The car a couple of days ago started just fine, now when i try to start the car it has a week crank like a low battery, however when i give it some gas it gets more crank and more crank and then it finally starts? Could something be going out?

 

Weak crank, meaning slow crank ? Check the battery out, check the connections out.

 

will do i did once but ill make sure, i was having a little trouble with the alternator the week before , ill report back with any future trouble

 

Alternator might be the source of the problem

 

possibly going out, or belt issue, conductivity issue?

 

Have you checked anything yet?
Hows the battery? proper voltage? proper CCA?
Did you try using a friend/parents battery?
Are your battery terminals caked? are the terminal connections loose?

 

well its a brand new battery only used with my new swap which i have only drove about 15-20 miles max (still working out some issues here and there, no one mentions the small stuff about a b16 swap) i know that there not caked so i will check the terminals and if not that try another battery.

Kind of off the topic, would i be able to take the cable vss clip off my dx tranny and place it on my b16 tranny in place of the electric vss clip, or is it easier to just get a electric controlled instrument cluster

 

How to test


There are other test as well.
TESTING
Voltage Drop Test
NOTE: These tests will show the amount of voltage drop across the alternator output wire from the alternator output (B+) terminal to the battery positive post. They will also show the amount of voltage drop from the ground (-) terminal on the alternator.

A voltmeter with a 0–18 volt DC scale should be used for these tests. By repositioning the voltmeter test leads, the point of high resistance (voltage drop) can easily be found. Test points on the alternator can be reached by either removing the air cleaner housing or below by raising the vehicle.

Before starting the test, make sure the battery is in good condition and is fully charged. Check the conditions of the battery cables.
Start the engine, let it warm up to normal operating temperatures, then turn the engine OFF.
Connect an engine tachometer, following the manufacturer's directions.
Make sure the parking brake is fully engaged.
Start the engine, then place the blower on HIGH, and turn on the high beam headlamps and interior lamps.
Bring the engine speed up to 2,400 rpm and hold it there.
To test the ground (-) circuitry, perform the following:
Touch the negative lead of the voltmeter directly to the positive battery terminal.
Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the B+ output terminal stud on the alternator (NOT the terminal mounting nut). The voltage should be no higher than 0.6 volts. If the voltage is higher than 0.6 volts, touch the test lead to the terminal mounting stud nut, and then to the wiring connector. If the voltage is now below 0.6 volts, look for dirty, loose or poor connections at this point. A voltage drop test may be performed at each ground (-) connection in the circuit to locate the excessive resistance.
To test the positive (+) circuitry, perform the following:
Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter directly to the negative battery terminal.
Touch the negative lead of the voltmeter to the ground terminal stud on the alternator case (NOT the terminal mounting nut). The voltage should be no higher than 0.3 volts. If the voltage is higher than 0.3 volts, touch the test lead to the terminal mounting stud nut, and then to the wiring connector. If the voltage is now below 0.3 volts, look for dirty, loose or poor connections at this point. A voltage drop test may be performed at each positive (+) connection in the circuit to locate the excessive resistance.
This test can also be performed between the alternator case and the engine. If the test voltage is higher than 0.3 volts, check for corrosion at the alternator mounting points or loose alternator mounting.
Output Voltage Test
Before starting the test, make sure the battery is in good condition and is fully charged. Check the conditions of the battery cables.
Perform the voltage drop test to ensure clean and tight alternator/battery electrical connections.
Be sure the alternator drive belt is properly tensioned.
A volt/amp tester such as the VAT–40 or an equivalent, which is equipped with a battery load control (carbon pile rheostat), full field tester and an inductive-type pickup clamp (ammeter probe) is used for this test. Make sure to follows all directions supplied with the tester.
Start the engine and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature.
Connect the VAT–40 or equivalent and turn the selector switch to position 1 (starting). Make sure all electrical accessories and lights are turned OFF.
Set the parking brake, place the transmission in Park or Neutral, and start the engine. Operate the throttle and hold the engine at 3,000 rpm with all accessories in the off position, until the radiator cooling fan comes on. Then allow the engine to idle for 15 seconds.
Raise the engine speed to 2,000 rpm and check the voltage. If the voltage is less than 15.1 volts, go to the next step. If the voltage is greater than 15.1 volts, replace the alternator.
Allow the engine to idle with all electrical accessories turned off. Turn the selector switch on the VAT–40 or equivalent to position 2 (charging).
Remove the inductive pick-up and zero the ammeter.
Place the inductive pick-up over the B terminal wire from the alternator, making sure the arrow points away from the alternator.
Raise the engine speed to 2,000 rpm and read the voltage. If the voltage is 13.5 volts or greater, go to the next step. If the voltage is below 13.5 volts, replace the alternator.
Apply a load with the VAT–40 or equivalent until the battery voltage drops to between 12–13.5 volts. If the amperage output is 75 amps or more, the charging system is good. If the amperage output is below 75 amps, go to the next step.
WARNING
When performing the full field test, do not allow the voltage to exceed 18 volts as damage to the electrical system may occur.


