I was thinking of selling my b-series hatch soon, i want to ref the b18a obd-1 before i sell it. How much more cash can i get as opposed to no BAR paperwork?

 

ref the b18? BAR papers?

 

its a california thing, it sucks haha. im not sure if you can get any more for it. depends on the buyer, man.

 

maybe... MAYBE, 2.5. Depends on person. 3k for a b16a swap.

 

what about my rex with a b16 fresh swap, repainted and wire tucked engine bay with a west wing back bumper and flat back sprayed with a actual gravity feed

 

More? I don't know about that. Modified cars are typically worth less money. But you'll be able to legally transfer the title.

 

How much does it cost to bar a motor? anyway? besides all the parts you need to make it obd-1/2

 

Very little, less than $100 total.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philkehn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what about my rex with a b16 fresh swap, repainted and wire tucked engine bay with a west wing back bumper and flat back sprayed with a actual gravity feed </TD></TR></TABLE>

wtf? do u mean something different? just a WW back bumper?

bar certif. costs about ~50.

ghetto = less money.

 

i was being sarcastic im on a budget just waiting for the money to get the rest of the ww side and front before i spray I have a b16 and no big exhaust me as well hate ricers just a nice look and a little performance, and if you do modify a car you can get more money for it, you just have to go other places besides a dealership, try the kids just getting the license and their parents have money lol, I sold my hold hatch flat black rattle canned with a full body kit for 6000 lol it had a z6 with cx tranny and about 160000 miles, or if that post it on ebay theres always gonna be ricers out there

 

I tend to think about the question from a different point of view.

I wouldn't buy a car without the idea of it ending up being bar'd (able to pass a smog check here in Calif).

As a result, if I was looking to buy a car that had a swap (and wasn't already bar'd), I'd be adding up the cost of what it would take and then deduct it from the asking price. The price adds up fast when you think about having to have things like the specific ECU for that engine. How about time spent finding a air intake that is legal. Although not costly, time spent is money. Does it have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator? That would have to be removed and replaced with a stock one. Even things like an aftermarket fuel rail would have to be replaced with a stock one.

I know how the prices add up due to having bar'd my B18C in 89 hatchback.

I voted for "more than $600

Wes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philkehn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was being sarcastic im on a budget just waiting for the money to get the rest of the ww side and front before i spray I have a b16 and no big exhaust me as well hate ricers just a nice look and a little performance, and if you do modify a car you can get more money for it, you just have to go other places besides a dealership, try the kids just getting the license and their parents have money lol, I sold my hold hatch flat black rattle canned with a full body kit for 6000 lol it had a z6 with cx tranny and about 160000 miles, or if that post it on ebay theres always gonna be ricers out there</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha, you don't got to lie to kick it bro . j/k.

 

I completely agree with Wes. Are you guys for real? $100? Getting your **** BAR'd is not easy. Ask the guys who have actually done it. For example, for a B16A you need to have all the emission control of the Del Sol VTEC, go OBD1 with P28 (or whichever ECU it uses), cat and have it pass emissions which includes the visual, vacuum routing, etc. If it could easily be done, everyone would have a BAR'd Honda and you wouldn't see so many for sale.

Very few people wanna buy a car they can't even smog, fewer people have hookups, fewer people wanna risk getting pulled over, having their hood popped and sent to a ref. This has to be considered when buying a car. It's a big hassle and some people have more money than time. Buying a car that's already BAR'd takes all that out of the equation.

 

i'm going to go get my car bar'd tomorrow it cost 38 bucks for the inspection. 91 hatch obd-1 b18b

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SLR ef9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm going to go get my car bar'd tomorrow it cost 38 bucks for the inspection. 91 hatch obd-1 b18b</TD></TR></TABLE>

plus another 10-15 for a certificate .

 

I voted for nothing.. Reason being that a majority of the CRXes sold out here are sold without smog, and they have no problem selling. If you're going to go through all that hassle of seeing the Ref, just to sell the car, I wouldn't call that very cost-effective for your time.

 

i would pay alot more for a BAR'd b16a in 88-91 civic/crx.....finding that USDM p30 is bitch. Luckily i can find obd-1 pr4 ECU's all day long.

 

honestly it would be nice if you bar'd the hatch but you don't have to. You can tell the buyer that it is his/her responsibility to smog not your's. I don't think it will make that much of a difference in selling price, I mean you said yourself it will only cost you $100 to get ref'd why couldn't the buyer do it, and if the buyer know's anything about swaps they will say the same thing. Wow, only $100 though, I had to spend so much more to convert my b16.

