Being a turbo honda guy for awhile now, I've learn quite a bit about tuning and our different systems.

When I picked up my new gixxer and went to check out the forums, apparently the only thing people knew about tuning was a power commander, which is, from what I understand a glorified afc hack. Some also raved about the famous TRE...timing retard eliminator. Because apparently suzuki retards the timing in the first four gears.

So people tend to take it upon themselves to eliminate this timing retard having no clue whatsoever timing does to a motor.

I just wanted some more answers about tuning other then "huh? just use a power commander"

As childish as honda-tech may be, there are wayyyyy more knowledgable people on here then there is on any of the bike forums.

What are my tuning options on a 06 gsxr 600?????? the big question...somebody who knows something about tuning please answer that.

 

Tuning on a turbo honda can gain you gobs of power. On a 600cc NA bike you'll be lucky to gain a few ponies, and its not even worth it on a stock bike.

You'll notice a lot more by doing a gear change.

 

^i just want to know for future, I bought the 600 on recommendations for getting a smaller bike to start with. Soon I will be wanting more power and plan to mod it to death. I love turbos, and am also considering that.

 

wide band baby... Chrome

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaZman69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^i just want to know for future, I bought the 600 on recommendations for getting a smaller bike to start with. Soon I will be wanting more power and plan to mod it to death. I love turbos, and am also considering that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why do you need more power?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MSchu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wide band baby... Chrome</TD></TR></TABLE>
huh? u cant use CROME on a gixxer<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why do you need more power?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I want more power because I want my bike to be faster then it is now. Hows that?

spare me the lecture, just answer the question

 

if you want to put a turbo on a 600 you might as well get a 1000. Turbos on bikes make me throw up in my mouth. Putting a turbo on a 600 is like putting 3 wheels on an RC51. It only happens because somebody wanted to say "yea, i did that." Otherwise it's pointless.

What's wrong with powercommanders? They're a whole heck of alot better than AFCs. My S-AFC had 8 tuning points. I'm not even going to count the tuning points for the PC. I can tell you that my PCIIIUSB has 150rpm increments. My PCII in my RC has a fuel table and an ignition table with the same tuning points. You can get PCIIIRs that have ignition tuning as well. Although the PCs function in the same way that piggybacks do for cars, their quality is much better than you average AFC.
In case you haven't been told, if you just do a slip-on you don't really need to powercommander your bike. If you start doing more than that (excluding gear changes) then you'll want to get a power commander, and you'll be fine with the supplied maps from powercommander.
I would say tuning on street bikes isn't focused on as much as it is in the car community. I remember every time i would answer a performance post on team-integra it was "tune tune tune," but with motorcycles, they all have enough power, so it isn't really about squeezing every ounce out of them, it's more about actually learning how to ride one and being safe.

As for the TREs on suzukis, from what i understand about the SV650's TRE when you bypass it you're not advancing the timing any further than it would be in 5th or 6th gear. The timing is retarded in the first 4 gears because of "traction issues" according to suzuki. The TRE mods simply trick the computer in to thinking that it's in 5th or 6th gear. I don't see it as detrimental.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaZman69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
huh? u cant use CROME on a gixxer

I want more power because I want my bike to be faster then it is now. Hows that?

spare me the lecture, just answer the question</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't be a dick dude, hes probably just asking to help you further with information.

I got about 6 ft-lb or tq and 10hp out of my powercommander with dynojet software. With something like the PC you can optimize fuel and ignition mapping. You can get a custom map too for special aplications just like with our hondas...

As far as any other tuning, its pretty low key. Sprocket's, exhaust, suspension. Nothing really motor wise.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaZman69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I want more power because I want my bike to be faster then it is now. Hows that?

spare me the lecture, just answer the question</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why does it need to be faster than 10 seconds in the 1/4? Guess what? Most bikes that are making alot more horsepower than you are still running 10s as well.
But, i'm assuming you want the neck snapping feeling of more acceleration. If that's the case, just do -1/+2 on your sprockets and call it a day.

also, 600s are not "starter bikes" by any means. You made the right choice by going "smaller" for you first bike, but the 600 is nothing to laugh at.
If i ever got another inline, it'd be a 600.

 

Stock bike its kind of a waste of money to buy and install a fuel management system. If you start adding some mods then you can get some extra power but more importantly smooth out your powerband. Since you have a gsxr you can also get the Yoshimura EMS instead of a Power Commander.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slvrblckrdRC51 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you want to put a turbo on a 600 you might as well get a 1000. Turbos on bikes make me throw up in my mouth. Putting a turbo on a 600 is like putting 3 wheels on an RC51. It only happens because somebody wanted to say "yea, i did that." Otherwise it's pointless.