Perform a full field test by attaching the full field probe from the VAT–40 or equivalent into the full field terminal inside the full field access hole on the back of the alternator. Hold the engine speed to 2,000 rpm, switch the field selector to the A (Ground) position, and check the amperage reading.

Another one I got from a GM manual
TESTING
Voltage Test
Make sure the engine is OFF, and turn the headlights on for 15–20 seconds to remove any surface charge from the battery.
Using a DVOM set to volts DC, probe across the battery terminals.
Measure the battery voltage.
Write down the voltage reading and proceed to the next test.
No-Load Test
Connect a tachometer to the engine.
CAUTION
Ensure that the transmission is in Park and the emergency brake is set. Blocking a wheel is optional and an added safety measure.


Turn off all electrical loads (radio, blower motor, wipers, etc.)
Start the engine and increase engine speed to approximately 1500 rpm.
Measure the voltage reading at the battery with the engine holding a steady 1500 rpm. Voltage should have raised at least 0.5 volts, but no more than 2.5 volts.
If the voltage does not go up more than 0.5 volts, the alternator is not charging. If the voltage goes up more than 2.5 volts, the alternator is overcharging.
NOTE: Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this book, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.


If the voltage is within specifications, proceed to the next test.
Load Test
With the engine running, turn on the blower motor and the high beams ( or other electrical accessories to place a load on the charging system).
Increase and hold engine speed to 2000 rpm.
Measure the voltage reading at the battery.
The voltage should increase at least 0.5 volts from the voltage test. If the voltage does not meet specifications, the charging system is malfunctioning.
NOTE: Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this book, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.

 

I cant guarantee it, but Im pretty sure the VSS are interchangable.
I'd just get a siR cluster and a converter unit, you'll have a cluster that goes up to 190mph. siR clusters are goin cheap one eBay these days.

Well, I'd try another battery. If it starts up fine, then it's simple.
Car wouldnt start b/c of low/dead battery.
Battery low/dead b/c the alternators not doin its jobn

 

thanks rc, well the reason i ask is because i already have the vss clips electric ( came with my b16) and the cable vss clip (came with my dx) i have a cable cluster so i thought i would just save some money

 

ok well i checked the terminals they are nice and tight as well as the battery is fully charged...

Its kinda weird when i put the key in and turn it onto the on position all the lights work, cd player kicks on. so i know that all of the connections are tight. Then I go to crank it over and it seems like it looses power and the more i give it gas the more power it gets back, is this right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philkehn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks rc, well the reason i ask is because i already have the vss clips electric ( came with my b16) and the cable vss clip (came with my dx) i have a cable cluster so i thought i would just save some money </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, your D series VSS will work in the B series cable tranny.

 

don't mean to jack your thread but does that also mean a b vss will work in a d tranny?

 

no prob, good question i need to run out to the junk yard to get one, OH and i fixed my starting problem wasnt the terminals but I had a loose wire