As the title says pretty much, just wondered what uprated gear your running and where you got it from

Also interested to hear high HP applications running stock pump gear with no problems

 

Bump from the UK

 

peterson

 

Cheers Do you have a link to where you bought it from?

 

I think I found it http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/

Do they do one specifically for the h22 or do you have to measure the gear and tell them the spec?

 

im sorry if im miss led ya the peterson unit is not a gear it is a external oil pump system wet or dry sump the system is about 1300 with everything wet sump setup as far as gears oem,oem cryotreated, or circut worx to be honest i have had no luck with eitheir i would stick with oem if ya serious go with a external setup .......my setup made good power all day long on dynos but once i put a slick on the and dry launch the car the gear gets pounded

 

Thanks for the feedback whats the worst that can happen if you oil pump goes on a high speed run?

Cheers

 

I run OEM pumps on all of my builds.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djnikko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the feedback whats the worst that can happen if you oil pump goes on a high speed run?

Cheers </TD></TR></TABLE>

if you lose oil pressure at any rpm, esp high, youre gonna ruin lots of stuff quickly, starting with rod and main bearings, then moving up to the cylinder walls and cam journals, then the rocker arms, you really really dont want that to happen

 

So is an uprated gear recommended? Im running the stock crank pulley not a UR lightened pulley which most oil pump failures seem to be linked too.

However I do see alot of people making good power on the OEM pump gear, maybe they have the gear treated/coated in some way.

 

the main reason that oil pumps fail is that the rotating assembly isn't balanced well. It doesn't matter if you use an OEM gear or some high dollar gear.......if you're not in balance, it's gonna break eventually, or see extreme wear.

I'd recommend saving your money and using the OEM pump gears unless you have the money to run a dry sump. Whatever you do, the rotating assembly needs to be well balanced.

Oh yea, leave your crank pulley (harmonic balancer) stock as well, as it serves a purpose in helping to keep the crank balanced.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChrisRicketts &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh yea, leave your crank pulley (harmonic balancer) stock as well, as it serves a purpose in helping to keep the crank balanced.</TD></TR></TABLE>

chris theres nothing harmonically balancing about a little lip of rubber in there, at best, the stock pulley is (arguably) a "harmonic" dampener

i reccomend a custom ati fluidampr or talking to (OH NO!!!) rick solis about getting you a real harmonic balancer is thats the route you wanna go

 

The crank pulley is stock however has had the PAS part removed by a CNC shop so it is now alternator only. There is also a crank trigger wheel which has been bolted to the outside of the crank pulley (using a micrometer) to alloy me to run my DTA fast engine management system http://www.dta-fast.co.uk (S60) this uses a crank sensor from a ford. This has all been done by recommendation of my engine tuner. I was previously going to go with Hondata S300 but was advised against it due to setup time. If anyone would like to comment on the DTA fast unit I would appreciate the feedback

I shall stick with the stock pump gear but do you think any of the above info affect the balancing? The crank was balanced at the machine shop, how well I dont know but they are fairly well known and have been in the business a while. They were responsible for darton sleeving, pistons, rods, ACL bearings and balancing.

If there is no rubber washer/lip on my crank pulley is it worth finding a suitable O ring or plumbers washer just to stop the vibrating metal against metal?

Thanks for the replies

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

chris theres nothing harmonically balancing about a little lip of rubber in there, at best, the stock pulley is (arguably) a "harmonic" dampener

i reccomend a custom ati fluidampr or talking to (OH NO!!!) rick solis about getting you a real harmonic balancer is thats the route you wanna go</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok, you're right, it doesn't help to balance....because i guess if it did help to balance then the crank would have to be balanced with the pulley attached, but dampner yes. either way, i wouldn't change it unless you got a fluidampner to replace it with.

 

i can tell you for sure if your building the car for racing not show street half and half and you are loking to make serious competitive whpwith a h22 i would look into a external setup! the stock gear WILL FAIL!!! if you do a search you will see usually at that level (600-700whp)you mandatory have a aftermarket balancer ati,fluid,bdl,etc i personally use the ati made for my setup just cause it fits better.now as far as the balancing motor part,usually at that level of power i am sure you or your engine builder are well aware of balancing a motor so i eliminated that when i was doing my research on this whole oilpump thing .ive seen multiple amounts of h22 on the dyno with absolutly no probs with oil pump failure put that same exact setup and car on a set of 26" slicks and it is bound to break a gear ,the whole h series oil system design is terrible from the get go .i can only tell you from personal experience from motors i built my self to motors i had built by the best of the best in this industry (IMO)if ya want to ask more people with hads on h22 knowledge talk to pocketrocket also steveoaks he is a perfect example of the whole oil pump thing he ran the peterson a few seasons flawless on a h22 makeing 700-800whp he decided he wanted to run sfwd took the pump off and ran a oem pump and bam broke a gear with the same exact setup he ran no difference but oil pump. ati balancer on both setups,,same engine balanced,, blah blah all the same ,,now how do you think that happened

 

External is not allowed in SFWD/Turbo 4. That is why I will not run an external.

 

i said the same thing. but when you pop a motor due to oil pump failure and ruin a 4000 short block 3500 head 2000 turbo you will learn the leson if not the first time gaurenteed by the second time

 

I know... but again, properly balanced harmonics will definetely help to save gears. Yes other factors come into play... but until SFWD/Turbo4 allows externals I'll pass on running one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i reccomend a custom ati fluidampr or talking to (OH NO!!!) rick solis about getting you a real harmonic balancer is thats the route you wanna go</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey why would it have be a "custom" fluidampr? Is there something wrong with these http://www.fluidampr.com/HONDA.htm

Summit Racing (H22): http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

thanks,
Alberto


Modified by porkchop at 10:09 PM 9/5/2006