex001 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what sway bar should i use for a 91 hatch.
i what one that mounts like this or can a 92-95 civic one fit or a 94up integra fit





Modified by dkrex001 at 6:46 PM 9/6/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>

i never understood that swaybar. looks like its just asking for major bindage.

EF's are designed to have the rear swaybar off the subframe. its a better design quite frankly. if you dont have an Si, then i suggest you get a suspension techniques rear swaybar. itll come with all the adaptor brackets to mount on your car that didnt originally have the rear sway bar mounting.

 

Yah after seeing tons of rear subframe tearouts on EK/EG/DC , the EF style sway bar seems to be a better design.

 

the suspension techniques is what i am going with. you can get the front and rear in a package for the same price almost as 1 of the more expensive brands

 

in this price range, and for a 22mm bar or equivalent, i think that the s-t, the progress, and the tanabe hollow 19mm cromoly bar are all good choices.

i can say that i've run both the s-t and the progress for a LONG time on a lot of different setups without any issues. i think the tanabe looks great, considering the weight/stiffness ratio.

as far as bar design and the resulting actual bar rate (different designs, same diameter bar in the progress and s-t), it seems that the progress, with it's shorter arms, would be a higher rate, though i don't have any tesing to back that up.

 

i wouldnt buy an aftermarket front swaybar. its not the right direction of tuning youd want to go, and there are cheaper options like a stock sedan bar or DA front bar which is slightly stiffer and not overly stiff.

just a rear 22mm bar is all you need.

and the best would be my mugen 22mm rear bar

 

yea, but if it comes in the kit with the rear anyways for the same price as a more expensive one.. why not use it

 

because it makes the car handle worse.

i dont know about you, but i dont slap on parts just because.

 

how do it make the car handle worse? i ask because i am going to be getting said uprade.. would like your opinion.

 

increasing front wheel rate makes for more understeer.

swaybars itself will reduce the "independentness" of the suspension anyway. a 22mm up front is behemoth. absoulutely unnecessary.

most competitive racers actually remove or use the HF front swaybar to reduce the role of the front swaybar.

 

how would the front sway bars with omni coilovers and energy suspension front bushings make u feel.. that was the planned setup. along with password jdm 3 point front upper strut bar, and the required camber/caster kits. megan racing rear LCA, front and rear upper and lower tie bars where required..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsxr1k05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do it make the car handle worse? i ask because i am going to be getting said uprade.. would like your opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it's not an upgrade... it'll just make you push more.

listen to tyson. if you do anything up front, buy an hf bar. otherwise leave it stock.

 

ok, minus the sway bar issue. any thoughts on the set-up in mind.. (not trying to thread jack.. but who knows.. OP might find this usufull)

 

speaking of listening to me. dont consider omnipowers if you want performance.

and im not a fan of poly bushings either.

camber caster kits are not required either.

aftermarket rear LCA are junk (except function7 )

a neuspeed front strut bar will do just fine.

honestly dude, you sound like you just want to spend money on your car, thinking youre adding performance or something. like the more mods, the better your car will be.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsxr1k05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how would the front sway bars with omni coilovers and energy suspension front bushings make u feel.. that was the planned setup. along with password jdm 3 point front upper strut bar, and the required camber/caster kits. megan racing rear LCA, front and rear upper and lower tie bars where required.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

it would make me feel bouncy, undersprung, underdamped, wondering why my ride height was still fubared, frustrated that my car still pushed after spending the 13.75 that all that crap you listed costs, missing the lovely camber that they just charged me to get rid of, and wondering what the hell they tried to sell me to change caster.

 

I have a ST rear sway bar and a DA front sway bar with ES endlinks. I love the way the car handles, it's very neutral, I think a larger bar up front would definately increase understeer.

When I was looking into which sway bars to buy, I was told to get a DA front and ST rear... I took the advice I was given and absolutely love the setup.

 

ive actually got the sedan 19mm front swaybar installed with 22mm rear mugen bar. stock Si/DX front bar is 18mm. so it is bigger. the reason i went a tad bigger in the front is because im using stock springs (with tokico illuminas). i found that because the stock springs are relatively weak, it could use the extra roll stiffness up front. so yeah, i find that it balances well on the street.

i did try the 23mm (hollow) DA front bar to compare to the 19mm, i found its pretty much effectively the same.