Ok so i finished up my swap and now the car won't start. Its an 89 std civic with an obd1 b18a swap. Converted from DPFI-MPFI and then OBD0-OBD1. The car starts when i spray some ether into the IM but dies after a few seconds when the ether burns off....Any help or suggestions would be great. Thanks

By the way, I put fresh gas in. Timing is good, Pump is fine, and ive got spark, fuel pressure, and fuel at the injectors.


Modified by HondaFerris at 12:07 AM 9/4/2006

 

please bump my thread if you read this. i need to get this car running for school this week...

 

 

Check to see if your getting voltage at the injectors maybe your resistor box is not getting powered up

 

Prime your fuel pump like 10 times then crank it and see if you got any fuel on your spark plugs.

 

I think you mean ether

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4thgenhtch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check to see if your getting voltage at the injectors maybe your resistor box is not getting powered up </TD></TR></TABLE> I converted to obd1 so there is no resister box.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Prime your fuel pump like 10 times then crank it and see if you got any fuel on your spark plugs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what will this tell me? what if i have fuel on the plugs? what if i dont?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaFerris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what will this tell me? what if i have fuel on the plugs? what if i dont? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Makes sure the fuel is getting into the cylinder. Then pull a plug and put it to a ground and make sure the plugs are sparking. If yes to both and it still wont crank you've got a timing issue. Check your cam gear and make sure the marks all line up. The only other thing is compression but if you just did a dpfi/mpfi and didnt touch anything else and it ran fine before....

Also double check your a1 a3 a5 a7 ecu pins and make sure theyre going to the correct injectors so theyre firing in the right order.

 

I already checked for spark and its fine. Checked the timing and its right on. I've checked all the wiring over and over again and its all right....I guess i'll keep priming the pump and check if the plugs are wet...

 

up before bed

 

hope you find the problem

 

Main Fuel Relay probably

 

Well since you removed the resistor box do you have 12 volts to each injector?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4thgenhtch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well since you removed the resistor box do you have 12 volts to each injector?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes sir

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow_rex_will &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Main Fuel Relay probably</TD></TR></TABLE>
Where is that and how do i know if its not working properly?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaFerris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Where is that and how do i know if its not working properly?</TD></TR></TABLE>

To be honest i dont, but i can tell that the same exact thing happened to me, i changed the main fuel relay and it started with no problems.

 

its located in the Main Relay as far as i know

 

ok i primed the fuel pump a whole bunch of times and then checked the spark plugs and they were dry (no fuel on them). now what?!?!

 

so what does this mean....that the injectors are not squirting fuel into the cylanders?

 

if you crank the engine for 15 seconds, and there is no fuel smell on the spark plugs, your injectors are not firing. The best way to tell would be a noid light or a current probe and an oscilloscope. A noid light plugs into the back of the injector connector and flashes whenever the injector pulses. I think they run for about $30-$70 a piece. Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't removing the resistor box (part of the OBD1 changeover) warrant an injector changeover from the low resistance peak-and-hold injectors to a higher resistance type? If that's the case, then the low resistance injectors are flowing too much current through the transistor(s) in the PCM, and causing the transistors to shut off completely, resulting in no fuel delivery. If enough resistance is in the circuit (i.e. resistor box, higher resistance injectors), then the injectors should be pulsing, unless there is a bad connection.

Is the engine stumbling during cranking, like it wants to start, or is it just cranking? If it's just cranking, try unplugging an injector. If it starts stumbling, then you've lowered the current flow through the transistor, turning it back on, causing the injector(s) to pulse. If unplugging, one, two, or three injectors cause the engine to start, or want to start, then new injectors are in order.


Modified by babyhoohey at 11:15 AM 9/4/2006

 

one of those "noid" lights would be nice about now....but to answer your question, the car just cranks, doesnt try to start unless i spray ether into the IM...I'm using obd1 injectors and clips, which do not require an injector resistor box.

 

im pretty sure its the main realy

 

did u swap out the injectors for non resistor injectors?

 

take ur fuel rail off and aim ur injectors up if no fuel fires or they fire in a odd order something is wrong...

i had a simliar problem when i did my swap, i realized by doing this that they were wired up incorrectly and just had to redo a few things and it started right up!

mine were just firing in the wrong order if they don't fire at all it can be a number of things i hope they atleast fire for you