 

Sold to the right private party (read: sucker) pretty much anything can be sold for more than it's actually worth. Perceived value versus actual value. Go to eBay and look up race cars for sale. I saw a $100k+ dragster with a $42k BIN price. By prevailing logic, that car should be selling for close to $200k due to the cost of part and time spent on building it. That's just one example and I'm sure someone will post a story about their brother's, sister's, uncle's, newphew's, cousin's, neighbor who sold a $500 car for $5k. That takes us back to suckers who don't know what they're buying.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Reelizmpro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I completely agree with Wes. Are you guys for real? $100? Getting your **** BAR'd is not easy. Ask the guys who have actually done it. For example, for a B16A you need to have all the emission control of the Del Sol VTEC, go OBD1 with P28 (or whichever ECU it uses), cat and have it pass emissions which includes the visual, vacuum routing, etc. If it could easily be done, everyone would have a BAR'd Honda and you wouldn't see so many for sale.

Very few people wanna buy a car they can't even smog, fewer people have hookups, fewer people wanna risk getting pulled over, having their hood popped and sent to a ref. This has to be considered when buying a car. It's a big hassle and some people have more money than time. Buying a car that's already BAR'd takes all that out of the equation. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Perhaps you both missed the part where dude said, "without adding in the price of parts"? Personally, I know how much it costs because I spend $500 on my OBD conversion.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by west nile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">honestly it would be nice if you bar'd the hatch but you don't have to. You can tell the buyer that it is his/her responsibility to smog not your's. I don't think it will make that much of a difference in selling price, I mean you said yourself it will only cost you $100 to get ref'd why couldn't the buyer do it, and if the buyer know's anything about swaps they will say the same thing. Wow, only $100 though, I had to spend so much more to convert my b16.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You have to either provide the buyer with a current smog certificate or non-op the vehicle to transfer the title legally. You might get lucky at the DMV and they'll let you, the buyer, smog it but it's usually a tremendous hassle.

 

Maybe I'm blind (or it was changed), but I don't see any comment on "without adding in the price of parts".

Wes

 

Your typical buyer out here in CA will care more if the swap is "clean", if the car is "JDM" "yo" than for a BAR sticker. So although going through the ref may be an investment if you want to keep the car legal and be able to smog it, the OP will be able to add much more to the resell value more by adding useless JDM or off-JDM accessories.

 

its not just 100 bucks and your done. you need to have all the right parts on that thing. People think its so easy to go to a ref and have it pass just like that. i beleave you need to run the entire under dash harness and all that **** takes time and money. The refs are not your friends and will not let **** get by them. They are very **** when it comes to this ****.

 

so what i gather so far is this from my poll......


vehicle with no smog certificate = vehicle with smog certificate?


i never realized so many people would buy cars with out proper smog certification in Cali. This is the land of traveling smog check points after all.

 

One of the main reasons I purchased my rex was cause it is bar'ed. I was already hesitant on buying a swapped car, but the fact that it was bar'ed helped a whole lot with my decision.

I'm not sure if the value of your car will go up if you bar it, but it would definitely be easier to sell, specially in CA.

Just my two cents!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wes V &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe I'm blind (or it was changed), but I don't see any comment on "without adding in the price of parts".

Wes </TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiR Inspired ED7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much does it cost to bar a motor? anyway? besides all the parts you need to make it obd-1/2</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, I do realze that isn't the OP. And like I said, I have $500 invested in my own OBDI conversion so I know that it isn't cheap. I just accept it as part of the swap. And as I took the OP's question, it was how much to charge for the addition of the "BAR paperwork". It took that as meaning he's already done an OBDI conversion for the good of his OBDI motor and it priced as such.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cr-x-91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its not just 100 bucks and your done. you need to have all the right parts on that thing. People think its so easy to go to a ref and have it pass just like that. i beleave you need to run the entire under dash harness and all that **** takes time and money. The refs are not your friends and will not let **** get by them. They are very **** when it comes to this ****.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You either got an everyday ******* or you rubbed him the wrong way. I know a lot of people who have BAR'd OBDI conversions with conversion harnesses. And you do have to keep in mind that these guys aren't here to be our friends, they're here to do their jobs. You have to respect that. If you're cool and respectful with them they'll generally return the favor. If you try to get **** past them, you're going to make them mad and they're going to remember you the next time you come in.