Ok, bit of background needed here... This car had been having a stalling issue... It would stall sometimes if you let your foot off the pedal all the way, and when you turn the ignition off, it would sputter a few times, firing a few times after it should have stopped. The radiator also developed a leak, and I've replaced that and the battery with no apparent problem.

I also sort of rebuilt the carburetor. I got some budget GP Sorensen rebuild kit, which I replaced everything I could see...the power valve boot, a few diaphrams, o-rings, gaskets, etc... The gasket surfaces were clean and all, and I also replaced the lower one and the mounting gasket. I also replaced the needle and seat, and I had a small issue with the float... The hinge could only be tapped out, which was an annoying task... I did so (in order to get the float out so I could get the needle). No problem there, until I tried to put the float back in... I tapped the hinge (just a metal pin) back in, and it bent slightly, cracking the hinge area of the float (not much, but anyway). I got it back out, and super-glued the little crack in the float, and I used a big metal paper clip instead and bent it so to prevent wiggling as much as possible. It is simply smaller in diameter, so I didn't have to address the tapping issue again. The carb, overall, didn't seem all that bad actually... I cleaned it, sprayed cleaner through the openings and it successfully came out the appropriate end. The only thing that seemed in definite need of replacement was the air horn gasket.

The choke opener is the only thing that puzzled me here... I have the factory service manual, and it says when you open the throttle completely, it is supposed to let the choke plate close completely, but when I put it back on there, I noticed it didn't quite...and it actually only closed completely BEFORE I opened the throttle, because the throttle arm was pressing against the little doodad that houses the spring which seems to return the choke plate.

Anyway, moving on... I got it back on there. I used multiple-colored paint markers to mark the hoses, so I'm pretty sure I hooked them all up correctly. I also replaced the secondary fuel filter. I'll get the first one, just haven't got to it yet. Anyhoo, the thing still is acting up. I'm wondering if someone can point me in the right direction of the cause. I still plan to go through adjustments and such, but help would be appreciated, as this is my first carburetor and I'm used to Caddys . It still really wants to stall. The first time, I was only able to get it started by spraying a bit of carb cleaner down the thing, and then keep it up with the pedal. After that, I managed to get it to start under its own power, but again, even after holding it for a couple minutes, it still wanted to stall. After warming it up, I could get it down to around 1200 rpm without it cutting out, but it would be sputtering...and it would give an occassional sputter even at higher rpm. If I try to put it in gear, it wants to stall even more...had to be held to well over 2000 rpm to even keep it running. This is also all with the air filter assembly top off. Does that need to be on in order for the vacuum system to work right? It seems like it to me, but I thought you could start it with it off at least....though it seems like the fast idle isn't engaged to start (it was before, I think). If that's it, there is definitely another problem though. It just seems like it's starving for fuel, but I'm not sure where to begin first. I'm going to do fuel pressure testing later, but if someone with more experience could lend a hand here, I'd be most grateful.

 

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