What's wrong with powercommanders? They're a whole heck of alot better than AFCs. My S-AFC had 8 tuning points. I'm not even going to count the tuning points for the PC. I can tell you that my PCIIIUSB has 150rpm increments. My PCII in my RC has a fuel table and an ignition table with the same tuning points. You can get PCIIIRs that have ignition tuning as well. Although the PCs function in the same way that piggybacks do for cars, their quality is much better than you average AFC.
In case you haven't been told, if you just do a slip-on you don't really need to powercommander your bike. If you start doing more than that (excluding gear changes) then you'll want to get a power commander, and you'll be fine with the supplied maps from powercommander.
I would say tuning on street bikes isn't focused on as much as it is in the car community. I remember every time i would answer a performance post on team-integra it was "tune tune tune," but with motorcycles, they all have enough power, so it isn't really about squeezing every ounce out of them, it's more about actually learning how to ride one and being safe.

As for the TREs on suzukis, from what i understand about the SV650's TRE when you bypass it you're not advancing the timing any further than it would be in 5th or 6th gear. The timing is retarded in the first 4 gears because of "traction issues" according to suzuki. The TRE mods simply trick the computer in to thinking that it's in 5th or 6th gear. I don't see it as detrimental.</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly what I was looking for

yeah turbo was just an idea. I just love them so much lol. I know it would be much easier to buy a 1000. I love riding so much, that I do plan on racing it in the future. I know that my bike heavily modded would probably be the ultimate track toy.

I didnt know the pc's could tune ignition too, nobody seems to know that lol. Although i've heard numerous rumors of why suzuki retarded the timing, I kind of find it fishy that they would do it for traction. It better be raining to lose traction above second gear in a 600.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by it’s si-vtec foo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Don't be a dick dude, hes probably just asking to help you further with information.

I got about 6 ft-lb or tq and 10hp out of my powercommander with dynojet software. With something like the PC you can optimize fuel and ignition mapping. You can get a custom map too for special aplications just like with our hondas...

As far as any other tuning, its pretty low key. Sprocket's, exhaust, suspension. Nothing really motor wise. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I got a 90% chance he was about to lecture me on why I don't need more power. If he wasnt I apologize.

I don't plan on changing sprockets, the gears are plenty close together as it is. I will spend the most on suspension. But power comes first.

I also really really want some carbon fiber wheels. And not for looks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slvrblckrdRC51 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why does it need to be faster than 10 seconds in the 1/4? Guess what? Most bikes that are making alot more horsepower than you are still running 10s as well.
But, i'm assuming you want the neck snapping feeling of more acceleration. If that's the case, just do -1/+2 on your sprockets and call it a day.

also, 600s are not "starter bikes" by any means. You made the right choice by going "smaller" for you first bike, but the 600 is nothing to laugh at.
If i ever got another inline, it'd be a 600.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I could care less how it performs at the strip, I just care about how far my face peeled back. It's fast enough for me now. I feel very confident with it now and it doesnt excite me as much. although I'm a very quick learner, I know seat time is important no matter what. I do plan on waiting atleast a few thousand more miles before I start adding mods.

Although I must admit, at the rate im going, my seat time for a few thousand miles will not be very long.

 

Considering the huge change sprockets will give you and the relatively low cost and labor involved, why arent you weighing them as an option? They are far from permanent and on a 600 help a lot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Considering the huge change sprockets will give you and the relatively low cost and labor involved, why arent you weighing them as an option? They are far from permanent and on a 600 help a lot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lower sprockets will help me wheelie easier, I don't see them helping me much at the track. It just means the gears will be closer together and I will have to shift more. Plus I think the bike is geared to perfection. You can WOT 1st gear the whole way and if you lean foward it will just be at the tinkering point of coming up and staying down.

The fastest you can go without your front end up is the fastest your bike can accelerate, and right now, 1st gear is perfect.

 

Sounds fun man, but don't get too cocky thats when you make mistakes as a new rider. A racer once told me that I will never ride my 600 to its full potential, espically on the street and probably never on the track. I think I will ride a 600 for a long time, maybe 1000 for fun. I did -1/+2 and it breaks necks and lifts in most gears. Mind you Im 6'0 240 and chubby. First things first, grab an exhaust and annoy your neighbours hah.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by it’s si-vtec foo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds fun man, but don't get too cocky thats when you make mistakes as a new rider. A racer once told me that I will never ride my 600 to its full potential, espically on the street and probably never on the track. I think I will ride a 600 for a long time, maybe 1000 for fun. I did -1/+2 and it breaks necks and lifts in most gears. Mind you Im 6'0 240 and chubby. First things first, grab an exhaust and annoy your neighbours hah. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah I gotta watch the confidence, I know what it does to you in fast cars, let alone a bike.

Your 240lbs and your -1/+2 cause u to lift in most of the gears? not on a 600...

I'm 200lbs and first gear is the only gear I can power up in my 600.

lol I will not get a louder pipe, most of my neighbors have some money, I realize perfectly well they didnt spend a million on their houses to be annoyed by some motorcycle everyday.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaZman69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah I gotta watch the confidence, I know what it does to you in fast cars, let alone a bike.

Your 240lbs and your -1/+2 cause u to lift in most of the gears? not on a 600...

