Here's the situation. If you had $1,500 how would you spend it on your 99Si.
I have posted forums for specific parts and have read a lot of good info. But I am still confused on how to spend my money. So instead of posting forums on specific parts i figure i will post on an entire setup. So I want to ask all of you how you would spend it. I have a 99 EBP Si, mostly stock except for skunk2 coilovers (which i am pretty happy with). I have wanted to start modding for a long time but fealt i have rushed into in. So i am seeking advice.
Only $1,500 to spend
Must be CA SMOG LEGAL
no turbo (only because i dont think i can afford and maintane for $1,500 otherwise i'm all over that)
Keep B16a
Looking for MOST POWER under these guidlines
If you'd like suggest suspension as well.
please be as specific as possible...I.E. name brands, modifications needed...ect.

I have done reaserch on specific parts but am interested in hearing about whole setups, what they cost, power output, reliability, and CA Legal issues.....when i think of all of this I'm like ahhh!!!!

Any help would be greatly appreciated. So would links on other B16a builds.

THANK YOU,
NEWBIE

 

You're not gonna get anywhere with 1500 and playing by the rules.

 

lol yup DC4Kid is right. i stopped counting after like 8 thousand into my build project....but hey its only money.

also, for cali smog - either you choose from a few smog legal parts that are slightly better than stock, or you take the risk and drive with illegal mods, and put your stock parts back on every 2 years for smog.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ( o )( o ) &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol yup DC4Kid is right. i stopped counting after like 8 thousand into my build project....but hey its only money.

also, for cali smog - either you choose from a few smog legal parts that are slightly better than stock, or you take the risk and drive with illegal mods, and put your stock parts back on every 2 years for smog.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
or you don't take any of the stuff off & pay $150-$250 to get your car smoged every 2 years

 

ok so u want to speed,obey emissions and be cheap i got ya.

1. get a cheap auto zone intake it wont pass $50
emissions but you can swap that out easy.

2.get dsm injectors and resistor box and vafc. $400-500

3.get one of those electric exhuast cut outs. $100

4.get a zex or venom nawz system. $600

5.strip that bitch down. do u really need a dash free

thats a cheap set up. if ur gonna hit the track or the local races (which i dont condone) pop in the cheap intake,strip it down and get the nawz in there. hit the scene open the cut out and squeeze the nawz. go home return to stock pass emissions. and best of all you will still have 200 left over for stickers yay

 

check my sig. within your price range. and youl still have some left over!

 

THank you for all the replies.....

I was thinking maybe something like this

Passwordjdm intake $200
greddy 4-1 ss Headers $ 350
(already have exhaust) Borla
ctr intake cam $250 (and/ or new cams all together)
B&m short shifter (with factory bend) & bushings $70.
am i missing something....?

 

just keep saving and be patient i would keep saving untill you have enough for some decent cams and header at least

 

i dont know if the password jdm intake is legal but it will give you as much hp as the cheap auto zone one.

i dont know if the header is legal but for 200 more you could have an instant 75 hp

since u have exhuast u wont need the cut out so that leaves you with 300 bucks left if u save it add another 200-250 bucks and u can get a nice cam skunk stage1 and that b&m shifter.

but then again it ur money im just trying to help u go fast for cheap

 

i would put together your own intake....
-generic 3 inch funnel
-velocity stack
-K&N filter
prolly cost around 150 to put it together

watever header you can afford within the legal limits ( which wont net you too much power) (guessing around 200 for a used header)

hi flow cat and exhaust-used is your bestfriend at this point- i'm thinking a good flowing exhuast system and used hi-flow cat would run $350 or under

also a used set of cams and cam gears would help you to use the rest of your money for a piggy back tuning computer

spend the rest on a tune!

I personally think thats the best/cheapest way to pull power on ur budget

good luck

 

Those are some good ideas^^. I would also look into a MF 4.9FD or 3-4-5 gear set for your tranny.

 

is the OEM typr R header legal? id go for that and dont spend alot of money on a intake. get a good folter and a v-stack. after that type R cams maybe thinner head gasket... and some form of tuning..

 

Intake with a velocity stack, Edlebrock pro-flow header, Pro-fab, rage, or a used RMF,smsp,DTR header. full exhaust. hondata. 75-100wet shot tuned. The rest use for your transmission, clutch, flywheel, Final, oem itr lsd if your budget permits. IMO thats the best bang for the buck as far as E.T's and Mph go in the 1320.

 

Cams, valve train, header, ported intake manifold, Hondata (or Crome), tuning.

 

a lot of these ideas sound great. now i quess it's a question of picking and choosing. keep them coming. this is really helping me out with ideas

 

Run a smog legal header & exhaust.
Then run a chipped ecu until it comes time to pass smog, then plugin your factory unit.

http://phearable.net/tech/efibeginnerguide.html

 

Everyone here has posted some good ideals.

here's what I would do

prototype or bpi v-stack
cheapo intake pipe
KN rf1048 filter
rage header ver 1
blox A cams (maintain stock rev limit) better than ctr/itr
a good tune

~150 to 160 whp

 

$ 1,500 not enough to buy good cams & header????????

 

Turbo :-P

 

1500 won't get you much.

nitrous kit with rpm activation, bottle warmer, and a nicer fuel pump. a 75 shot and your set.

 

Plus I have read in Dsport mag that a highflow cat over a stock cat only nets like 2 whp maybe so not worth it to risk emissions.

Otherwise I scored type r cams for 250.00 shipped. ITR valvetrain 130.00 because I highly suggest that you upgrade exhaust to dual valve springs for bigger lift.

Chipped ecu under 200.00, ctr pistons 200 ish maybe more cometic head gasket 91 or 93 pump gas and the rest on a very good tune. That should net you whp that you are seeking.

You could buy crome pro with chip burning ability and widebands are fairly reasonable anymore and you could manage alot of your own stuff.

That should raise compression a little to stay NA. Down the road you could port intake manifold with matching TB for better breathing.

The rest I would go with suspension and ride quality. Also make sure everything is running right. That is the best first mod you can do for your car. Change all fluids, plugs, wires, seals, gaskets, timing belt water pump.

Hope some of this helps but I am not sure if you have emissions and this will work with that.

I personally live in a state with 0 emissions and love it.

 

buy this

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1671125

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Delano5050 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you had $1,500 how would you spend it on your 99Si.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wouldn't.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am still confused on how to spend my money.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If it's such a problem, then give it to me and I'll spend it for you.

 

nos is for noobs and/or ricers. go get yourself this:

pooped ls block $150
rods resized w/ arp rod bolts $150
ctr pistons $300
machine work $250
new bearings $100
ge vtec kit $200
ctr intake cam $250
p28 ecu w/ ls vtec tune $200
cheap *** intake and othe misc $100
sell your b16 block -$200

total $1,500

this is the best bang for your buck. it's all about low end torque for daily driven fun factor. don't spend $1,500 on stupid bolt on parts that won't give you power you can feel. 90% of daily driving is in the low end, so why spend all that money trying to extract 10hp in the 6,000+ rpm range that you rarely get to see. ls/vtec is straight up power that is instantly noticeable. in fact, i'd rather have an ls longblock than a full b16. torque torque baby. personally, if i had a b16, i'd just pick up a ebay turbo kit and push low boost, maybe 6 psi. just get yourself a good tune and proper maintenance and it will be reliable.

 

final drive + lsd

NO SMOG ISSUES