I'm 200lbs and first gear is the only gear I can power up in my 600.

lol I will not get a louder pipe, most of my neighbors have some money, I realize perfectly well they didnt spend a million on their houses to be annoyed by some motorcycle everyday.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes sir, it gets up in first and second. Mind you I have most bolt on's. Third you have to bounce a little, but its not shy lifting.

 

i disagree about the gearing. If i were you i'd play around with changing the sprockets, if not just slightly at first. I rode my friend's RR before and after his -1 front sprocket change. It was quick before, but become just slightly more snappy with the -1. Sprockets are so cheap it's worth it to expirement. My friend just did +1 in the rear on his SV650 and we noticed a huge difference without having to "shift more."
Check out this RC51 gearing calculator from rc51.org
http://www.rc51.org/host/rc51_gearing_jamata.xls
When it opens click the tab along the bottom of the window that says "gearing" or "calculator" or something. It's the furthest left tab.

Once in there, replace the transmission ratios with that of whatever your bike is. Sometimes the manuals have that information, other times it's on the internet.
This spreadsheet is great. We were able to figure out the sprocket change my friend wanted and he ended up doing -1/+2 on his Aprilia Mille.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slvrblckrdRC51 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i disagree about the gearing. If i were you i'd play around with changing the sprockets, if not just slightly at first. I rode my friend's RR before and after his -1 front sprocket change. It was quick before, but become just slightly more snappy with the -1. Sprockets are so cheap it's worth it to expirement. My friend just did +1 in the rear on his SV650 and we noticed a huge difference without having to "shift more."
Check out this RC51 gearing calculator from rc51.org
http://www.rc51.org/host/rc51_gearing_jamata.xls
When it opens click the tab along the bottom of the window that says "gearing" or "calculator" or something. It's the furthest left tab.

Once in there, replace the transmission ratios with that of whatever your bike is. Sometimes the manuals have that information, other times it's on the internet.
This spreadsheet is great. We were able to figure out the sprocket change my friend wanted and he ended up doing -1/+2 on his Aprilia Mille.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll check it out, i doubt ill keep it though, i do a lot of cruising too (i know definatly the wrong bike for that) and I would prefer to keep the rpms low as possible on the highway.

 

When you say racetrack do you mean 1/4 mile or road courses?

I ride a stock 600 engine wise and the last thing I want is more power.

 

I changed the front sproket on my gixxer -1. The gains were very noticable and the bike is more snappy and going into turns sometimes I dont have to downshift as much because I have the power out of the corners. So it acutally has made me shifting less on corners. Highway it just revs maybe 500 more rpms cruising, but its not going to hurt your motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RebornGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you say racetrack do you mean 1/4 mile or road courses?

I ride a stock 600 engine wise and the last thing I want is more power.</TD></TR></TABLE>

could care less about my quater times. woulda bought a busa

You can't tell me more power is not going to give you quicker lap times. You probably have way more bike racing experience then me, as I have none. So I have no right to tell you your wrong. But there is no way that a gsxr-600 is gonna have anything but faster lap times with more power.

I'm not too concerned with the power aspect as I'm making it seem. All i care about is lap times. I know most of my money is going to the suspension. I do want about 20-30 more hp though through mods. I was considering cams and upping the compression.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaZman69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

could care less about my quater times. woulda bought a busa

You can't tell me more power is not going to give you quicker lap times. You probably have way more bike racing experience then me, as I have none. So I have no right to tell you your wrong. But there is no way that a gsxr-600 is gonna have anything but faster lap times with more power.

I'm not too concerned with the power aspect as I'm making it seem. All i care about is lap times. I know most of my money is going to the suspension. I do want about 20-30 more hp though through mods. I was considering cams and upping the compression. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Depending on how far south you are in NJ I am telling you that more power will slow you down as a novice track rider. Most of the tracks that you will go too will be slower technical tracks where precision and corner speed are far more important then power. If you decide to start racing you will probably end up racing loudon in NH and at that track more power is the last thing I need. I was spinning my rear in 2 corners this weekend on a 600 with stock gearing and motor because I was making mistakes on the bike. I am faster then 750's and 1000's all weekend because I can consistently get on the power harder and sooner pulling better drives down the short straights.

Here is your list of what IMO should be done:

-Buy some track plastics and a new fairing bracket. Put them on the bike.
-Frame sliders
-LHS case guard
-Safety wire drain plug, filter and oil fill cap
TRACKDAY

After a few trackdays you will decide to either keep your bike and turn it into a track/street bike or sell it and buy one that is already prepped.

If you decide to keep it then it's time for:

-Rear shock
-Forks redone

At this point the bike is no longer the problem, you are the only thing that needs improvement and any more money spent on the bike looking for performance is a waste IMO. Unless you are a front running expert power usually isn't where the problem is.

 

yay for Reborn!

Subscricing 'cause there's actually some useful information in one of these threads for once.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MSchu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wide band baby... Chrome</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaZman69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">huh? u cant use CROME on a gixxer</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just noticed this... are you correcting his correct spelling with the wrong one?